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Some pics I could snap again like the very last one. The others I didn't try to stage again. So I took a few to show the what I had done. But it was a short night in the shop so I'm sure the pic count would not have been too high anyways.
|the after pic|
|this actually looks better|
|from NH plane parts|
|why I bought it|
|plumb bob for the 'A' thing - still no proper name for it|
|plumb bob for the Plumb line stick|
|it is the center|
I drew a line from the bottom angle by my finger, to the apex of the top one. It went almost dead nuts through the diagonals I drew yesterday. I am going to put the hole for the plumb bob string about a 1/2" above the center point.
|prepped the plumb line stick|
|here is the pic of the outside edge Frank|
|maybe it is for this????|
|portable square till|
Who was the first black actor to win an Emmy as a lead actor in a comedy series?
answer - Robert Guillaume for Benson in 1985 (he passed away last week)
the title is for Michael Rogen, just to let him know I’m thinking of him. I like that summer’s gone. Fall is a beautiful time of year here. I am especially enjoying seeing how the light in the shop changes now. Today the light caught my eye a number of times. If I’m not careful, I’ll take as many photos as Rick McKee https://www.instagram.com/medullary_rick/
Today I got to work some in the shop, after teaching for 7 days straight (a student here for a week, and Plymouth CRAFT for the weekend). Time to finish off some stuff, first up is the wainscot chair. For this seat, I do use a template, in this case to map out the square mortises chopped in the seat board so it slips over the stiles. Here’s the seat board with its template off to the left. Complete with dust in the sunlight..
I’ve done lots of these, but it’s always worth it to go slowly – you have to get the holes just right, or they have gaps, or worse, the seat splits at the very narrow area beside the stile. Once I’m satisfied with the template’s fit, I scribe the locations of the mortises on the seat. That short grain right between the upper right hand corner of this mortise and the end grain is the fragile part. I’ve split them there, and seen them split on old ones.
Then I bore around the perimeter of the mortise with an auger bit.
Then chop with the chisel to bring the mortise to the proper shape. I scored the lines with a knife and/or awl. Very careful work with the chisel.
Once I have the mortise squared off, I bevel underneath, paring the walls of the mortise so it’s undercut. I only want the mortise tight on the stiles right at the top where it shows. I’ve never checked the underside of this joint on a period chair – but I like the idea of under-cutting it & beveling it. It relieves any un-necessary pressure there.
Then slip the seat down to test it.
Then I do the molding around the front and sides. Sides (end grain) first. A rabbet plane followed by a smooth plane. In this case, a moving filletster and the LN low angle jack plane.
I scored the line ahead of the filletster so I got a clean shoulder to this rabbet. The nicker on that plane is defunct. Then I used this Lie-Nielsen plane to round over the corner of the rabbet to create the thumbnail molding.
I work the front edge after the two ends, to clean up any tear-out. This seat is a nice clear radially-riven oak, two boards edge-glued together. Works great.
Then for good measure, I threw the arms in place, so I could test it out. The seat will be pegged into the three rails; square pegs in round holes.
These chairs are smaller than they look. They’re so imposing because of all the decoration, the bulk of the parts – but they’re really pretty snug chairs.
Here’s the important view – looks pretty tight around the stiles. Whew.
If you made it this far, thanks. 15 pictures – for me that’s over 2 weeks of Instagram. I like IG, but the blog is my favorite way to show what I’m up to…more detail, more depth. More work – but it’s fun. thanks for keeping up with me…
This is mainly to do with price, but also to do with convenience.
One sheet of 11mm Good One Side Fir Sanded Plywood at Lowe's or Home Depot is less than $50 a sheet. Included in that price is up to five cuts to the sheet, so getting the stock into the trunk of my wife's Fusion to take home was never a problem.Why two layers of 11mm fir ply?
I wanted the material thickness to be in the same scale as the cabinet it defines. This is a fair-sized cabinet so its components should reflect that. I didn't need a full 1" thick. All I needed was material that was obviously thicker than 3/4", hence the laminated 11mm ply, which, when veneered on both sides, ends up being a very thin hair thinner than 1".
