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Tricks of the Trade: Make an Arc Drawing Jig

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - 6 hours 29 min ago

Over the years, we have amassed a huge collection of handy tips from the Tricks of the Trade column in our magazine. We recently started to film some of these tricks in the Pop Wood shop to give a little personality to the pages that you are so familiar with. Our hope is to bring these great tips to our online audience in a new way. If you have a […]

The post Tricks of the Trade: Make an Arc Drawing Jig appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

turkey day doings........

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 2:55pm
I was checking my LN honing guides blocks to see what I had at oh dark thirty this AM. I have three LN tools that require angled guide blocks, a set of L&R skew chisels and the irons for the 98 & 99 side rabbet planes. I recently got the 140 skew block plane and that requires an 18° angle guide block. Turns out the angled guide blocks I have are 30° and will work fine for the irons in the 98 & 99 but not the 140. I think the 30° will work with the skew chisels too but I will have to check that.

When I was looking the guide blocks up on the LN site I noticed that they don't offer the skew chisels I have anymore. Another LN tool that was dropped that I wasn't aware of.  I also couldn't remember which tool I had bought the angled guides for. I thought it was for the skew chisels but there is no longer any info on them on the LN site. I had to measure the guides I have to see what I had and they are 30°. I will need to get the 18° right hand ones for the 140.

I have to finish this for xmas
I haven't been working on this because I have been thinking about how to best secure the bottom to this. Today I came up with something.

the lid and bottom stock
The stock is the same as what I used to make the box and I'm not liking it for either. The long grain runs at 90° to the long sides which means the expansion and contraction will go against the long sides too. I can't simply glue this onto the box and let it go at that. I couldn't think of way to allow for that and keep it secure in a way I liked.

The lid isn't that big of a problem because I plan on putting keepers at the ends to hold it in place. Expansion and contraction isn't a problem with the lid.

one more consideration
I can easily bend a cup in this about a 1/2" with my fingers. The grain should be running in the long direction, not the short one like I have here. That makes it not too strong and it could easily be split.

the solution
I am going to glue an oversized piece of 6mm plywood to the bottom. Another thing I look at here is the gap at the half pins. The tighter ones become the top. Gappy ones like these, are hidden under the bottom.

switch to poplar for the lid
I like the grain direction of the poplar much more than the pine's direction. This lid will be stronger and better to mold a profile on the edges.

Had a mind fart and forgot to put a backer on the exit side. Poplar likes to blowout without a backer to stop it.

what I should have done first
I am hoping here that when I mold the long grain edge that I will plane away the blowout.

I wasn't lucky this time
That is an ugly, big divot on a visible corner. This is too large to try and blend it by sanding.

lid #2
I had to plane a bit of cup and bow out first.

much better results this time with the backer in place
worth trying
I set the marking gauge to the wall on this first one I molded and then marked this side. In retrospect, I should have done it with the first one by setting it off the first lid. Duh.

it worked
I got a lot less fuzzies on this run. I noticed that my gauge line was too far inboard and the molding plane didn't remove it.

first one is on top
The long grain on both is good but on my second lid the end grain edges came out cleaner. The lid on top I sanded the end grain edges and the second lid is off the plane. The first lid won't go to waste and I'll save it for a workshop box down the line.

stock for the base
I need to hide the plywood bottom and I'll do that by making a base for it. I am using the same molded edge on it that I used on the lid. I'll run the mold on one, cut it off, and repeat.

