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Hand Tools

Resizing another Shelving Unit

MVFlaim Furnituremaker - Sat, 10/14/2017 - 6:25pm

I was in the process of building another shelving unit for my wife’s new booth in Milford, Ohio. She originally asked me to build it four feet long. However, once I started to attach the shelves to the unit, she wasn’t too thrilled with the overall dimensions. I asked if she wanted it cut down to 36″ long instead of 48″, but she was afraid that it would be too much work. I assured her that I could cut it down without much problem.


I slapped the unit on top of my workbench and carefully measured where the rails were to be cut. I then grabbed my Festool plunge saw and rail system, clamped it to the lines and ran down the rail cutting as deep the blade would go.


I then flipped the unit off the bench and cut the two attached shelves in half.


After one side was free, I unscrewed the pocket holes and broke away the rails with a hammer. I then cleaned the side up with a random orbital sander.


I then flipped the other side of the unit back onto the bench and re-drilled the pocket holes to the shortened rails. For the two shelves that already had plywood nailed in place, I had to bust out the plywood with a hammer.


After about twenty minutes, the shelving unit came back together a foot shorter. I cut the remaining plywood to the new measurements and installed them using cleats on the inside of the rails.


Now it was time for the antique shutters to be screwed onto the sides.


After a coat of black paint, the shelving unit looks really nice in her new booth.


The M&T Shop: 200-Year-Old Wall Sheathing

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Sat, 10/14/2017 - 3:36pm

This afternoon, Luke and his partner, Sara, came up from Vermont to deliver the 200-year-old  1-1/4” thick wall sheathing. About half of the load was from this frame originally but Luke threw in a bunch more of the same vintage and region to fill out the rest of our sheathing needs. We hauled the boards into the frame and loosely organized them by length and width.


We have a whole pile of boards that are up to 20” in width and other piles in the 12”-14” range. They are between 7 and 12 feet in length and all the boards have sash saw mill marks and beautiful patina. These will be applied to the outside of the frame as the finished interior wall.

We’ll then cut window openings into the sheathing and build a 2 x 4 wall outside that to house the insulation. The exterior will be finished with new vertical 16” wide pine boards (with wide battens beneath the joints) so that the interior and exterior will look as if there was no insulation.


Mike and I are working our butts off to complete this “Tables” video before we dive into this sheathing. We are very close and hope to be tackling these boards next week.

- Joshua


Categories: Hand Tools

new tool for Miles........

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 10/14/2017 - 2:15am
I saw this tool on Jim Bodes's site for a good price and it was what I was looking for so I pulled the trigger. It is a Stanley block plane, the # 60 1/2. I don't know how to type these but it looks to be in good shape regardless. I bought and rehabbed a #9 block plane and this will complete the block plane acquisitions for Miles. In fact I'm done getting planes for him for the foreseeable future. The only plane I think I might snap up is a Stanley 46 if I see a good user for sale.

low angle 60 1/2
I have the LN version of the Stanley #9 which as far as I know, they don't make or sell anymore. I have the LN 102 and 103 (the 103 isn't made or sold anymore too) small non adjustable block planes and of those two I use the low angle 102 95% of the time. It is my favorite. I've been thinking of getting the LN 60 1/2 but so far the LN 102 has been working fine for me.

it has most of it's japanning
Overall this plane is clean looking and has zero dings and scratches no matter where I look. This will be a good complement for the #9 in his toolbox.

the inner parts of the plane look good too
The iron has a lot of life left in it. It should last Miles for quite a while. I will snag any irons that I see just in case.

nice shavings
These are out of the box shavings. The bevel looks and feels sharp but it has a rough scratch pattern across it. I will sharpen and hone it when I rehab it.

the lid fits
It slips on and of easily. It isn't a loose fit and it's maybe a hair shy of snug.

lid flipped 180
If fits this way too. The joint line around the lid changed a little here and there but I got the same fit. On and off with gentle pressure.

how I got the fit
The lid would not fit over the banding. It was hanging somewhere. I could fit the lid cocked like this on one end. It fits over the end and the long sides.

