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Hand Tools

plow plane box pt III.......

Accidental Woodworker - Wed, 08/30/2017 - 1:57am
I'm making good progress with the plow plane box. After what I got done tonight, I know that this will done before the weekend. All that is left is making the lid and the doo-dads for holding the parts in the box. This will join the herd of the other boxes I have made for tools. Each one is different and that is how I can tell what tool is in what box. At least for now as my memory is still pretty much intact.

cut the bottom to width on the tablesaw
sawed the length by hand and squared it up
set my rabbet plane for the width
practice groove from yesterday
I can use this same board to check the rabbet on the bottom.

snug fit
I have taken this as far as I want to with the rabbet plane. Overall I did ok with it. My corners didn't come out flush but the fit in the groove was consistent all the way around. From eyeballing down them they also appeared to be square with no obvious slope at the edge up or down.

I'm going to sweeten the fit with the tenon plane

self supporting on all four sides
This is a good fit but I will take a few more shavings to loosen it just a bit. I don't want it to bind when I put the box together.

self supporting with the box too
I am shooting for a fit that is self supporting but slowly will let gravity pull it apart.

Houston, we had a brain fart somehow
 This is not short. That would be like saying the Grand Canyon is a small ditch.

5/16" short
The far right mark is what it should be and the one to the left is what I measured last night. This first bottom is right on that measurement. I don't have a clue as to how I did this. This is the method I use to make all my bottoms that are captive in a groove. A minor set back and easy to recover from but it still sucks.

get this width right on the money
the first one fits on the length
I measured for the length and the width the same way. Why did one come out and other come up 5/16" short?

sawed and squared the new bottom
ran my gauge lines
I didn't need to run the depth line because the rabbet plane was still set to depth.

new bottom done

a look at the bottom - rabbet is 3/8 wide to minimize how much shows
getting ready to glue it up
Cleaning up the interior is a step that I sometimes forget to do.

used the ready made stuff
I like using this type of hide glue for dovetails. It gives me enough time to work slowly and get glue applied to everything. And still have time to reposition if necessary.

had it square
I squared the box and started to apply clamps to the front. After two clamps were on, the box went out of square. The joints are tight and I don't see any gaps so I squared the box again and left it as is till it sets.

has to be square
If this isn't square, fitting the sliding lid will be a lot of fun.

gaps on the dovetails on the interior
This is one aspect of dovetailing I seem to be going backwards on.

I can't complain about this fit
the difference in 6 years
The box on the right I sawed with a 14° Lee Valley dovetail sawing guide and a japanese style saw. The left one has dovetails at a ? angle that I sawed by hand with no guide. Both were chopped out with chisels. Practice makes a big difference in attaining any skill and I think I paid my dues.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a hesperidium?
answer - the fruit of a citrus tree (lemon,oranges,limes....)

The slab is done

Oregon Woodworker - Tue, 08/29/2017 - 10:51am
Having used the bottom as a learning experience, I enlisted some neighbors to help me turn the slab over and repeated the process on the top.  It was extremely time consuming and challenging.  There is a reason that people who do this commercially use a router sled.  I ended up removing 3/4" of material on a slab that is 40" wide and 8' long.  In the end, a power hand plane and a belt sander saw a lot of use.  I regret this but, by coincidence, learned that Chris Schwarz does the same thing for his Roubo benchtops.  His stock is half the width of mine.

Why do you have to remove so much material?  A slab like this will almost inevitably twist and cup.  Across its width you have vertical grain changing to flat sawn and back to vertical grain.  It basically has to cup.  The wild grain pattern associated with the huge knots almost guarantees that the slab will be "wonky."  That is its beauty.  During the course of this project I came to understand that there is an entirely different aesthetic at work here.  The cracks and knots are part of the tree's story.

I elected to use Arm-R-Seal to finish the slab, brushing it on the bark and using a cloth on the top.  I didn't want the "plasticky" look that you often see, the result of a thick hard finish.  Here is the result:

I am very pleased with the result.  It is unique and has character.  This is about as rustic as you can get short of just using the rough sawn slab as is.  It's certainly not for everyone.  Welcoming cracks, pitch pockets and knots is kinda weird I admit.

I got the ultimate compliment from the cable guy as I was applying the finish.  He admired it and said, "It looks like it belongs in a brewpub."  As it happens, I am a big fan of brewpubs and knew exactly what he meant.  Douglas-fir is our state tree, it played a central role in our history, it is fundamental to the beauty of our landscape and we like to keep it close.  Same with draft beer.  You can travel the world but you won't find a beer better than an Oregon IPA made with our own Cascade hops.  This table is going to see a lot of it.
Categories: Hand Tools

Pat Warner 1943 – 2017

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Tue, 08/29/2017 - 8:08am
Pat Warner
The passing of Pat Warner, July 28, 2017, should not go without tribute. His contributions to the techniques of woodworking is among the finest of our time based on his unsurpassed knowledge of the use of one of our most versatile woodworking tools, the router. He was truly an expert’s expert. Especially remarkable were his […] 4
Categories: Hand Tools

My Latest

The Barn on White Run - Tue, 08/29/2017 - 6:01am

The newest PopWood arrived int he mail recently and it contains my latest article for them.  If the topic interests you, I hope you will join me at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking where my workshop on parquetry will revolve around making and using these jigs.

plow plane box pt II........