I was able to get six pieces
made a rabbet on all six
The rabbet will be used to capture the base on the box. It will set it at the same place all the way around it. Eagle eye readers will say it is upside down but it isn't. If I put the rabbet from the top down (where it normally would be) it would have eaten into the molded edge making it too thin.

view down from the top
To my eye it would look like crap if there was a rabbet on the top. I think this molded edge will present better if it is off of the box this amount.

how the rabbet will be used
I will glue a scrap in the rabbet and the box will be glued to that.

worked on my new squares
I tried both ways of squaring the square up. The engineer square is a good standard to check and set the square against. But it has a thin blade and it is difficult to get the two of them aligned to get a reading. I used the tried and true two lines drawn on a board.

fixing the 12" square
It was very tempting to take just one more swipe but I avoided doing that. I am using my 12" Woodpecker square to fix this one and I have the square positioned in the vise so that I can check it without having to remove it.

it took some time to complete
I only took two swipes with the file and checked it. Even though I felt like I could take more than two, I forced myself to stick to two only. After I got done with this using the Woodpecker square, I doubled checked the results by drawing lines.

thought of this too late
This went a long way with stabilizing the toe end of the blade when I filed that area. I fixed 4 squares and I used this on two of them. I thought of another thing that would have helped too. A shallow saw kerf for the blade to sit here would have helped too.

the last &%@&())(^%#@^*$ one
This one kicked my arse and laughed at me the whole time. If I hadn't paid so much for this I would have given it flying lessons during the first 20 minutes I spent I trying to fix it. I see-sawed back and forth with this one. The heel would be high and I would knock it down and the toe would be high. I would knock that down and I would have a hump. I would remove the hump only to start all over again with the heel being high again.

My stubbornness kicked in and I wasn't letting this win. It took me more than 45 minutes to get the inside and outside edges square. The last check I did was to make multiple lines to verify I was square. The upside is I got all of my squares, square now.

got the saw plates cleaned and shiny
I would have started the saw till but I don't have any stock. The saws can be cleaned up at anytime but since I couldn't do the till, I worked on them.

one handle stripped and rough sanded
Quit the shop here because I am the cook for T-day. It will be just my wife and I this year but maybe next year we'll do something with one or both of the girls. It is hard now that they both live several states away from us.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was Frank Willis?
answer - the security guard who caught the Watergate burglars

Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 3: No-Kill ‘Mutton’ Tallow

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 1:11pm

Hand-tool woodworkers love mutton tallow as a lubricant for saws, auger bits and the soles of our handplanes. A smidge of the stuff will make your tool slide easier – and your shop will smell like lambchops. But because of animal-rights concerns, mutton tallow is shunned by some woodworkers. (They already shun paraffin because it is made by Big Oil.) In 2016, a start-up corporation tried to make mutton tallow […]

The post Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 3: No-Kill ‘Mutton’ Tallow appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

A Once in a Lifetime Deal

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 10:45am

Every few years I get a deal of a lifetime when buying tools. Many years ago, I bought my 15″ Powermatic planer from a company going out of business for $700. I bought my Contractor SawStop table saw from SawStop corporate through Pop Wood for $1000, and yesterday, I bought a six piece Porter Cable combo kit for $25.00.


As you may know, I’m a sales rep for Oldcastle selling patio block, mulch and soon composite decking to Lowe’s and Home Depot. While visiting one of my stores yesterday, I walked in the back of the store by receiving to talk to the RTM clerk to see if there were any credits I needed to give for broken patio block. While back there, I saw a Porter Cable tool bag full of tools lying on the floor and asked the RTM clerk what they were doing back there. She told me that it was a return that the customer said the batteries wouldn’t hold a charge. Knowing that Lowe’s will take back anything no questions asked, the first thing that came to my mind was a customer buying a tool, using it to do a job, then returning it to get his money back.

She asked me if I wanted to buy it so I said “sure”. She asked me what I would give for them so I said $20.00. She said she’ll call the manager to see if that would be okay. I told her before I buy them, I wanted to make sure that my batteries would work on the tools. I’ve been using the same drill and jigsaw from the same set for a few years now, so I was hopeful my batteries would indeed be compatible. I went to my car to grab my tool bag while she called the manager to make the deal happen. When I returned, she said “what about $25.00”. I said fine and hooked up my battery to the all the tools to make sure they functioned. I took the bag and walked up to customer service to buy the tools. I couldn’t believe it. I just bought a $300 combo set for $25.00. I didn’t care that the tools were a little beaten up. Almost all of my hand tools I buy are used. Many from a hundred years ago.