I could repeat it with the lid cocked on the opposite side
It is looking to be that the ends of the walnut banding are longer then the lid.

the problem
I can't see it too well but by the feel I can sense the lid is just short of the outside edge of the banding. I think I'm good on the fit on the long sides so I will start the trim and fit dancing with the ends.

started with sanding
I only did one dance step with this and stopped. I didn't want to gouge the outside lip on the bottom. The one sanding didn't get the lid to fit.

switched to the bullnose plane
After the first trim the lid fit but it was too snug for my liking. I didn't want it loose but I also didn't want a tight snug. It took 2 more trim and fit steps before I got it to my liking. The lid fit (both ways) and came off with a satisfying slight pop and went on with a minimum of pressure.

planed the outside
see the dark line?
The line is from the toe of one miter going pass the other one. I don't like this because they seem to stand out to me like a deer in the headlights. I fixed it with the small block plane by planing the high toe down to the low one.

the LN 102 was too big
I planed the round over only on the outside. I left the inside of the walnut straight. The small violin plane worked perfectly for planing the small round over.

a light sanding and it was done
left the lid as is
The round over helped some with the lid going on so I didn't do anything with the lid. I had thought of putting a small chamfer on the bottom inside of the lip. I didn't do mostly because I didn't want to  chance introducing any slop with lid mating with the bottom.

I'm calling this done
I will put a few coats of shellac on it and I should be able to bring it to work on monday. I will put shellac just on the outside of the box.

the iron bevel isn't 25°
Five strokes on the coarse stone and I'm only hitting a portion of the heel. I stopped here and ran it on the 80 grit runway until I reestablished the bevel at 25°.

forgot to do the back first
The back was pretty flat and I didn't have to spend lot of time raising a shine on it. Of course I had to sharpen the bevel again but I only had to do the fine diamond stone and the 8K japanese one.

the sole is pretty flat
this side looks to be flat
This isn't necessary but I'll do it anyways.  I do like shiny so that is all I'll do on the sides. This is where I stopped. My wife just came home with Miles and the girls and brought pizza.  I think I should be able to get the finish on the rubber band box and get the 60 1/2 rehabbed this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who became vice president after vice president Andrew Johnson became president when Lincoln was assassinated?
answer - no one

A Viking ship...

Owyhee Mountain Fiddle Shop - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 4:05pm

... with a crew of horned-helmet warriors.

Please, no Spam.

Categories: Hand Tools, Luthiery

Posers need not apply

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 3:30pm

The following is a short excerpt from Making Things Work.


It was a spacious shop, well lit and outfitted with a tidy mix of old and new equipment. “I’m working on a dining table and chairs for a client in Miami,” [my host] told me. “Quite a famous bloke, actually. To tell the truth, he’s got such a big name that I’m not allowed to say it. Not that that’s anything out of the ordinary in my world. These days it’s rare for me to work for anyone who’s not routinely written up in Esquire or Vanity Fair, that sort of thing.”

“Which part of London are you from?” I asked, curious as to the origin of his accent.

Ignoring my question, he turned his head to the right, saying “Come an’ take a look at this table and chairs” as he strode toward his workbench. The dining set was inspired by the work of French Art Deco designer Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann. The table, made of rosewood, was stunning. A cross between Deco and neoclassical, it had an extending top that could seat an intimate foursome or expand to accommodate 10. It was waiting to be finished, as soon as the chairs were ready.

“Double tenons hidden in those miters around the seat,” he remarked. “Ever use those darlin’s? I’m telling you, they are quite the challenge to pull off. But what a sturdy bit of join’ry they are. Those chairs will last forever. On the other hand, so will everything I make. That’s one of the reasons my clients are willing to wait years for an opening in my schedule.”

“I took a look at your website,” he went on. “Nice enough work, but really….’Period-authentic furniture and built-ins?’ It’s all been done before, ‘ain’t it? You couldn’t pay me to do that type of guff for common punters. On the other ‘and, someone’s got to do it, so I daresay it might as well be you.”

Now that he’d established I didn’t even rank high enough to engage in a pissing match (not that I am ever inclined to take part in such b.s.) I thought he might answer my question. “Which part of London are you from?” I asked again.

You can read the scintillating remainder of this tale and learn the origin of my host’s accent in Making Things Work.

Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

New YouTube Channel!

Anne of All Trades - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:51pm

The long-awaited Anne of All Trades YouTube channel is finally here! Subscribe and learn right alongside Anne as she tackles all kinds of projects in the woodshop and around the farm. Check it out at https://www.youtube.com/user/allaboutanne18

You're So Metal

The Mortise & Tenon Magazine Blog - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:29pm

Editor's Note: Jim and I have been discussing metal-bodied vs. wooden hand planes and agreed to have an open discussion on the matter here on the blog. Here's Jim's take.