Accidental Woodworker - Tue, 08/29/2017 - 1:34am
In april of 2011 I finally made my first dovetail box. I had started to teach myself how to do dovetails in feb of 2011 by making boxes. One crappy box after another. But one thing I noticed was that each one was a little less crappy then the preceding one. I still wasn't getting a complete box but I was closing in on it.  Tonight I dry fitted my umpteenth box and I thought back to the first one and how it made me feel.

I still have that box and every so often I take it out to look at and compare it to my latest one. I did that tonight. The joints on my first one look like the ones I did tonight. My confidence in myself to whack out a set of dovetails is way higher than then. I saw faster without hesitating and I  chop the pin/tail waste out almost nonchalantly now. I'm comfortable doing dovetails whether they are through or half blinds. I still get that feeling now everytime I put a box together off the saw.

prepping my chisels
When I layout my dovetails, I do them without checking to make sure a chisel mates up perfectly for chopping the pin and tails.  These 3 chisels will fit in all the pins and tails. I did a quick hone and a strop of them before chopping them out.

dry fitted
I didn't get it off the saw. I had to trim 4 pins before I got the corners home.

quick check on the contents fitting
I made this box a little tighter on the interior than I normally do. Everything fits without rubbing against it's neighbor and I don't see any problems with putting things in or taking them out.

one block doing triple duty
I plan on making a slot to hold the conversion fence (for irons larger then 3/8").  One hole for the brass screw and two holes for the fence rods to sit in. I'm thinking of using a block with a slot in it to hold the plane too. The box with the irons will probably hang out loose up against the back wall.

this is getting better too
One of first things I improved on was closing the gap on the half pins and I'm improving on my corners lining up. This is the top and it's about a 32nd shy? The other side is flush.

3 flush and 1 shy on the bottom
I flushed the bottom and checked it for twist. I left it in the clamps so I wouldn't have to take it out of them and put it back. No twist on the bottom.

I was having trouble seeing any twist by sighting over the sticks from the end of the bench.

there was a tiny bit of twist
The far left corner and the right front one are high. I took a couple of very thin see through shavings and checked it again. It took 3 dance steps before there was any joy and no twist.

set my distance from the edge and the depth
This plow plane is an absolute joy to use. After using the Record 405 (Stanley 45 equivalent) it's like going from riding a bike to driving a car. It is nimble, light, easier to set and change over and I find it so much easier to plow a groove with it.

plowed my grooves
I went with the grooves plowed straight on through. I like stopped grooves but I also like plugging the holes with a dark wood. The contrast between the white pine and walnut (if I have any) will look good. If I don't have walnut, I have some padauk I can use.

length for the bottom stick
I had the other side installed and I squared the both of them before I cut this stick to fit inbetween the grooves.

repeat for the short dimension
Tomorrow I'll make the bottom and hopefully get this glued up. I should have this done by the weekend at the latest.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the country once known as Burma now called?
answer - Myanmar

Correction on wedge description

Journeyman's Journal - Mon, 08/28/2017 - 8:07pm

A few blog posts ago I mentioned Thomas Walker’s wedge design for the moulding plane and that was a slip of tongue as I was writing the first issue of the magazine and I was doing an article on Thomas Walker.  Thomas was a clock maker and not a plane maker.

What I meant to say is Thomas Mooney design, so I’ve adding this design in case you prefer to be more period of appropriate.

Please note for Metric users that all my drawings are imperial.  My tools are imperial and therefore I match my drawings to the tools I use.  I know metric is as simple as counting 1,2,3 but it is what it is.  If you really wanted too you could convert all the measurements yourselves.  In the machine world I guess it would matter and you may need to redraw everything in metric but in the hand tool we only use measurements as a guide and every other piece is measured against each other if that makes any sense.

WEDGE A4 Imperial

Categories: Hand Tools

An Affair With Wood or a Lifetime’s Commitment?

Paul Sellers - Mon, 08/28/2017 - 11:19am

I wrote ‘woodworking‘ in the square, right after maths, Eng, Geog and P.E. I wasn’t sure what it meant to me, meant for me, I couldn’t see at all, but the first day in that bench-filled, wood-filled, tool-filled classroom was about to change the course of my school life. I felt it, smelt it, touched …

Read the full post An Affair With Wood or a Lifetime’s Commitment? on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

More Planes for Sale on E Bay

David Barron Furniture - Mon, 08/28/2017 - 9:50am

I'm clearing out a few more bargain planes.

Above a nice Spiers smoother which has been cleaned up well by a previous owner.

An old Spiers plane with original stamped iron in reasonable condition

A bargain Matheison smoothing plane that needs a bit of TLC

And below a nice Spiers No 23 smoother, a great user with a tight mouth.