When I got home, I laid the tools on my bench to see what I got. A drill, an impact drill, a sawsall, circular saw, multi tool, flashlight, and a battery power checker with USB ports. I took the battery it came with and charged it up. It works perfectly.


Why the customer returned the tools is anybody’s guess. There is one battery missing from the set, so it may be the guy wanted a free battery so he simply didn’t put it back in the bag when he returned it. I don’t care. I’m just glad as hell I got the deal of the year. Happy Thanksgiving!


Strykebenken på Øystad i Suldal

Norsk Skottbenk Union - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 10:40am

Studentane på tradisjonelt bygghandverk på NTNU har i tradisjonsfaglig fordypning i oppgåve å finne, registrere og måle opp ein lokal skottbenk frå sitt område. Student og medlem i unionen, Sven Hoftun, har posta sitt oppgåvesvar på bloggen med oppmåling av strykebenken i Hoftun. Etter han posta kom det inn spørsmål om korleis kilane kan ha sett ut og Sven svarar at det blir posta om ein tilsvarande benk frå same område som også har kilane bevart. Her følgjer tekst og dokumentasjon frå student Kjell Gunnar Haraldseid på Ryfylkemuseet.

Strykebenken på Øystad i SuldalStrykebenken på Øystad i Suldal. Foto: Kjell Gunnar Haraldseid

På garden Øystad i Suldal, Rogaland hadde de stående en strykebenk, lengde 319 cm, høyde cm 75 med originale kiler. Bukkane er laga av furu og alle delene er grovt tilhogde med øks, det er noe vannkant på enkelte deler. Stavene er 75 cm høye og blir bundet sammen med tverrbord som er felt inn i stavene med svalehale og spikret. Alle fellingene er grovt utført og ingen er helt like. Den ene foten har en tverrfot som har vært spikret i golvet.

StrykebenkStrykebenken sett fra enden med kilen på plass. Det er slått på et bord på begge bukkene for å gjøre kilegangen mindre. Foto: Kjell Gunnar Haraldseid

Langbordene er og laget i furu og har høvlet innside og topp men ellers grov overflate. På enden av langbordene kan man se spor etter bruk av øks. Det faste langbordet har en dimensjon på 3190 mm lengde, høyde 170 mm og tykkelse 25 mm. Det løse langbordet er likt bortsett ifra høyden som er 185 mm.

LangbordSpor etter felling eller kapping med øks. Foto: Kjell Gunnar Haraldseid Fast langbordDet faste langbordet er ikke felt inn i staven men står på fot slik som det løse og er festet i staven med spiker. Foto: Kjell Gunnar Haraldseid FotTverrfot enkelt innfelt og grovt tilhogd mellom stavene. KilerKilene er av furu, grovt laga og har noe vannkant og ulik lengde.

Arbeidshøyden på strykebenken er 75 cm og det er rundt 5 cm lavere enn det som vi finner på de andre benkene her i Suldal. Høyden gjør at man kommer godt over høvelen og får ført kreftene ned i arbeidsstykket. Lengden på benken gjør at man kan høvle 5 alna bord og ha litt lenge igjen på benken.

StrykebenkenStrykebenken montert


Categories: Hand Tools

Enter Woodworking Here!

