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donkeys dry fitted......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 10/01/2017 - 3:17am
It didn't look like I was going to get this far this morning. I had stopped by Lowes to check on a few things and I ended up buying a few things. I couldn't pay for them because I forgotten to take my wallet with me. That meant going home, finding the wallet, (it was on the floor), and returning to Lowes to buy the goodies. It took me a while to light the fires in the motivation furnace after that adventure and finally get my butt down to the shop.

unplanned goodies from Lowes
I had stopped at Lowes on the way home from work (OT) to check on getting some Formica. I need to build my 'real' stand up desk done for work. The one I'm using now needs to be updated (too small in the width). Anyways, when I get to Lowes there is no one to help me find the where they hide the Formica. So I wandered around looking where I think it would have been but I came up dry. So I went looking for casters.

I had looked for them on line but the selection had nothing I wanted. I wanted a 2" or smaller wheel rated for at least 50lbs (27 kilos) and Lowes had a quite a few to pick from. I grabbed four steel wheeled casters that were rated for a 100 lbs (45 kilos) each. As I was walking away with these, I spied the ones I did buy. These are 51mm (2") wheels with a some kind of a poly wheels. These are rated for 91lbs each (41kilos) and this should be more than adequate for the toolbox.

I got some 5/4 pine to make a dolly with. I had got a good suggestion on buying one and I was going to do that but when I saw the right casters in Lowes I changed my mind. I bought two 8' x 4" boards. I could have made the dolly out of one board but I got two so I can work around the knots. It is something you can't avoid with pine.

new pattern for the top of the uprights
it's not a circle
I started with a circle and changed it by marking another line inside that and making it a bit flatter. I like this better than a round ball look from a circle.

foot pattern
I can put this so the knot is on the foot but I think that would always visible. I'll be using the donkeys by looking down onto them and seeing the knot.

where do you put the knot
After placing a scrap in the position of the bearer I went with it here. It's too big to remove with a chamfer so I'll live with it as is. And with stock on the bearer the knot won't be visible.

laying out the tenons
 I used this knife for the whole donkey project. It felt a little funny size wise but I haven't encountered any problems with it yet. I'm sure using it will be old hat with a few more projects under my belt.

foot detail changed
I moved the foot in from the edge about a 1/4" which made the slant at the bottom slightly bigger. It isn't a huge detail and you may have to stare at for a while to pick it out.

top bearer mortises laid out

bottom stretcher mortises were the last of the layout work
sawing out the tenons
It's been a while since I sawed tenons and it showed. Doing these is nothing like not riding a bike for a while and getting on it later and pedaling away. I'm glad that I don't saw tenons to fit off the saw.

first M/T done
I used a router to trim the cheeks until I got it to fit  snugly into the mortise.

cheek fit is good but the ends need help
second one done
yikes
Got good contact with the cheeks but the ends on this one are worse than the one above.

I feel like this was the first time ever for sawing tenons
These cheek cuts look like crap and they are all over the place. The only good thing I can say about them is that all the wandering luckily happened on the waste side.

removed the ski jump from the pic above with a big ass chisel
I didn't want to remove that much waste with my router. I still don't have the skill Mr Sellers has with trimming tenon cheeks to fit with a chisel. I can do humps and ski jumps though.

done and it's critique time
3 are snug fitting and self supporting
one is loose
I am approaching M/T work the same way I did when I learned dovetailing.  When I first started doing them I made a lot of crap but eventually some parts of it starting looking better. With time and lots of practice I think I finally got a handle on dovetailing and I will do the same with M/T work. I see some crap but I see some good with my M/T work today.

all the shoulders look this good
edges look ok too
Two them have an errant over shoot from the saw but the lines are tight. These short shoulders were something I struggled with taming. I got the longer face ones first but these short side ones for some reason I was sawing long and then swung the other way and sawed them short. I think what eventually helped me with them was sawing 1/2 pins with dovetailing. I went through the same dance steps with them.

the 3 snug fitting cheeks
The end cuts need some help. I am obviously not chopping them square. I did ok on chopping the cheek walls square and I got a uniform width on them.

the loose one
I consider this a D. The cause of this was the dreaded 'I had to take on more swipe' with the router because I thought it was too snug. I ended up with the loose cheek fit and big gaps on the ends. I didn't come close to winning on any them.

Overall these joints will work because I am going to draw bore them. Draw boring is like putty, both will hide a lot of sins. I would not try to just glue these because of the bad end cuts I made. I think that they would move and eventually fail. I give myself a C on the overall output.

it seems I have a pizza box of veneer
I have to fix this loose tenon even if I am draw boring it. I don't know what kind of wood this veneer is. I'm going with it is light colored like the tenon is.

cut it out with the marking knife and ruler
need two
I thought I could get away with one but it was still a bit loose. Better fitting, but it still wasn't self supporting. Self supporting is my goal for a M/T joint

with both pieces it is self supporting
I glued the veneer onto both sides of the tenon and set it aside.

making the mortises for the bearers and the stretchers
I am drilling out some of the waste with a forstner bit. The mortise is a 1 1/2" wide and the bit is 1 1/8".