Categories: Hand Tools

Precious Time

The Barn on White Run - Mon, 08/28/2017 - 5:19am

As we run-up this week to nuptials for Younger Daughter we were blessed with a visit from her last weekend. Much of the time she spent with Mrs. Barn doing wedding-y stuff, but she spent a few hours in the shop with me turning a bowl.  The wood for this bowl came from a plum tree in the Maryland house yard that died of natural causes some years ago (she remembers climbing the tree as a tyke), and I harvested the wood and set it aside for something special.  This definitely fits the description.

I had in recent months found the faceplate for the lathe and ordered a threaded insert from Woodcraft so it could be put to work.  Before she arrived I mounted the piece on the faceplate and roughed it round (she is not yet experienced enough to bring a really rough piece to round comfortably).  The lathe is a bit high for her, so in the early stages she was most comfortable with the scraper tucked in the armpit.  I will be building a lower base in the coming weeks.

I gave her only a few pointers as she developed the outer shape she wanted.

Before long she had the outer surface defined and embarked on an initial sanding and polishing.

With the base established and the shape determined it was time to remove the faceplate in favor of the small bowl chuck and get started excavating the interior.

Soon she was in pretty deep.

We stopped for the night, but on returning the next day she refined the shape and surface.

To be sure the watchful papa bear was never far from the action.  The working height was just plain awkward for her but she hung in there without complaint.

After the final shaping she moved to sanding and then polishing with beeswax melted into the surface, buffed with a linen rag while turning.  She particularly liked my method of placing a dry sponge between the hand and the sandpaper, it allows greater vigor with less heat.

And here it is, an heirloom with a priceless memory attached.  In all likelihood it was our final private time together with her as Miss Barndaughter until those moments just before I walk her down the aisle, and it was a precious treasure.

Doggone, something must’ve flown into my eye…


sunday shop work.......

Accidental Woodworker - Mon, 08/28/2017 - 1:34am
It was a beautiful day in my part of the universe. Bright sunshine, blue skies with fluffy clouds, and temps in the 70's with no humidity. I could take days like this 365 without any whimpering at all. But it won't last as fall is upcoming and than my 63rd winter. I'm getting old now that I can say, ".....55 years ago, I was ......" but I guess I'm lucky that I can still remember it too.

trying a bigger starter hole
 I tried one size up from 5/32 to see if a slightly larger starter hole would make a difference. I got the 12v cordless to work on tapping the hole. The key is to not go too long in one direction. Go down a little and back it off and repeat. Kind of like tapping metal and reversing to clear chips.

only got about an extra 1/8" with just my fingers
went up to the next sized hole
 Continuing with the wood tap and in an identical sized hole I will try a metal, 1/4-20 tap.

roughly half way but still not deep enough for finger work
the 1/4-20 wins
I can screw this all the way down and all the way out with just finger pressure.

this is still a good tap
This is a good tool but it won't work in the way I want it too. For making jigs and making a secure wood to wood connection with a metal screw or bolt, this wins over the 1/4-20 tap. Both have a place in my shop. I'll be using these taps when I install my hardware on the new workbench.

gaps to fill
 I am going to add a filler in the gap on the side that the 1/4-20 thumbscrew is. If not I could dish the 1/8" panel and possibly damage it. Up in the air as to whether or not the other one will be done.

sawing out a filler piece
flushed the plywood panels to the bottom
sized the filler side to side

set the marking gauge off the pencil line on the block of wood
ran my gauge line and I'm going to try and split off the waste
it worked much better that I expected it
I had to split off the waste by chopping it 1/2 way from the top and then the bottom.

planed it down to the gauge lines
it fits but it is too snug
I want a bit of daylight between the filler and the drill caddy block so it will slip in and out easily.

planed a bit more and glued it in place
slight round over on the top
finished it with some 100 grit sandpaper
much nicer feeling now
layout for the 1/4-20 and drilled a pilot hole through both
two different sized holes drilled next
A 17/64" hole for the thumbscrew in the cover and a 7/32 hole in the drill caddy for tapping it.

hole tapped
I started the tapping of the hole with the tap in the drill press. I went down just far enough to get it going straight and square and finished it by hand.

will they line up?
yes they did
this is going to work good for this
a coat of poly
I would have used shellac on this but the numbers on the drill caddy were done with a sharpie. Sharpie's ink is alcohol based and shellac smears it. After this first coat has dried overnight, I'll put on a few coats of shellac and this will be done.

new shelf for the finishing cabinet
It is just shy on the width of the cabinet and it is 2" longer than needed. I planed this top edge flat and square.

neither end is square
I sawed it to length about a 1/8" strong.

squared up the ends
It took a few dance steps involving plane and check the fit before it did.

new shelf done
I stuck the smaller width one that was here up behind the cabinet at the top. See the end sticking out?

sanded and planed the aris off
I am thinking of painting this the same color as the finishing cabinet but I'm going to hold off on it.  I don't know if the paint color will interfere with my sighting over the winding sticks.

lost the measurements for the box - height redone
length done
width done
double check on the width
height laid out
waste sawn off
4 box parts sawn
ran into a hiccup
I was having a few problems squaring the ends up on the box parts. The height wasn't parallel so I couldn't square the ends up and have the two match. Planing multiple parts to be the same width continues to slap me upside the head. Sometimes I nail it but most of the time I get a mismatch.