Paul Sellers - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 8:27am

You want to start out in woodworking, or you’ve taken the first few steps. Whether that’s with hand tools or machines and you think you must have all things in place before you get started seriously. You know, 20 by 20 workshop, that perfect workbench everyone raves about, shelves and cupboards stuffed and stacked with […]

Read the full post Enter Woodworking Here! on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 2: Tape Dispenser

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 5:39am

You might think I’m kidding. I am absolutely not. This year, a tape dispenser for my blue tape is the nicest thing I’ve added to my shop. Like many woodworkers, I use blue painter’s tape for many tasks, from taping down small repairs to marking out joinery to shimming things square. For years I simply pulled it off the roll. You know the drill: Find the end of the tape, […]

The post Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 2: Tape Dispenser appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

The 2017 Anarchist’s Gift Guide Has Begun

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 5:01am


When my wife asks me what I want for Christmas, I say the same thing every year: Please do not get me anything. Nothing. I do not want a single dang thing.

I know, however, that there are times where you can’t stop your loved ones from getting you something during the holidays. And that is what this “gift guide” is for. It is a list of small things – usually very inexpensive – that will make your shop time a little nicer.

Here is a list of manufacturers who sponsor this gift guide:




Yup. Most “gift guides” are affiliate programs in disguise. Or they are sponsored content that seeks to offload goods that haven’t sold well enough this year.

All the items in this gift guide are things I’ve bought. With my own money.

One more thing: Since we started Crucible Tool, I have stopped writing tool reviews. I know this gift guide blurs the line a bit. I’m sure I could type some rationalization for this, but instead I’ll just ask the naysayers to take up a new hobby instead.

The gift guide begins here.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Great American Furniture

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 3:18am
Great American Furniture table of contents

I don’t know about you, but Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday – it’s all about the food and mostly free of consumerism…except, of course, for the “Black Friday” sales that start at crazy hours… I will not be at any of those sales. I will be sitting around a table I built (in the one dining chair I’ve built) having a great time with friends and eating what I hope is […]

The post Great American Furniture appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

gobble, gobble.......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 11/23/2017 - 2:18am
Happy Thanksgiving to all who hail from the states. Canada already had their thanksgiving day last month and I'm not sure about the rest of the world. I worked with an english guy for 7 years at my last job. He never understood our holidays, with thanksgiving being the worse for him to understand. Xmas was ok, but Labor Day and Memorial day were two others he didn't get. He thought Memorial day was redundant because of Veterans Day. If any other country has a Thanksgiving Day, I hope you have/had a happy one.

added two more to my herd of squares
I got a 8" and a 3" square and I think I'm calling it done for now. I am going to stop looking for a 15" one until after the new year rolls in. If I see one before then I'll buy it but I won't be actively looking for one.

my new to me 8" square, ain't 8 inches
The 3" one (which is a Stanley) is 3".

the upright ones need work
The 12" on the outside is slightly out. The 3" one, which I checked with my 6" engineer square, is off both on the inside and the outside.

I forgot my 6" Disston
I have other things I want to attend to first before I fix these squares. I'll keep them here until I get to them.

scraped the paint on the frog seat
I wanted to scrape this before it has a chance to really set and stick. It is dry to the touch but I'll wait until the weekend before I put it together. I still have to finish working on the chipbreaker and sharpening the iron.

wasn't expecting the box it came in
he said he only used it about 4 times
it has it's own unique personality
The angled rip cuts weren't too too bad to do. Starting the cut wasn't as easy as with my LN dovetail saw but each saw has it's quirks you have to get to know. The crosscut was especially hard for me to start on both of the half pins.

no other problems
Other than getting used to starting the cut, I saw no other particular hiccups with this saw. I especially like the weight distribution on this saw. To me felt almost neutral.

ready to check my magnet attraction
 I opened and closed the till several times and I did my idiot looking shaking of it also. I didn't hear nor feel anything rattling around in here.

that is where two magnets are
Those blacks spots must have a little metal dust in them.

these two are ok and passed all the tests
the next two passed all tests too
Four squares down and two to go.

15" square failed
 I can open and close the till and the 15" will behave and stay in it's holder. It won't pass even 1/2 a shake before it is rattling around in the inside.