3 chisel line up
I felt comfortable chopping these by hand. I have a lot of these under my belt with all the bookshelves I made previously (24 of them).

self supporting
I had to mark the mortises again. After I had chopped the first one, I was off about a 1/8" in the width when I offered the bearer to the mortise. I knifed a new line on either side of the mortise and chopped it out.

getting an even depth
I did pretty good on chiseling to depth using the holes I drilled but the router removed all doubt.

tapping the veneered tenon and mortise together
first one dry fitted
knifing a new line
I had only made a pencil line for the outside of the mortise so I didn't have to deal with a double knife line. I added roughly a a fat 32nd on each side. My top to bottom knife walls were dead nuts on.

both dry fitted
Almost done. I will do the feet and upright detail sawing tomorrow and then glue them up. I'm thinking of painting them the same color I used on the tool box.

it's about a 1/4" higher
I had to measure the two donkeys to see if I had screwed up. Both of them are 28 1/2" and the new one is sitting on a high spot on the floor.

I like the new ones
The 4x4 donkeys are very strong and I'll use them when I make my new workbench. For everything else I'll use the new ones. And I'm still going to think of way to make a set of these that knock down.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Which US President founded the Springfield Armory in Massachusetts?
answer - George Washington founded it in 1777 during the American Revolution

Pollywog - Kaulquappe

Old Ladies - Pedder's blog - Sun, 10/01/2017 - 2:38am
Seit mehr als einem Jahr areite ich malc wieder an einer Kaulquappe. Das geht so schön fix..

Since more than a year I'm working on a plooywog. That is fast work compared with a classic handel.


Categories: Hand Tools

Making an infill plane from scratch 9, rear infill.

Mulesaw - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 10:03pm
The front infill had a really nice and tight fit yesterday, but apparently the wood is not completely dry, because it has shrunk a bit since then. Not much, but I can clearly feel a difference in the fit. I hope it won't matter too much, but I usually have problems with wood expanding at our place, so it might just end up perfect at home.

To make the rear infill, I sawed out a piece of Bubinga and flattened one side that would serve as a reference for the lay out. This was the lower side of the infill.
Next one side was squared up and finally the last side was made parallel and square too.

Following this I marked out a 50 degrees angle on the forward part of the infill, which will eventually become the frog or bedding for the blade.
If I had had a protractor out here I would probably have used it, but I dont. So with the help of a bit of math and a tangent function I was able to do the job anyway.
After marking up I sawed close to the line with a hacksaw. The surface was then sanded completely flat going through the grits with the sand paper placed on a flat piece of thick aluminum plate.

The block of wood was placed inside the base of the plane and the contours of the side were marked on the wood with a pencil.
The block was removed and a hacksaw was again used to saw near the lines to remove the bulk of the waste.
After sawing, the block went back in, and the assembly was clamped in the vice and the wood was brought down to be flush with the sides using files and sandpaper.
Just like with the front tote, I left the rear infill a bit long. This will be trimmed of later.
Making a rear tote is the next part of the project.

Rear infill and front tote.

Rear infill seen from above.


Categories: Hand Tools

Wedges in multiple through-mortise-and-tenon joints

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 8:23pm
Wedges in multiple through-mortise-and-tenon joints
The usual directive is to flare the end grain mortise walls and wedge the tenons against those walls, as in the photo above. With the opposite configuration, which has the side grain mortise walls flared, there is reasonable concern that the wedges might exert pressure across the grain of the mortised board sufficient to split […] 0
Categories: Hand Tools

Nostalgia or No?

Paul Sellers - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 12:34pm

My working with hand tools has nothing to do with a reluctance toward living in a post modern world; just so you know. I’m just thankful I do, and that I feel to a balanced degree I’ve been able to embrace it. I always like seeing old workshops with wood leaning against rustic walls and […]

Read the full post Nostalgia or No? on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools

Farewell, old friend

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 11:26am

IMG_2262[1]

As woodworkers, we tend to think about trees most often in the context of wood. But a living tree is habitat, safe perch, shady spot, daily carbon dioxide sink, and more.

Trees also bear fruit. Until I moved to Indiana, persimmons were novelties: fat juicy globes with exotic names such as Fuyu and Hachiya. Then, one October, a boyfriend proposed a weekend paddle on Lake Monroe (yes, he’d made his own canoe) to a spot rich with persimmons. We filled a couple of shopping bags with squishy fruit and paddled back to the truck. He showed me how to make pulp and shared his grandmother’s recipe for pudding.

sept-2012-persimmon-milling-e1347832429672

Milling persimmons for pulp is a time-consuming process but well worthwhile.