I ran all the box parts through the tablesaw to get them parallel. I was then able to square the ends and have them all match up and be flush with each other.

got my continuous grain flow around the box
The grain on this wood is not that pronounced but you can see it. Maybe it will pop a bit more when a finish is applied.

my first one
used it to check where the tails and pins go
prepping my chisels for the dovetailing
stopped here
Tails are chopped and the pins are sawn and the baselines have been knifed. All I have to do is chop them out. That will happen tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is boustrophedon?
answer - writing in alternate directions one line to the next (ie one line R to L and the next L to R)

Historic Finishing Workshop – Part 2

The Barn on White Run - Sun, 08/27/2017 - 1:39pm

With the foundation laid for good finishing it was time to move on to undulating surfaces, the kind of finishing that gives many woodworkers fits and nightmares.  Fortunately it is no more complicated or straightforward than finishing plain flat surfaces.  It’s all about surface prep, varnish prep, and tool selection.

Switching to the “carver’s model” polissoir the surfaces were burnished in preparation for varnishing.

Then, on to applying the varnish.  The true key to success is the right brush, a fine bristle watercolor “Filbert” with a rounded tip.

The Filbert allows for tremendously good “drape” of the bristles around the surface, not sqeegeing off varnish with the resulting runs like you might get with a square tip brush.

A few applications of the shellac varnish to these surfaces and they were ready to set aside, to be burnished with steel wool and waxed later on.

Next we revisited the luan panels we had started the day before, undertaking a light scraping with disposable razor blades followed by a brief but vigorous rubbing with 0000 steel wool.  I have found scraping to be not only historically accurate (obviously not with modern disposable razor blades, but the concept and practice are still the same) but now to be an integral component in my finishing process.

Then another inning of shellac application, followed at the end of the day by the third and final inning.  By then the surface was beginning to get some sparkle.

One last exercise was to finish a raised panel door.  I do not recall where these came from but they have served me well in this regard for many moons.  Again, a few applications of shellac followed by rubbing out with steel wool and paste wax yielded a luxuriant surface.

The large panels were rubbed out the third morning with steel wool and wax, and buffed with soft cloth.  The result was, as one participant said, “The best looking piece of luan ever!”

By mid-day on Sunday the party started breaking up, but the students left with a new confidence and a sharpened set of skills.  Folks may be reluctant to come to The Barn on White Run because of its remote location, but once here they always love it and go home with more knowledge and skill than they arrived with.  That’s not a bad outcome.

The Saw Project is Complete

Brese Plane - Sun, 08/27/2017 - 11:03am
When I walk into my shop I am immediately treated to the sight of several things that please me a great deal.  The first is my two workbenches. The Shaker Bench and the Nicholson Bench with turned legs. I also am treated to the site of my 1966 Powermatic 90 lathe that I enjoyed restoring a couple of years ago. There is also a restored Powermatic bandsaw, a 1958 Covel #10 surface grinder and the list goes on.

Workbenches, old American iron machine tools, my favorite hand tools. All these things are pleasing to my eye and inspired me to do work that is befitting of these tools.

There has been this one sore spot in my shop for quite a while that I've been meaning to do something about. The Grizzly table saw picture below is one that I purchased in 2004. Before I developed a taste for old American iron. There is really nothing particularly wrong with this saw that can't be resolved with new arbor bearings, belts and a considerable amount of tweaking. It has served me well but it just doesn't inspire me in the same way as my other tools. I removed the top a couple weeks ago to replace the arbor bearings. In the process it occurred to me this saw is basically an older model Delta Unisaw clone.

I always thought that I would find and purchase a 1940s, or 50's era Unisaw to restore, and add some upgrade features like a sliding table, improve the dust collection and be very happy, however it's beginning to be difficult to find those type saws in decent shape. I really didn't have time to bring one back from the dead, and besides, by the time I purchased the saw, performed the restoration and added the sliding table I would have been into the kind of money that would buy a new SawStop with flesh sensing technology.

In the same spirit that companies like Rousch will take a car and make it a much better car and then badge it with their name I hatched a plan to do the same with my table saw. I designed and ordered the new badge and placed an order for the sliding table.

So one recent Saturday morning I completely disassembled this saw. Literally all the way down to the base cabinet. By Sunday afternoon, and a lot of work later, all the parts that I intended to paint the same Sage Green color as my lathe, were painted the Sage Green color. 

 With the saw in pieces the opportunity to paint this saw was more than I could resist. I just couldn't see looking at the Grizzly green any longer.