One of the driving passions behind Mortise & Tenon Magazine is the exploration of efficient pre-industrial woodworking techniques in the hope that we can share that information with others. We realize that we sometimes sound like evangelists and we’re ok with that. We really are trying to share the good news of rough secondary surfaces and set people free from the law of machine tolerances. With that in mind I sometimes feel like a bit of a hypocrite when I admit that the planes I choose for my own personal work are direct result of the industrial revolution that we so often rail against. 

That's right, I use metal bodied planes. Judge me accordingly.

The only wooden planes in my workshop are a couple of moulding and dado planes that find occasional use, but mostly live in the bottom cabinet of my tool chest. Oh, and one old fore plane that serves as decoration, you know, to make me feel authentic. The rest of the time, I'm a ductile iron kind of guy. I'm fairly ecumenically minded. I have nothing against wooden planes and I've tried out some of the very best, but for some reason I’ve never  even been tempted to make the switch. Lately I’ve started to wonder, why?

I have to admit that I’ve always thought of wooden planes as fussy (Tap, tap, tap). They also have the reputation of being temperamental and susceptible to changes in the weather. Honestly I suspect that those issues are greatly exaggerated, but I can’t shake the feeling that wooden planes are like the creaky old men at the barbershop who predict the weather by the aches and pains of the day. To be fair, a wooden plane in good condition should take no more time to set up than their metal counterparts. The only real problems I’ve ever had were with the neglected and derelict wooden planes that sometimes float around antique shops. I bought a few of these when I started working with hand tools. In general, I should have left them for the interior decorators.

If you’re new to rust hunting it’s a lot easier to hit a homerun with a rusty old Stanley Bailey than your average Ohio Tools woody. To date, I’ve probably had a 60% success rate with antique wooden planes. That gets better as you learn what you’re looking for and your chances also go up if you live in certain parts of the country (or certain countries for that matter), but these days there are other options. With the current renaissance of plane making you can get yourself a fancy new wooden plane (or a whole set) and although you will likely pay exponentially more than you might for an antique store find, you will also be buying the peace of mind that they’re well tuned and ready for shavings. 

That’s appealing to me... until I remember how much I paid for the handplanes I already own.


Besides, that’s the argument people make about new high-end metal planes isn’t it? The idea that you pay for the privilege of pulling a highly refined tool out of the box, sharp and ready to go to work? Hmmm... And metal planes take some fussing too. Blades get dull. Moisture wreaks its rusty havoc. You need to wipe them down and keep them oiled. It’s certainly easier to true the sole of a wooden plane than one cast in iron. Oh, and the weight!

Do I need to continue?

This is PC vs Mac. Canon vs Nikon. Ford vs Chevy. Duke vs that other team from North Carolina.

There will always be opinions and there are no perfect answers. I won’t argue that metal planes better than wooden planes. I can make all sorts of rationalizations, but use metal planes for the simplest reason of all - because I like them. They feel right to me. I understand their idiosyncrasies and yet I find them to be reliable and well-suited to the work I do. The heft and inertia of these post-industrial beasts work in my favor (most of the time) and I understand how to make the subtle adjustments to get what I need out of them. With the limited shop time I have, I don’t want to think hard about the tools. I just want to use them, and these are the tools I want to use. Some days they wear me out, but they always put a smile on my face.

- Jim McConnell



Categories: Hand Tools

Saddling the Dugout Chair (and a Cologne Request)

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:21pm


I tried to finish the seat of the dugout chair today in preparation for our open day tomorrow (10 a.m. to 5 p.m. – lots to do and see). But I was only able to squeeze in about 30 minutes of work as I was dealing with heavy construction out back with the Lost Art Press Horse Garage.

In any case, I’m trying not to make this seat too refined or precious. I want it to match the ruggedness of the chair. But I don’t want it to look sloppy. So I’m shooting for “done quickly and with purpose.”

This seat is made from the last significant chunk of Eastern white pine from Midwest Woodworking I own. I’m going to miss this stuff.