Why not use pre-veneered ply?By laminating two 11mm pieces I could ensure they were dead flat during glue-up and they would stay that way after they came out of the clamps (ok, when the screws were removed - don't be so picky).
I wanted White Oak veneer, not Red. The box stores only sell Red Oak Veneered ply, so I would have to purchase what I needed at a hardwood lumber yard, rent a truck to get it home, and fight with it to cut it up as I do not own a panel saw.
Also, I have never done any veneering before and I wanted to try it.Why veneer before assembly?
Every component included in this cabinet is flat-slabbed. There isn't a curved surface on it. Believe me, I tried to add a curve or two, but when I did, I lost a lot of storage room where the corners once were. Because it is just flat panels, I guessed that fitting the veneer would be far easier if I had to trim 1" thick stock than it would be if I had to deal with stock that was 0.8mm thick.Why use Bondo?
You can't be a car-guy who grew up in the '50s and '60s and not know about Bondo. 3M makes Bondo, and they also make a slightly heavier two-part filler called White Lightnin'. They recommend both for metal and wood, but I have found that the Bondo is quicker to work with for lighter applications, such as fairing my plywood slabs.Peace,
The lid on that big on is spooky!!
You can now purchase our limited edition “marriage mark” hats in the online store. The hats are $27, and that price includes shipping in the United States (sorry these hats are not available to international customers).
You can purchase your hat via this link. You might want to hurry as there are only 100 available.
These are hats were embroidered and stamped by Texas Heritage Woodworks, so the work is crisp and perfect. These hats are made in China by Adams. But they are the best hat we could find before getting into the $100 baseball cap territory.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Uncategorized
And a site it was just one year ago. Looking through a wired-off rectangle of waste land covered with old rubble from former construction work, I wondered to myself, “Could this ugly land be home to the work we want to progress quickly into the future?” Progress comes at a price and one part of the […]
It’s quite a lovely plane really. Compact and lightweight, feisty in the hand and then dead gutsy. That’s howI feel about all of the #3s really. I love plucking them from my tools from time to time and seeing them flip, turn and twist to task so willingly and immediately in my hands as I […]
I'm adding to my whining above a lack of sleep. I don't know why but I woke up this morning a few tics after double balls (midnight - 0000) and I could not get back to sleep. After tossing and flopping like fish out of water, I finally got up at 0300. I remember having a dream before I woke where I was using my "A" plumb bob thing to build a log cabin and my shoes started to unravel at the seams. That is when I woke up. Maybe I'll finish the dream tonight and find out why my shoes unraveled.
|new strops cut out|
|big square came in|
|17" on the outside|
|15" on the inside|
|happy face on - it's square on the inside|
|square on the outside|
|ear to ear smile now|
|square on the outside|
|I like the size and capability of this square|
|It won't fit in the bottom|
|fits in the big till|
|lots of room|
|cleaning up "A"|
|legs are still off|
|measured, marked, and sawed off the longer leg again|
|still a 1/4" off|
|I think I'm chasing tail|
|doesn't look like the middle|
|rough handle has had a chance to set up|
|I don't like it|
|I'm going knob and handle free|
|planed the twist out|
|I planed out the hump|
What is phobophobia?
answer - a fear of phobias
I had one more piece of the slab I used to make the dining room table, the only one with no knots and I was determined to get to the bottom of this issue. I began by using the power hand plane to get the rough surface down to within about 1/16" of flat. I didn't use a scrub plane because the last time I tried it tore out something fierce, 1/8" in places.
What I tried first was taking a sharp #3 set to take very shallow cuts. I used it across and on both diagonals to the grain and it worked really well:
I also gingerly tried it with the grain but it started to tearout, so I stopped. I was still puzzled about why this has been so difficult. I have flattened my bench, which is cvg fir, with minimal tearout and successfully made other things out of fir.