 I realize color is a very subjective thing. It's the kind of thing in which you have to please yourself. I like the color scheme I used on my PM90 lathe a great deal and wanted to use the same scheme on this tool. One thing that made painting the cabinet easier than it would have been otherwise was the hammered type texture of the factory paint. In lieu of having the problems of painting very smooth sheet metal which will develop runs quite readily if you aren't very careful, the textured factory coating make this much more like painting cast iron.

I also acquired two 40 or 50's era Delta Unisaw hand wheels. The clunky cheap hand wheels on this saw were one of many the things I really disliked. 

Throughout the next week I cleaned and painted trunnion parts, stripped the paint off the fence tubing, and restored the hand wheels making sure not to disturb the beautiful patina on the rim.

When those details were completed I then turned my attention to detailing the new hardware. I like the black chrome look that can be attained by sanding, bluing and then applying wax and a nice polish on the heads the black oxide fasteners.

The following Thursday I started the painstaking process of re-assembling the saw. In the picture below I've installed the new badge (as far as I know there is no E/Z Toolworks, except in my mind). I've been told that I have a whimsical imagination at times.

 Putting the trunnion back into the saw is something that requires great care. It will have everything to do with how the rest of the assembly process goes and how well the movable parts of the saw will function. This was also the first opportunity to see how the hand wheels would look combined with the other details.

While installing the trunnion I discovered why some of the features of this saw worked as they did. Or didn't work as they should. During this process I made custom spacers, washers and whatever was necessary to make things right and well tuned. Having metal working tools at hand can be a real advantage at times such as this.

When installing the cast iron top I took great care aligning the mitre gauge slot to the blade in hopes that this would facilitate the installation of the sliding table attachment. The sliding table is the same one sold under many different brand names. Laguna, Shop Fox, Grizzly, etc. I have to say that I was impressed with the quality of this item. I did have to modify the holes where this piece mounted to the top of the saw in order to allow enough movement to align the critical surfaces.

Fortunately I don't have to depend on my table saw for breaking down sheet goods in the rare case that this need arises. I have a track saw for that task. This means I don't have to remove the mitre gauge from the sliding table. Once set it produces accurate and repeatable cuts and has a capacity of 48" which I doubt I'll ever need. The first task for the sliding table was to cut the table insert board for the right side of the saw top. It cut across the 16" width producing a dead square end.

Now that the saw was working I needed to make it safer to operate. I set about making the splitter shown in the picture below. It looks like a riving knife but it is attached to the insert and is adjustable by the two screws without removing the insert.  It is also easily removable.

With the amount of air I'm pulling thru the perforated insert I needed the guard to provide two function. Keep the saw dust in the insert area so it would be pulled into the dust shroud and to put something between the operator and the saw blade. I've had a couple mishaps with table saws in years past and when I go into a shop where the table saw blade is protruding uncovered by a guard it actually unnerves me just a bit. Fortunately I can still count to ten on my fingers but one of them looks a bit different than it used to.

This guard is rather adjustable and it's easy to put it in the correct position for any operation. The only downside is that I do find myself spending a considerable amount of time positioning it and for that reason it's a bit what I would call, "fiddly". It may require a bit of re-design. I'll noodle on that for a while.

 For a guy that does a lot of hand tool work you may think I've gone thru a lot to bring this saw to it's present state. Franky I'm getting on in years and I just can't spend as much time hand sawing as I have in the past and still make steady progress on my woodworking projects.

Now any issues with table saw function have been resolved. It has a much more pleasing appearance to me and it's one more thing that makes me happy when I walk into my shop. I've found the more things you have in your shop that make you smile the happier you are working there.


"I destroy my enemies when I make them my friends."
                                                                Abraham Lincoln

Categories: Hand Tools

Dentil Molding, Box & Knuckle Joints

360 WoodWorking - Sun, 08/27/2017 - 5:52am
Dentil Molding, Box & Knuckle Joints

What do dentil molding and box and knuckle joints have in common? If you look at the opening photo, you’ll get a hint. What do you see?

I’ll tell you what I see. I see a woodworking jig that is super easy to make in the shop, and is extremely accurate when properly constructed. And better yet, this jig is multi-purpose in so far as it is used to produce each of the items mentioned in the post’s title.

Continue reading Dentil Molding, Box & Knuckle Joints at 360 WoodWorking.

Perfect Jigs (Which are Handcuffs)

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sun, 08/27/2017 - 5:23am

After I learned to make stick chairs in a class, I returned home and set about to build jigs that would let me reproduce every aspect of the chair we built in class. I spent an entire week planning and building the jig shown in the photo above. Though it looks like a platform for holding Roman candles, it actually allowed me to drill four legs in a seat blank […]

The post Perfect Jigs (Which are Handcuffs) appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

saturday in pics.....