I don’t wear cologne (heck, I barely wear deodorant). But if someone could make a cologne that smells like Eastern white pine when it’s being cut, I would actually wear that scent. Of course, the scent would only really attract beavers and some bark-eating grubs. But oh well.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

Filed under: Yellow Pine Journalism
Categories: Hand Tools

Registration for Welsh Stick Chair With Chris Williams

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 9:00am

You can now register for the chairbuilding class with Chris Williams via this link.

Note: Registering for the class or the waiting list is free – they won’t ask you for a credit card to register. After the dust settles, we will invoice the six attendees, as discussed here.

If the six slots are filled, please consider signing up for the waiting list. People’s lives will change in the next seven months.

See you in May!

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: John Brown Book, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Using French Curves

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 6:27am


This morning I posted an entry on our Crucible Tool site about how to use the continuously changing radius on French Curves to join three points. This is a huge help when creating irregular or organic shapes.

Read the entry here.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

it is a type 4/5

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 1:23am
A Stanley #6 was waiting for me on the dinning room table when I got home. I had seen this plane on the Timeless Tools and Treasures site last week and I had passed on it. Instead a bought a #6 from Patrick Leach's october tool list. It turned out not to be a good plane to give to Miles but this #6 is perfect. It is a type 4/5 and it is less than half the weight of the WWII vintage #6 I got from Patrick. I'll be expending a few calories to rehab it.

Miles's new plane
I think this will be the upper limit that Miles will be able to muscle for a while. Once he gets old enough I'll get him a #7 if he is still interested in woodworking. A quick once over of this plane shows it is in pretty good condition considering it's age. What is surprising is the condition of the front knob and the tote. Both are awfully good looking rosewood without a single dent or chip on them. The plane is grungy looking and shows a fair amount of use but it was also well taken care of.

my #6, type 4/5,  at the forefront
I just remembered that I had gotten my #6 from Jane at Timeless Tools & Treasures too. With the exception of the front knobs being slightly different, they are exactly the same. I didn't bother going nutso my #6 rehab because I use it only for stock prep.

why I had passed on it the first time
The sole on it is corrugated and I'm not a fan of them. However, it had a good price, looked ok, and it was an early type so I got it. It'll be Miles so him and I will get used to it, me before him. Even though I don't like this type of sole, I'll be able to use it and see if I might like it.

I believe in using as much as possible but this is a frog hair short of nothing. I have never seen an iron used up this much before. I'll have to start the search for another iron. I have a spare that I can put in this plane but that will leave me one short.

road test with a new iron

If I can't find another iron, Ray Iles makes a replacement iron that I can use here. Until then I'll use one my spare irons.
rabbeted box
This is one of two boxes that I made that has a lid detail similar to the one I'm working on now. I made these when I used machines and I didn't know how to do dovetails. All my boxes made in this era were done with rabbeted joinery.

almost 20 years old
I don't remember how I made these two but I do recall it needing two rabbets.

the two rabbets
I remember that the saw cut to separate the lid from the bottom was done on the middle of the two rabbets. I didn't make anymore of these because I wanted to make the one I did now but the inside banding held up that parade along with the miters.

rabbet on the inside of the lid
the other rabbet is on the outside
I think one advantage of this method is there is no mitering and gluing in of the banding. Both of the rabbets were made before the box was glued up.

back to new box
I like this method of doing this. I can put a contrasting wood in the banding. This way also takes a bit more finessing to do because of the miters and their fitting dance steps. I went with yellow glue on this because I planned to play with after an hour or so. That didn't happen because I ended up playing with Miles instead.

I had planned on gluing the banding into the lid rather then the bottom. Changed my mind after I got a comment from Sylvain that it might interfere with the rubber bands being in the bottom.  Makes sense as the lid would be going into the inside of the bottom rather outside it and hitting rubber bands. I think he saved me a bit of potential frustration and it possibly going airborne.

glued until tomorrow
It is taking a wee bit longer than anticipated to finish this.

checking the lid is twist free
miters look good
All four corners are the same with the toe/heels being tight and the seams consistent.

got my one complete shaving
I checked the lid first and hit the high spots. I then ran the plane around the top until I got one shaving from the starting point until I came around back to it.

curiosity satisfied
I did a quick sanding of this corner to see what the miter would look like. It needs a bit more work to even it out. I'll stop here and do the final planing and sanding of the box once I get the lid fitted.