When we pulled the glass dish out of the oven, the kitchen filled with sweet, spicy steam. We let the pudding sit a while to firm up while we whipped some cream. Slice, serve, dollop. Heaven.

Persimmon pudding

Somewhere on the texture spectrum between jello and brownies lies the traditional Midwestern treat persimmon pudding.

Much smaller than their Oriental cousins, our native persimmons are packed with nutrients: 127 kcal per 100 grams of raw fruit (compared to 70 kcal for the same amount of Japanese persimmon, Diospyros Kaki), 33.5 grams of carbohydrate (compared to 18.59), 0.8 grams of protein (versus 0.58), as well as higher than the Japanese persimmon in fat, calcium, and iron. I offer this comparison not as an exercise in nationalism, but to help explain why the peoples native to this land considered putchamin an important food.

sept-2012-persimmon

The fruit of Diospyros Virginiana, the persimmon native to eastern and Midwestern states, is generally considered unfit to eat until it has fallen on the ground. Bite into an unripe fruit and you’ll experience a serious tannin pucker.

+++

A couple of years after my first taste of persimmon pudding I was looking for an affordable property where I could have a workshop. The first place I visited fit the bill and came with a bonus: an old persimmon tree on the front lawn and a couple more on the fence line.

Fast-forward fourteen years. After feeding many a deer (and two of my dogs) and giving us fruit for countless puddings, the old tree in our front yard finally gave up the ghost last winter. We had plenty of advance notice: fewer leaves each spring, more limbs dropped per thunderstorm. Of course it’s not really gone: Persimmons spread through their roots to form groves. Several daughter trees are growing to maturity in the garden.

IMG_2263[1]

Two of the daughters took root next to each other, on opposite sides of the garden path. I’ll continue pruning them so that they’ll eventually form an arch.

A large dead tree in the front yard is hardly attractive. “Can we please cut it down?” I asked my husband last spring. I wasn’t asking for permission; he’s the one who uses a chainsaw. I’ll use industrial shop equipment any day, but chainsaws terrify me. “No,” he said; “it offers wild birds refuge from Louis [the shop cat].” Spring turned to summer, and concern for the birds’ safety turned into “Taking that tree down is going to be a huge project. Do you have any idea how much work it’s going to be, cleaning up those limbs?” Clearly not a job for the itchy, sweaty months. Now that fall is here (if tentatively), we’ll take it down and give some of the wood to our friend Max Monts to turn into bowls, because as many readers will already be aware, persimmon is related to ebony.–Nancy Hiller, author of Making Things Work

+++

Here’s that recipe.

grandma-dixons-pudding-recipe


Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Customer Dovetails at EWS

David Barron Furniture - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 4:12am

A few of you may have spotted Ian on my stand demonstrating my guide while I took a much needed refuelling break. Whilst Ian is an experienced demonstrator, I did rather throw him in at the deep end, sorry about that!

Ian cuts all his dovetails freehand and is seen here demonstrating at a show back in Japan where he lives. And this is the result, a fine pile of 'Paul Sellers' boxes.
This reminds me I must try to think of something more imaginative than cutting endless single corners!

Here is Ian's freehand version of one of my corners, perfect!


Categories: Hand Tools

Braces & Drills with Ron Herman

360 WoodWorking - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 4:10am
Braces & Drills with Ron Herman

Ron Herman discusses woodworking braces, including terminology, sizes and chuck designs. Plus, he shares his take on hand-powered drills as he identifies a small assortment of tools still available at garage sales, flea markets and tool swaps.

Continue reading Braces & Drills with Ron Herman at 360 WoodWorking.

saw donkeys pt VI (?).......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 09/30/2017 - 12:33am
This morning when I left for work it was rather nippy. I briefly thought about going back into the house and getting a jacket. But if I did that it would be too warm to wear when I quit work. It never ceases to amaze how quickly the weather can change. Yesterday warm and sweating in the shop and today it was cool and no sweating in the shop.

I got my time allotment in the shop tonight but there isn't a lot of pics. The verbiage will be matching the pic count too. The saw donkeys are moving along and I think I'll get them done this weekend. I made another change to them, no knock down. Being lighter and easier to move than my 4x4 donkeys, I'll have to put up with stowing as is. That is because I couldn't think of way to knock them down that I liked.


got the second mortise done
I had plenty of time left so I started in on the 3rd one.

ends are OTL
The ends on each succeeding mortise were worse then the one before. By the time I got to my third one, not only did they have humps, they were also slanted. I had done my ruler trick to check for a hump and after the third one I checked it with a square.  I got square on one side and a slant on the other even though the ruler said no hump. I assumed that no hump also equated to flat and square too.

got the remaining 3 done
I was going to stop after the 3rd one and do it tomorrow. But I had more the twenty minutes to go before quitting so I did it. I think in hindsight I should have waited because I rushed it and paid the piper.


yikes
I was trying to get the end flat, straight and square to the edges. I got the opposite one done ok but this is the one I rushed to finish. This isn't a loss as I can still get a tenon in here and make it secure. I am going to draw bore and pin this so that will make up for some of this slop. The cheeks are as good as the first one I did so I will get a good glue bond with that. So some good and some bad.