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 08/27/2017 - 2:48am
Today's output will be a pic post with captions like I did last weekend.  I got one project done, started another one, and finally expended some calories on planing the plow plane box boards to thickness. I ended my shop day by playing with some molding planes. All and all a good day in the shop.

screws to reinforce the brush box hangers
no back needed - the cabinet side will be the back
planed the door and the box until I got a seamless joint line - this is the hinge side
hinge from Ace Hardware - not too crappy for the $$$
fairly thick with a big hinge pin
I'm getting much better at installing hinges
the first of a couple of brain farts
I set the hinge on the wrong side of the tic mark.

brain fart #2 - hinged the door on the wrong side
I wanted the door to open going from the other side. This will still work because the door opens 180°.

hinges set and I marked the door for the overhang
the top and bottom aren't planed flush but the long side was
square and about a 32nd proud - this way I won't see the inside frame of the box with it closed
This was a huge PITA to get hung. Most of the headaches came from me working in a dark area and not being able to clearly see what I was doing. Reading the bubble on the level was almost impossible to see even with a flashlight. &&^#&**$!&*)(*&$#%^ cataracts.

got room for a couple of more brushes - I can hang some on the door too
one last problem - the bottom hinge is hinge bound - the door won't lay flat
I made the mortise too deep for this hinge. I put a couple of pieces of cardboard from a tissue box behind the hinge to build up the mortise.

magnetic catch
I have two of these on my medicine cabinet and I'm not impressed with them. The brush box door stays closed without a catch so I'll skip a catch on it for now.

drill caddy is next - scrap of ash and it needs 8 holes
needed help with the 10mm bit
I finally found a big drill bit that was a bit over 10mm. I wallowed the bit some as I drilled it to give some slop in the hole. It was a bit too snug drilled straight through.

holes done

drilled these two again - not enough slop for my liking
box slip on cover coming - plowed 1/8" grooves on both edges
I don't have anyplace to keep the drill caddy in the shop that would be safe. I don't want the bits getting damaged so I am making a slip on cover for the drill caddy.

fence is square to the ledge but the board is off square
squared the fence to plane
dead nuts square now
need a recess for the side to slip over the caddy
This will key the two parts together and keep the drill caddy from flopping around.

hand chopped the recess about an 1/8" deep
it's a loose fit
router got both recesses to the same depth
dry fit of the sides
slips over the drill caddy easily - there is no bottom on this
mitering the top
left the lines
planed to the same length
marking the top a bit long and I'll plane it to fit
what I have to plane off
dry fit is good and it is square - glued it up and set it aside
I will secure the half box on the drill caddy with a 1/4-20 thumbscrew
I have four different taps made specifically for making threads in wood.

I done threads in wood before with good results
comes with a chart
chamfered the top edge and the holes
#6 used first to get close to the lines
low area
I avoided planing this until I got the rest of the gauge lines to be close to this low spot.

switched to the #5 here, then the 4 1/2, and finally the #3
the thicknessing herd
both boards to thickness - tomorrow I can start to make the box
stickered overnight
Tomorrow these will be ready to start on the box. If all is well I will smooth the reference face with the #3 and make a box.

decided to make a practice run on this
had to switch drills
My 12v cordless couldn't handle drilling the tap in and out. It went in to this point and gave up. It wouldn't back it out or go down further. The corded drill didn't have any problems running the tap in and out of this ash.

as far as I can get it with my fingers - about a 1/4"

had to use pliers to get in this far and back it out
I don't think this this tap is made for use where the screw/bolt is to be removed on a regular basis. I may have to come up with another option of this.

looks a half of  an astragal profile
back of the iron - pretty clean
front of the iron - not very sharp but relatively clean

I know this has a quirk but not I'm sure what the name of this profile is
back of the iron
the front - looks sharp but it isn't
this is what matters the most
In my limited experience with molding planes I have found that dull is not a deal killer. What is, is the iron and the sole match up. This iron is on the dull side but it still planed the profile and the match between the iron and the sole is real good.

found another plane with the same profile but smaller
bottom left and top right
I don't see enough of  difference to see the need to have both of these.

 burr on the back
looks like this side has some kind of bluing on it
it looks ratty looking but it is in pretty good shape
the boxing on the back of the mouth is loose
This side I can pull it out and the other one, just up and down a little by the mouth. Both of these are easy to fix.

couldn't get the profile
This plane has no spring lines nor an edge to ride against the edge of the board. Maybe this one is meant to be used with a fence or against a molded edge?

worse looking iron so far
back side - ten minutes on the stones and this will look totally different
what is stamped on the plane
This plane has my attention - how do you plane a profile with it?
tried using the bevel on the edge and got nowhere
I will rehab this one first because I want to figure out how to use it.  And this was the end of my day in the shop on saturday.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the only bird that can fly backwards?
answer - the hummingbird

Amusements From an Auction.

The Furniture Record - Sat, 08/26/2017 - 8:39pm

With everything going on out there, I thought it might be nice to look at a few (slightly) amusing things I found at a recent auction. First up is this chair:

Pair of Venetian Carved Oak Curule Chairs

Description: Mid 20th century, relief carved crest rail with arms terminating in lions heads and rings, raised on ball and claw feet, crest rail detaching to allow chair to fold.