my 5/8" match planes
I'm revisiting these after a bit of a hiatus. The irons don't come together. One of these is too big and I'm going to find out which one it is.

it's not the tongue iron
It is set too deep here but what I am looking at is the inside of the iron and how it fits with the groove in the plane. This fit is ok on the walls of the groove.

the groove plane is very well made
The skate is is great condition and straight as an arrow. There is also a wear plate underneath that is clean and straight too. I would like to get this one working even if it is an off size at 5/8.

the problem
I was thinking about this iron and what was available to craftsmen at this time to thin the width of the iron. I came up with files, stones, or a grinding wheel. I tried using sandpaper and the stones. I also did a quick squaring of the end of the iron.

used 1/2" stock

the tongue is off center which it should be
iron is set too deep
I thought I had the iron set too shallow but that shaving is way too thick.

the groove is too wide
much better groove shaving
pencil line is the depth of the groove
It looks like I have to grind, sand, rub off at least another 16th of an inch. Taking off that much on sandpaper will take a lot of time. I think I'll try a file next and see how that goes. The iron is tapered and I'll have to go back pass my pencil line at a minimum.

my other 3/4" match planes
 They are marked 3/4 but when I measure them I get 11/16 which I think is a weird size for match planes. The standard width stock then was 7/8" so this must be due to wear.

ugly looking T&G
out of square
I thought the out of square groove was due to my planing but it wasn't. The groove iron is kind of square and it isn't the reason the groove is as misshaped as it is. On closer inspection, the iron is twisted. It isn't parallel to the outside walls of the skate. Even a square iron wouldn't make a square bottom groove if it is twisted in the plane.

the tongue looks good so I'll work on the groove iron
stripped down the #6
I think I may do all three of the #6 planes together. I ordered some brass screws for the totes and brass parts for the totes and knobs. Sounds like a fun filled weekend for me. Stopped here because Mile just woke up from his nap.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
A Biblical cubit is 18 inches. How long is a Roman cubit?
answer - 17.5 inches

Customer Dovetails

David Barron Furniture - Fri, 10/13/2017 - 12:20am

Leo from the US sent me these shots of his good progress with hand cut dovetails using one of my guides. He's using coloured dots which is good to see, this simple highly visual aid tells you which board goes with which, where the outside is and also which is the top of each piece.
Leo also made an alignment board but says that the best tip is to wear his reading glasses and improve the lighting. He's also doing lots of practice which is the ultimate way to get good at anything.

Categories: Hand Tools

Sharpening Dividers

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 7:20pm

Today Raney and I shot this short video on how to sharpen dividers with an all-purpose tip. These instructions work with any dividers, including our own. Next up: How to modify the tips to do interesting things.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Fit Irregular (Impossible!) Shapes with ‘Ticking Sticks’

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 4:26pm

The trick to fitting wooden pieces into impossible recesses is to learn about “ticking sticks.” These simple sticks – plus a sheet of paper – can make monstrous tasks into a easy job. Here’s how they work. “Ticking sticks” go by many names in the historical record, but they are the best technology for cutting a piece of wood to fit an odd opening. All you need to perform this […]

The post Fit Irregular (Impossible!) Shapes with ‘Ticking Sticks’ appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Finishing Workshop @ CW – Grain Filling 2

The Barn on White Run - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 3:57pm

“Cold wax” grain filling with a rush polisher was integral to the finishing practices of the ancients.  It was primarily used to finish solid wood cabinetry as opposed to the hot wax method, which was generally restricted to fancier work like marquetry.

The process is so simple that there is almost no explaining to do.  The precursor step is to plane, scrape, and in some rare instances scour the wood with abrasives like sharkskin, glass paper, or horsetail rush.  Then,  the wood surface is scrubbed with  a block of beeswax until there is a generous, but not continuous, deposit.

Taking the fiber polisher in-hand the surface is rubbed with as much pressure and vigor for as long as you can manage, first working at a slight angle to the grain, then its opposite angle, then finally with the grain.  The friction developed at the point of contact between the tip of the polisher and the wood generates enough heat to turn the wax buttery and presses it down into the grain, filling it.

In some instances, as I had them do in this exercise, the surface is sprinkled with a colorant, usually powdered pigment or resin that has been ground into a fine flour.  In this case I had them use some raw umber pigment to accentuate the technique (in the real world the colorant would be selected to best fit the coloration of the wood).