I have one more 3/8 magnet for this
This square is heavy and I thought it would pop off on the slam the lid test but it didn't. One thing I will do with this is add a finger access cutout at both of the top corners. That will help to pop this off of the magnets.

12" did a bit better
It took 3 shakes before the 12" let go and started to rattle around in the box. This will need another magnet to help secure it. I ordered 10 more 1/2" magnets from Lee Valley today. The 1/2" magnets are about $2 each and one 3/4" is $9. Now that I have done this test, I'm thinking that I should have gotten at least one 3/4" magnet.

flushed up the front
this will be it's new home
I have a couple box latches coming in with the  magnets. I got two for just in case but I think I'll be ok with one.

got my saws out for figuring the size of till for them
My longest saw is a roughly 24" long, from the top horn to the toe.

nested together
This is the proposed way that I will stow the saws in the till. As they are here the width is less than 5". I'll have to add a few inches to that for the holders for the saws.

I love the fit and feel of this handle
the LN saw has a looser fit
My hand fills the Lee Valley handle without an atom of wasted space. It is better than a glove fit and feels unbelievably good in my hand. The Lee Valley handle is definitely a wow and maybe an extra loud whoopee thrown in too. I think the Lee Valley saw would be absolutely perfect if the LN plate was substituted for the Lee Valley one.

the look pretty similar but the LV handle gets a bucketful of gold stars IMO
rough ID measurements for the saw till
I haven't come up with a design for this yet. I'm pretty sure that it'll have a lid and the saws will go in and lift out through the top. It won't be a book like till like I made for the squares.

the handle is reluctant to come off
no mistaking that this is walnut (it doesn't look like rosewood)
handle came off the second one easier
I don't know what kind of wood this is. My first guess was beech.

my second guess was apple
My third one was I don't have a clue. It doesn't look like the beech I have in my stash. I don't have any apple wood pics in my wood book. It doesn't even mention apple at all. It also doesn't look like the pear wood which I do have a pic of. In the end it doesn't matter. I will strip and refinish both handles regardless of the species. I will clean the saw plates and try to raise a bit of shine on them too.

the finish isn't shellac
I rubbed a towel wet with alcohol on both handles and got nothing. It cleaned up both but it had no effect on the finish at all. I don't have any lacquer thinner so I can't check for it being lacquer. But that is what I suspect the finish probably is.

this plate has a lot of etch to it
All I can make out on it is 'New Bedford Mass' as the bottom line. I'm thinking maybe it is a hardware store saw?

this etch is even fainter
I can barely discern the Disston Saw symbol on this plate. No matter as I don't care about the etch that much but I was curious about what I could pick out.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Convicted murderer William Kemmler, was noted for what?
answer - the first person to be legally electrocuted 1890

H. O. Hickok Bookbinders Machinery Bookbinders Tools Trade Catalog

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 11:17pm

Letterhead: W. O. HICKOCK. Eagle Works, Improved Book Binders Machinery, iron and Brass Foundries, Wood Turning, Ruling Machines, Steam and Gas Fitters Supplies, General Machine Works, Keystone Cider Mills, Keystone Feed Cutters. Harrisburg, Pa, U. S. A., April 16, 1886. To: New Urbana Wine Co... "Gentlemen: Have you old Dry Catawba wines and at what price per two or three dozen quarts." Apparently this was a thirsty bunch. W.O. Hickock is still in business as a machinery manufacturer.


Hickok Bookbinders' Machinery: Bookbinders' Tools. Catalogue No. 88. The W. O. Hickock Manufacturing Company, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, U.S.A. c1920. From the famous Hickok Mfg. company, makers of bookbinding equpment since 1844, comes a rare catalog. Judging by the early electric tools, I'm guessing at a c1920 date, but it could be a bit earlier. Nearly out of business at this point, their products remain sought after by bookbinders.