Size34 x 24 x 19 in.

Note: Purchased by consignor in Venice.


This lot has sold for $250. (Pair)

We’ve all seen various versions of this chair and wondered what’s its story.  From Wikipedia:

curule seat is a design of chair noted for its uses in ancient and Europe through to the 20th century. Its status in early Rome as a symbol of political or military power carried over to other civilizations, as it was also utilized in this regard by Kings in Europe, Napoleon, and others.

My question: Does it fold?



And the lions match:



Next, we have:

Antique English Oak Tantalus

Description: Circa 1900, oak case with silverplate mounts, locking hinged handle releases three cut glass decanters.

Size13 x 14 x 5 in.


This lot has sold for $320.

An attractive and interesting way to carry and display your best liquor. Then you notice the lock on the handle:


It won’t prevent theft but it might reduce pilferage.

Again, from Wikipedia:

Tantalus is a small wooden cabinet containing two or three decanters. Its defining feature is that it has a lock and key. The aim of that is to stop unauthorised people drinking the contents (in particular, “servants and younger sons getting at the whisky”),[1]while still allowing them to be on show. The name is a reference to the unsatisfied temptations of the Greek mythological character Tantalus.

Not to be confused with Tantalus, a Greek mythological figure, most famous for his eternal punishment in Tartarus.

(Also, not to be confused with the Tantalus Field of the original Star Trek, season 2, episode 4, Mirror, Mirror. Bad Kirk)

And finally, this:

Cast Bronze Figure of a Rabbit

Description: Late 20th century, patinated bronze, possibly Maitland Smith, unmarked.

Size: 16 in.


This lot has sold for $150.

What was he holding? Could it be a Confederate rabbit? A Federal rabbit?

August 1914, a Family Mystery Solved.

Tico Vogt - Sat, 08/26/2017 - 6:26am

The first blog entry about my father’s inventing career (September 2011) was titled “Covington, Kentucky, A Family Mystery.” (Click here to read it.) My sister, Sarah Vogt, and I were beginning to document the timeline of his personal and professional life. His scrap book from high school, college, and three years following had recently been sent to me by my (now late) half sister, Emily Postma. There were no clarifying remarks or dates on the photos, and they weren’t necessarily in chronological order. There was a letter of introduction to a bank in England and a photo of him (on the right) sitting with an unknown gentleman.













The post raised a question as to why he was making a transatlantic voyage in 1914- was it specific to his delay detonation device for missiles (click here to read about it), a topic also being researched?

The story has since been filled in and this post is an update. The military patent came later, and this trip was to advance his knowledge of refrigeration, with visits to refrigerating manufacturers (presumably) in France and Germany.

From a publication called “Ice and Refrigeration” under the heading “Frigerous Particulars” (August 1914) was this announcement:

“Clarence W. Vogt, of the Henry Vogt Machine Company, Louisville, KY, sailed July 13 on the S.S. New Amsterdam to visit the various icemaking and refrigerating plants in Europe.”

Little did he know how short- lived his visit would be, and of the earth shaking event whose beginning he would witness first hand.

The following nine pictures are scanned from his scrap book. The first is of an unmarked liner.

The next is of an automobile showroom with the name BENZ. The details are clearer on the actual photograph.

The next four images are from a seaside location where bathhouses on wheels were rolled into the surf.

Cars and women in swimsuits. Welcome, 20th century!

The final three are taken at an outdoor market. As I woodworker, I am drawn to the crates, boxes, and wine cart.










































































































































































































We have no specific information as to his initial travels once he reached Southampton, or his proposed itinerary. We do know, from oral history, where he was on August 4, 1914:

“One evening when I was a child, Daddy told me many stories about experiences he’d had in wartime Europe. His stories were so vivid that I have remembered the details very clearly (even though I wasn’t old enough then to have any real understanding). Here’s one. Daddy told me that he’d gone to Europe to study advances in refrigeration. One night, when he was attending a ‘dance hall’ in Belgium, the music stopped. And over the PA system came the announcement that the Germans were invading their country at that very moment!! The questions that I have for him now!” – Sarah Vogt.

The Rape of Belgium was soon to follow.




















He then joined the mad scramble of thousands of Americans fleeing the continent. The Louisville Journal, Sunday August 16th, had front page stories of accounts of:

“The Plights of Louisvillians Stranded in Europe by the Invasion 2 Aug’14.”

“Escape Russia On Last Train” “Harrowing Journey Across The Frontier To Berlin” “Miss Ada Lewis Hart Writes of Race For Safety” “Louisville Feminine Party Arrives In London” “Hasty Departure. Letter Gives Experience Of Louisville Party In Paris.”

Among the listings is “Three Arrive From Europe. Miss McGill, Miss Maloney and Clarence Vogt Now In New York.”