I decided to do some research and essentially found what I have read previously except in a more extreme form. Several experts recommend setting the chipbreaker absolutely as close to the edge as you can possibly get it when planing difficult wood, literally a few thousandths. The reasoning is precisely that it breaks the chips before they can tearout, producing accordion like shavings and only a slightly rougher surface. Neither put emphasis on a tight mouth. One suggested a bevel-up plane with a blade sharpened at a very steep angle as an alternative, something I have. The blade becomes its own chipbreaker. Being risk averse, I decided to give both of these a try with the grain on the bottom of the slab. In both cases, I sharpened the blades carefully before beginning.
As you can see from this picture of the sidegrain, it isn't difficult to predict where it would tearout.
With the #3 freshly sharpened and the chipbreaker set as close as I could get it, I tried planing with the grain. Nothing happened. Taking the plane apart, I discovered why.
There wedged between the plane and the chipbreaker were the accordion shaped shavings. Not hard to figure this out. I purchased this plane a while back, sharpened it, tried it, and it worked fine, so that's all I did. Visual inspection of the front of the chipbreaker attached to the blade looked just fine, but it clearly wasn't when the chipbreaker was set this close. There was enough of a gap that the chips could force their way in. The fact that I use the ruler trick on my plane blades may have been a contributing factor, I don't know. After I cleaned up and shaped the chipbreaker, the plane started producing nice accordion shavings with no tearout, just a slight roughness in places. This is what the shavings looked like.
As you can see, they are somewhat short because they tend to break off. Next, I decided to try my Lee Valley bevel-up smoother with a 50 degree blade. In this case, the blade acts as its own chipbreaker because the angle of attack is 62 degrees. It too produced shavings without tearout, but they were distinctly different, not accordion-shaped and more continuous, leaving a surface that was slightly smoother.
The major difference between these two planes was that the bevel-up plane was noticeably harder to push.
That left the issue of why I had experienced such bad tearout with old #7. I removed the Hock blade and chipbreaker to look at them and this is what I saw:
The chipbreaker was set fully 1/16" back from the edge. Sharpening the blade and moving the chipbreaker up to the very edge of the blade gave me long continuous shavings with very slight tearout, easily removed with a cabinet scraper.
You can see what a tight roll the chipbreaker being set up like this produces. I think the reason it isn't accordion shaped is that the Hock chipbreaker is at a lower angle than the stock Stanley one. The front of it has the same shape as the blade and is about the same thickness. It's like a second blade turned over and with a slight bow in it.
What are the takeaways? First, I don't know why I have to continually relearn this lesson, but when something isn't going well it pays to stop and figure out why rather than just blundering ahead.
More significantly to readers of this blog who are hopefully not beset with this failing, the advice to set the chipbreaker absolutely as close to the edge as you can get it when planing difficult wood is confirmed. You don't want to do this normally, because the resulting accordion shavings are not continuous and leave a somewhat rougher finish.
Finally, I think Lee Valley's claim that the low angle smoother with a 50 degree blade will do a good job on difficult grain is also confirmed.
Those were the boards that I had to shift inside as I was called to work a week earlier than anticipated.
So the first task was to shift all of them out again. I decided that I could work around the table that was inside, but I still needed to move the chairs and a bit of other stuff outside before starting the actual work.
The boards are the same type as those that were put on the sub roof. It is not a typical type of boards to use for internal paneling/boards, but it is of a much better quality than the regular type used. In Denmark the usual boards to be used would be something called "rustic boards". They are made out of the surplus Christmas trees that grew to fast so they were too large to sell. The distance between the growth rings is typical 3/8" or thereabouts, so the wood is of an exceptionally poor quality. The shape is like a tongue and groove board with the tongue something like 1/2" too long. So once the boards are mounted, there is a trench between each board. They are available in various widths and either nature, or artificially whitened, smooth or rough sawn.
But that aside - I chose the other type because I think they look better in a classic barn, and they were actually cheaper per square meter (or square foot if you like).
I mount the boards using regular nails. I know that a pneumatic nail gun is faster, but I actually like to hammer in nails, so I go for the slow and old fashioned way.
Once all the boards are mounted, I plan on putting some strips of wood in the corners and around the window sills, to cover the gaps.
Watch Guy Dunlap build our Hi Vise in this excellent video from our friends at Highland Woodworking.
Hi Vises are in stock and ready to ship.