Download HickokCatc1920


Categories: Hand Tools

Jos Harm Album Van Schaven En Gereedschappen c1900 Trade Catalog

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 11:09pm

Trade Catalog: ALBUM VAN SCHAVEN EN GEREEDSCHAPPEN: Rabots et Outils - Planes and Different Tools: JOS. HARM, Vijzelstraat 120, Amsterdam. c1900. (judging by the Stanley Planes offered). This catalog of planes, braces, saws and bench equipment is tri-lingual in Dutch, French and English. Tools shown are primarily Dutch, followed by select items from the Stanley line, then a few French and British style planes. There is a small selection of Dutch style braces and saws, along with replacement handles and bench equipment.

This catalog was clearly published for the Dutch trade, as the Dutch planes are not translated. The French, British and Stanley tools are translated in varying sets. Of particular interest are the varieties of Dutch planes and braces that continue styles often listed as from the 18th Century. Needless to say, this is one of my favorite catalogs.

Download Josharm1900cat


Categories: Hand Tools

C. Hammond & Son, Edge Tools And Hammers Trade Catalog 1910

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:52pm

Trade Catalog: C. HAMMOND & SON, EDGE TOOLS AND HAMMERS, OGONTZ, PA., U.S.A., 1910. A full line catalog of the hatchets, axes, and hammers offered by the famous C. Hammond & Son. If you find a Hammond hammer, hang on to it and use it. They made some of the nicest hammers ever.

Download Chammond1910CA


Categories: Hand Tools

H. Hale, Plane Manufacturer 1854

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:47pm

Manuscript: Correspondence

H.Hale, Plane Manufacturers, to The Providence Tool Col, 1854.

New Haven, Apil 7, 1854

Providence Tool Co.


We are in want of some Plane Irons Which we should like to have you send to us providing you will sell them low as other makers

Please send us list of prices by return of mail

And, Oblige

H. Hale Co
Plane Manufacturers
Corner St. John & Art.... St.

 Apl. 8


Categories: Hand Tools

John Graham & Co. Trade Catalog 1920 Witherby Taintor Coes etc.

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:43pm

Trade Catalog: JOHN H. GRAHAM & CO. FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY CATALOGUE, ESTABLISHED 1870. C1920. 112 Chambers Street and 95 Reade Street, New York, U.S.A.. Also offices world wide. Interesting expandable catalog containing a variety of sections covering hand tools, shop equipment, gardening, hardware, etc. For this PDF, I have included only those sections pertaining to tools. To wit: Snell Mfg. Co (auger bits and related tools), Winsted Edge Tool Works (seems to be a full line of tools), Coes Wrench Co., Taintor Mfg. Co, Torrington Co.. Seymour Smith & Sons, L.S Watson Mfg. Co., G.W. Griffin Co., Rock Island Mfg. Co., Asst'd Saw Vises, American Grinder Mfg. Co., Many-Use Oil Co.

Download JgrahamCat1920


Categories: Hand Tools

Goodnow & Wightman, Tools & Hardware, Boston Ma 1883

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:37pm

Letterhead: GOODNOW & WIGHTMAN, Tools & Hardware. 176 Washington Street, Boston. May 10, 1883. Although this letterhead lacks an addressee, it came from the same group as the next two Millers Falls related letterheads. This is a request for repair and alterations to two vises, to be shipped to Gay & Parsons, Augusta, Maine.


Categories: Hand Tools

Gage Tool Co. Vineland, N.H. 1897

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:35pm

Envelope & Letter: GAGE TOOL CO., Vineland, N.H., April 30, 1897. Envelope and letter from P. S. Gage to his Father, John Gage. Apparently the Gage family was having problems paying their water bills. The letter from P. S. Gage to his father is presented in four parts for legibility.