When finished any excess wax would be scraped off then the surface buffed with linen and wool rags until there is a uniform gloss.

For most plain solid wood furniture and cabinetry, this actually sufficed as the finished surface and nothing more would be done.  You can see the resulting surface at the upper left corner of this sample board.

Making an infill plane from scratch 15, project completed.

Mulesaw - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 2:57pm
Yesterday I managed to complete the Norris style adjuster and mount it. I never got around to write a blog post about it, since it was getting a bit late.

Today I realized that I couldn't really put it off any longer. There wasn't much work left to do on the plane save for sharpening the blade and make sure that it was seated well on the bed (frog). Flattening the sole and sanding everything once again.

I silver soldered the threaded part to the adjuster base, so it is not possible to do any lateral adjustment with this adjuster, only depth adjustment.
A recess was made in the front of the rear tote, by first drilling a series of holes and later chiseling the waste out. I painted the back of the base with a whiteboard marker, and I could see where it had rubbed off, that there was a high spot. The same method was later used to check and adjust the seating of the blade.
The rod with the adjustment screw could have been a bit longer, but I guess that you don't adjust such a plane all the time, and I prefer that the adjustment screw is not protruding too much form the plane.

It took a bit of fiddling to find the best initial position for the retaining ring and the threaded rod, so everything worked fine at maximum and minimum depth adjustment.

Eventually I had to file a bit more from the underside of the lever cap, to be able to slide it under the fulcrum pivotal rod (it has probably got some other name).
This caused the lever cap screw to be just in the shortest range. So I think that I will make a new screw with a 1/8" longer threaded portion.

Today I sharpened the blade and after doing that I inserted it in the plane and tightened the lever cap screw. With the blade in place and the screw tightened, I then started to flatten the sole of the plane.
The idea of doing this while the blade is in the plane and in tension is, that it could potentially distort the sole of the plane a bit, and therefore it is best to flatten while everything is as close to working conditions as possible.
I also took the time to mark the bed with MMXVII for sake of good order.

Our lapping plate is new, but still I am not convinced that it is 100% flat and true. But I guess it is good enough for a home made infill plane. And besides it is what I have.

After some more sanding I treated the wood with some olive oil. I guess that it will slowly be absorbed by the wood, and then when I get home I can give it some paste was or some linseed oil as I have originally planned.

I tested the plane to see if it would work, and it actually did. I was able to plane a small piece of Bubinga both ways. It wasn't the most dramatic grain run out, but it did its job perfect with the grain and against it.

Conclusion of the project:
This project required a lot of metal work and comparatively little woodwork. There was much more filing and sanding compared to my usual projects.
There were a few difficulties that arose during the course of the build, such as less than ideally positioned holes etc.
The Norris style adjuster is a cool feature, but I tend to think that hammer adjustment would have been better. It could easily just be my adjuster that isn't the best - but now it sits there. If it ever acts up or seizes to work, then I can always remove it and either fill out the gap left behind, or just leave it as it is.
I personally think that the plane came out all right. There are a few places that still has got some minor scratches, but it was meant to be a tool, not a sanding contest.
My favourite part of the plane is the front tote where it blends in with the sole. And the lever cap with the massive number C954 cast into the front.
If I had been at home I doubt that I would have persevered during such a project, but out here it is more a matter of doing something to keep myself busy in my spare time.
I am not sure that it works any better than a regular Stanley, but it looks better in my opinion, and besides, I think it is the only infill plane in the world that was made on board a ship.

Infill smoother, steel and Bubinga.

Finished with olive oil.

Lever cap from aluminium bronze C954

Test shaving in Bubinga.

Parts for the Norris adjuster.

Completed Norris adjuster.

Making a recess for the adjuster.


Categories: Hand Tools

The Plane Build – Video

The English Woodworker - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 11:19am
The Plane Build – Video

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So… Why Build Your Own Wooden Plane?

When you can get a smashing Stanley No 5 for about thirty five quid, why hassle yourself making a wooden plane?

The thing is, No 4s are naff.

And metal jointers get expensive (for the good ones). And they often will need a fair bit of awkward work to make serviceable.

Continue reading at The English Woodworker.