“Clarence W. Vogt, who was touring abroad, arrived Wednesday night on the Philadelphia, according to a communication received from him yesterday. Mr. Vogt stated he had been forced to travel in the steerage of the liner for a part of the voyage from Southampton, from which port the Philadelphia sailed August 6th. He said that he managed, however, to get into the first cabin on the second day out. He is now stopping at the Knickerbocker, in New York, but will leave to-day for a short visit to his mother in Bay View, Mich., after which he will return home.”

A few things to note about the above. My father’s personal force and drive were such that the poor steward on the ship Philadelphia had no chance- place my father in steerage? He was lucky not to have been tossed to the waves.











My father’s youngest brother, Alvin, was a fraternity brother at Princeton University of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s and they gambled together at the Knickerbocker Hotel.

My grandfather, Adam Vogt, had built a home in Bay View, Michigan, renowned for the freshest air in America, as a summer residence at the Chautauqua retreat for my grandmother in particular, to escape the brutal Louisville summer heat and humidity.






















Clarence’s arrival in Michigan was confirmed by this telegram announcement:

















He returned to life with his young wife, Ruth (née Duncan) in Louisville and continued work for the HVMC. When the US went to war, he was called up in the first draft, by-passed boot camp, and went directly as vice-lieutenant to the Frankford Arsenal in Philadelphia where he solved the technical issues on the delay detonation device for missiles. From there he went to serve in France as a captain in the in 4th Ordnance Heavy Artillery. More on this in a later post.


brush box pt 1.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 08/26/2017 - 12:36am
Is winter coming early? It has gone from hot and muggy days to cool nights. The last two nights were in the high 50'sF (13°C). Tonight is supposed to dip down to 55°F. Labor day is right around the corner which means 6 more weeks and the trees will be turning colors and dropping leaves. I like the seasons here in New England but I can't wait until I'm retired so I won't care what is on the ground.

24" x 30" 9mm (3/8") plywood
I got this from Woodcraft and it was $13and change. I could have gotten a smaller piece but what I don't use for the plow plane box I'll save for later boxes.

I got asked why plywood for the bottom and not solid wood. After all I'm a wanna be hand tool woodworker? I plan on gluing blocks in the box to hold the plane and the two fences. With plywood I can ignore expansion and contraction issues. I can also ignore any potential problems with any cross grain gluing. Plywood gives me freedom to position gluing blocks wherever I need them. I think the plywood bottom will be stronger too.

from last night
After I had glued up the box last night, I came back to the shop to check it out. I had noticed when gluing it that it was twisted a lot more than I wanted it to be. So 30 minutes later I clamped the box down to a board and let that set up until tonight. Now is the moment of truth and will the box still be flat on the board?

I got lucky
I was not expecting this to work this well. I looking for some spring back when the clamps came off but I got none. I flipped the box over onto the other side and it laid flat there too.

plenty of room
I knew it would be way too long but it's good to see all 3 fit side by side.

it's eventual home
Next batter is how to keep on the side of the cabinet?

it isn't laying flat anymore
I planed the top and bottom and it looks like I planed some twist back into it.

this confirmed the twist
Both sides were twisted at the same corners. I got rid of one side fairly quickly but this side is throwing a hissy fit. I want to minimize how much I remove so that I don't plane too much and thin the half pins anymore than I have to.

halved the twist check
Three trimming runs and I still had a bit of twist. The far right corner was reading high. On this half check there is no twist. The 1/2 check to other end has twist. It took two plane trimming dance steps to get rid of it.

checked the long sides too
I wasn't expecting twist this way and I was mostly checking for a hump. I had neither of them.

bottom fitted
I want to secure the box to the cabinet side at the top and bottom. I will glue two pieces of wood in the box and screw them to the cabinet securing the box flat and tight.

sawing out the top one
The bottom one is a 1 1/2" wide but the top one is 2 1/4" wide. The top one will doing double duty. One it will be holding the box up and two, it will be where the brushes will hang from.

the twisted board from the plow plane box
The width is almost perfect and the length is over about 4" or so. I'll try using it as the door for this because it is shop project.

it makes a difference which face is up
gap here and at the bottom short edge
opposite face up
It isn't perfect but more that adequate to use. It is laying flat with almost no gap 360 with this face up (the reference face). We'll see if there is any change come tomorrow when I hinge it.

my hinge choices are a bit slim
I only have one of the brass hinges and that is what I really wanted to go with. The no mortise hinges leave a gap whereas the brass one won't. The no mortise hinges tend to get hinge bound because the countersink for the screw head is too small and it won't allow the hinge to close up flat.

another hiccup
The hinge is a bit wider than the edge which will make it a fun adventure to install. If I make the right edge flush with the interior, the two middle screws will be to close to the outside edge. The brass hinge isn't without it's problems with the biggest one being it's stamped. That makes it flimsy but it should be alright for this light weight door. I'll have to make pit stop at Ace Hardware and see what they have for sale.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is a gyne?
answer - A female social insect (bee, wasp,ant,etc) that has the potential to become a reproductive queen.

Did you like Issue 2?

Journeyman's Journal - Fri, 08/25/2017 - 4:15pm

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