Here is a Sjobergs Elite workbench with 3 days to go on E Bay. It looks like the 1500 mm size which is great for the garage workshop and comes with a useful storage module. These sell for around £1,400 new so a starting price of £750 is very reasonable. This one has a proper tail vice which is better than the full width vice of the current model.
Every step of making this dugout chair has been a little weird. Fastening its seat in place was no different. After cutting the seat to shape using using the help of ticking sticks, I rasped the rim of the seat until I could wedge it inside the trunk and get it level. I usually use a 6” spirit level for this task, but I left it at home. So I […]
Some folks think of hand planes as artifacts. Some consider them cute antiques. Others have the best of intentions to use them on a project some day.
I consider my hand planes to be time savers. They cut out sanding chores, they shave impossibly thin shavings so I can fit joints together perfectly, they smooth and flatten. I would be lost without my kit of hand planes. Their roles in the shop has increased even as my number of machines have. They can do chores that machines cannot.
Saturday we host another workshop at the Studio on Handplanes: Tuning and Using. Join us for the quiet satisfaction of tuning and then using a hand plane. Can’t beat it.
I Laugh in the Face of Tapered Compound Angled Mortises
The process of boring the tapered mortises for the legs is a lot simpler once you just do it. You will hear lots of talk about rake and splay angles and resultant angles and sight lines. Some internet searching will yield any number of results on how to bore the angles using mirrors and lasers and by standing on one leg after 3PM on a Tuesday. The way I was taught during my first Windsor chair was much less angles and precision, and mostly eyeball and feeling my way through it. Even today with so much great instruction on the subject that didn’t exist 10 years ago I still find Windsor construction to be a very organic and forgiving style of construction.
I say all of this to urge you to suspend the questions for a minute and just bore some holes. Using the seat pattern that Peter Galbert so helpfully provided we know the location of the sight lines, the location of the holes, and the resultant angles. So grab a bevel gauge and an auger bit and go to it. Remember that the reamer can correct a lot of disparity that may result while you bore your holes.
Reaming Tip Not Covered in the VideoI neglected to talk about this in the video and frankly I got lucky when my workbench intervened and stopped my reamer from going any deeper. Remember that while you are reaming that you do want to maintain the diameter of the hole on top of the seat. The tenons have been rounded down to a minimum diameter of 1/2″
but if you keep pushing the reamer will widen the hole all the way through and you will have to drive your legs in so far that you will shorten the legs unnecessarily. So keep an eye on the depth of the reamer and if appropriate but a stop block underneath your seat to ensure you don’t widen the holes on the top of the seat too much.
Next Live Broadcast
12 PM on Saturday 11/4/17
I carve the seat so that it delicately cradles my posterior
Octagonal Legs?Don’t want turned legs? How about tapered octagonal legs often found in Welsh Stick Chairs?
|quiet time work|
|walnut banding is solid|
|very snug fit|
|marked the connection|
|tight on the left and some daylight on the right|
|rounded over the lid banding|
|rounded over the top of the lid|
|first knob choice|
|3 more knob choices|
|found some feet|
|going to make a walnut handle|
|fixing the Disston 6" square|
|half laps on the legs done|
|I had to plane one leg square, the other one was sawn square|
|here you can see the tilt in it|
|I wanted parallel|
|had to make a pit stop|
|got my point back|
|decided to sharpen the iron on my new blockplane|
|10 strokes on the 80 grit runway|
|got a hump|
|I'll keep it in here for now|
|replacements for the hasp|
Update: Found a solid brass one from House of Antique Hardware and I almost skipped on it. S/H was $3 less than the sash lift.
|the back for the plumbline stick|
What is hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia?
answer - a fear of the number 666
We’ve just posted a new video at Crucible Tool’s blog on how to create two additional (and useful) tip shapes for your dividers. One tip is designed specifically for scribing arcs. The other is for cutting inlay or recesses.
While we show these tips on our Improved Pattern Dividers, they can be created on any pair of dividers.
Also in the short video, Raney demonstrates a down-and-dirty way to harden and temper the tips with a torch.
— Christopher Schwarz
Filed under: Crucible Tool, Uncategorized