Categories: Hand Tools

Reconsider, Reconstruct and Renew Your Thinking

Paul Sellers - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 7:45am

If you don’t believe you can you won’t I am always interested in hearing people discuss issues surrounding furniture making and selling what you make. If you put your cell phones and computers away and stop listening to those who say it can’t be done you will likely do it just fine by just putting […]

Read the full post Reconsider, Reconstruct and Renew Your Thinking on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Steve Latta Dishes on Fine Woodworking

360 WoodWorking - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 3:35am
Steve Latta Dishes on Fine Woodworking

In this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking writer, furniture maker and instructor Steve Latta is back to talk about Fine Woodworking Magazine.  Listen as he talks about the various editors he has worked with at the magazine throughout the past 30 years, and learn about a few of the articles he is most please with writing. Plus, he shares his method of work. Are you “process” oriented, or “project” oriented?

Join 360 Woodworking every Thursday for a lively discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more).

Continue reading Steve Latta Dishes on Fine Woodworking at 360 WoodWorking.

made lots of progress......

Accidental Woodworker - Thu, 10/12/2017 - 1:05am
Picked up a couple more techniques or methods of work tonight.  That brings my total to working on the box to three. There was a certain bit of trepidation doing them because they were new to me. I hadn't done anything like this before and screwing it up would render the box useless. I have never shied away from much and I am a firm believer in trying. I came through it ok and I think I can thank all my previous hand tool work paying off here.

my miter saw
This section of the teeth look to be ok. On the rest of the saw the teeth vary in height. I can see that the teeth have been recently sharpened as they are still shiny and are sharpened for crosscut. That explains some of the rough cuts on the miters. Maybe if I get all the teeth even it will improve the cut. I'll try to sharpen it this weekend.

pit stop at the post office
Made a quick stop at the PO to pick up a couple of boxes. I stole borrowed some packing stuff from my wife and got some planes packed up. I'll ship them on saturday.  I have a few more to pass on but these boxes are too small and the PO was out of big boxes.

out of the clamps
The first thing I look at with miters is how tight is it where the toes and heels come together. A bit ragged out looking here but the toes are tight.

the opposite kitty corner
The nubby looking crappola is dried hide glue. The miter looks pretty good and I'll plane this after I saw it apart.

marked my saw line
This will be my first time sawing a box apart with a hand saw. I've done this before on a tablesaw and have gotten good results. Which type of rip saw should I use? Paul Sellers used a panel saw when he sawed his big box but this one isn't even a tenth of that size.

carcass rip saw
I have a small rip panel saw but I think the box is too small for it. I opted for this because it is smaller and I have better control with it. I started on the top corner and went around the box from there.

I strayed off the line in 3 spots but I saw them and was able to correct it.

the lid has some twist
The far left and the near right are high. I knocked those down first and checked it again. I then went around the lid and stopped when I got a continuous shaving.

bottom is twist free
both parts planed
This is the one part of this I wasn't too sure of. Paul Sellers did his box/lid planing in a casual manner while I was sweating bullets that I was planing too much off. The small horizontal divot on the left joint line is where the saw tried to make a errant trip into La La Land.

the backside looks good too
It looks like I was fretting over this for nothing. This only the first time and maybe I got lucky. After I have repeated this several times, I'll consider myself a good beginner.

miters rough sawn to length
I will trim them fit on the donkey ear jig.

tight fit with the miters - time to see if the lid mates
this side slipped on
back side isn't cooperating
The walnut is too wide and I'll have to thin it some. I'll do that after I get the lid to slip on and off.

pulled the lid off and the walnut came with it
Every box I've seen like this has had the inner banding on the bottom. The top does seem to like having it though.

a bit of fussing and I got it to go
I don't have to trim the height of the walnut as much as I thought I would have to. It is a tight fit and it'll take a few trimming and fitting dance steps to get it to fit. I'll have to decide whether to glue the walnut in the bottom or the lid.

got wax on the walnut
I only cleaned the wax on the bottom and not the lid. I cleaned it out of the lid and the walnut so I can glue it in either one now.

got it
I got the lid to fit onto the walnut with it in the bottom. Still a tight fit and much too tight to use as is.

where I left off
I couldn't decide where to glue the walnut, whether to trim the width now, do a round over on the walnut now or after the glue up, or chisel a slight chamfer on the bottom inside of the lid. Miles just woke up from his nap so I shut the lights out and headed upstairs.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the longest river in North America?
answer - The Missouri River ( it beats the Mississippi by over 20 miles)


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