Download Gagetoolltr



Trade Journal Advertisement: GAGE TOOL CO. The Carpenter, 1908. "Only Self-Setting Plane-30 Days' Trial


Categories: Hand Tools

Breaking Down Odd Stock

Inside the Oldwolf Workshop - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:25pm
As I began the journey of building a pair of boxes to hold cremation remains in a ground burial vault (you can read the specifics HERE) I had a pair of odd sized boards to break down into regular useable stock.

These walnut boards measure around 16" at their widest giving 7 to 8 foot of length. They were given to me by Bob several years ago and they came from a tree that blew over on the farm he grew up on and that was milled into lumber. Most of the tree went to make a very nice desk that is still in use, I couldn't tell you the date but to hear the stories he had it made right around the time of my wife's birth, forty plus years ago. I don't know how long he hauled the boards around before that.

He kept these two left over stragglers with large sections of crotch grain and told me many times he had intended to make a "very neat" coffee table from them. They lived in leaky garages and sheds until I was given them about seven years ago. He asked after them a bit, wanting to know what I'd made with them, and my response came to be that the boards were too dried out to do anything really with. Not a whole truth but in honesty I was at a loss when it came to how to use them.

By the time I got them large cracks had developed in the wider areas, and splits up from the narrower ends. Dry rot, punkiness, and some bug holes were problems on either end where they'd sat on dirt or concrete, semi exposed to the elements for decades. The shape was odd, triangularish, rhoboid, well odd let's just live with odd as a description. They looked like wide boards but sure didn't look useable as wide boards.

Then Bob passed away and I was discussing the building of these boxes with my wife and she reminded me of these boards. Now there was the perfect project they'd been waiting decades for. But how do you break them down to useable stock?

I pulled them out of the lumber rack and leaned them up against the wall for several days while I finished up a few other half done projects. I needed to get boards finished at 6 1/2" wide from these pieces, as much of it as I could. Both had a mostly flat edge along one side and I decided to start by jointing it out.

Lacking a leg vise doesn't usually bother me but handling stock like this makes it interesting. I supported the board on one of my saw benches. I used a holdfast in the deadman on one end and a clamp across from the other side of the bench to level out the flat area and hold the board.

Then it was just down to work with my #7. I didn't really have what anyone would call a "true face" to reference square off of, I'd just lean down and eyeball the edge every couple strokes to make sure I wasn't tilting or doing something else weird.

Once I had the flat I set my panel gauge to 7" and scratched a line.

I used a ruler to extend the line out past the points where the flat ended. Then I headed back over to the saw benches.

This stuff is shy of 3/4" thick and a 5 TPI rip saw made quick and easy work out of it. In a minute I had one board close to my desire.

On the wider board I marked a square line just inside any cracks or nastiness and cross cut those off.

I repeated the process on the second board. Then I wheeled the tablesaw from the corner because the tablesaw excels at perfectly parallel. I ran the straight edge through at 6 3/4" then ran the other side through at a hair past my 6 1/2" so I can swipe off the machine marks later.

Without mistakes I need total around 52" of material for a box. I managed to get enough good stuff for three and a half boxes. I'm not unhappy with this yield and better yet I'm satisfied I've found the right use for this walnut that has seen such a journey to get to this point.

Ratione et Passionis
Categories: General Woodworking

John S. Fray & Company Spofford Braces and Tool Handles. Ad Cover 1894

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:03pm

Ad Cover: John S. Fray & Company, 1894. Makers of Spofford Braces and Tool Handles. I guess that at the time, they felt the need to advertsise their tool handles more than the Spofford Brace.

JsfrayspoffordAdCvr1894 copy-1

Categories: Hand Tools

Ford Bit Company Trade Catalog c1900

Toolemera - Wed, 11/22/2017 - 10:01pm

FORD BIT CO. Holyoke, Mass. c1896-1900. Yes, this catalog really is that yellow. A nice catalog from one of the lesser known auger bit companies. A great piece of printing design work too. One of the best examples of the "Eastlake" style of late 19th Century graphic design.

Download FordbitCat1896


Categories: Hand Tools


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