I'm using and changing this
This is what I was going to do instead of chopping the 4th mortise - make a new pattern.  I don't like the square top look of the uprights and this is the winning profile. I'll use this with a minor change, hence the need for a new pattern. The two flats on each side are history. They are magnets for chipping and breaking off and I don't like the look. The plan is to just spread out the profile above the flats out to the edges.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
It was the top rated variety show of all time and last aired on TV in 1971. What was it?
answer - the Ed Sullivan show

My favorite bandsaw blade

Heartwood: Woodworking by Rob Porcaro - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 10:22pm
Supercut bandsaw blade
Readers of this blog know of my fondness for the bandsaw. More than almost any other tool in the shop, a fine quality bandsaw allows you to upgrade your range of designs and unlock the wonders of wood. With that in mind, here is my favorite bandsaw blade – the one that is almost always […] 0
Categories: Hand Tools

Not Exactly MGM…

The Barn on White Run - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 7:09pm

Mrs. Barn calls it ADD, I call it Hyper-curiosity.  Whatever it is, it means that sometimes I have a tough time turning my brain off, which in turn has an ancillary side effect of insomnia.  And, an inability to concentrate fully when I’m watching a movie or such (tonight it’s an Eastwood bullet-fest — obviously Mrs. Barn is out of town) and I usually have a note pad nearby to capture my fragmented musings.  A few of these and I have an idea, a few ideas and I have  concept, and a concept usually turns into a project of some sort.

Here are some landmarks on the conceptual map that is taking shape for one possible future project for The Barn based on observations, whimsy, and experience.  Consider the following:

  1. I’ve had the amazing opportunity over a great career spanning almost five decades that enabled aggressive learning and allowed/required creative, interdisciplinary  problem solving
  2. I retired five years ago with plenty of fuel left in the tank.  Since then I’ve published three books (with at least five more manuscripts in the pipeline, maybe even as many as a dozen if I get back to writing fiction), filmed three videos, and created a unique exhibit.
  3. Now freed from the immediacy of most deadlines (I’m still writing a ton, but the deadlines of the Roubo and Studley books were imminent and the Studley exhibit deadline was inflexible) and recovered from two serious injuries, I can now let my mind wander and creative juices flow unfettered

4. I have a big barn in a beautiful setting and have been encouraged to organize workshops to pass on what I learned over the years.  Those who have attended the workshops give me great feedback about the experience and the setting.

5. But, most folks are unwilling to come to The Barn for workshops, for what ever reason; distance, remoteness, time, topic.  Last summer two of the four workshops I had scheduled were cancelled due to lack of interest, this year it was three of five scheduled workshops cancelled.  I will probably never cease offering them, maybe just a couple every summer, but it’s pretty clear workshops at The Barn are likely not a big part of the equation going forward..

6. I still enjoy greatly transmitting to willing learners the stuff taking up space between my ears and energizing my hands.

7. I go places to teach occasionally, but my aversion to travel makes this an unlikely major component of my future plans.  Plus, I generally expect hosts/classes to compensate me similarly to conservation clients, and that is a deal breaker a lot of the time.  Think of it as the intersection between Opportunity Costs and Comparative Advantage.

8. I am comfortable speaking to audiences, whether the audience is people or cameras.  I hope my previous videos confirm that self-assessment.

9. A talented (and eager) young videographer has returned home to the hills after honing his craft at college and in commercial work.  Given that about 39,614 guys are out there making woodworking videos, some with negative production value or informational organization, I’m thinking there may be some fertile territory for our collaboration given his expertise and my idiosyncratic interests.

10. The cavernous fourth floor of The Barn ( 18′ x 38′ with 17′ cathedral ceiling) served mostly as an attic for the past few years.

With those things simmering in the pot, I have decided to turn the fourth floor into a video studio.  Mostly that involved cleaning out the stuff being stored there, doing a bit of painting, and finishing the wiring.  If nothing comes of this, at least I got the attic cleaned, painted, and wired.

Stay tuned.

Tool Troubles? Get Thee to the Grinder

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 3:53pm

I’m always surprised by how many woodworkers – even experienced ones – try to avoid the grinder. They will purchase expensive diamond plates or (worse perhaps) a ream of belt sander paper and an expensive granite plates all to avoid stepping up to an electric or hand-cranked grinder. This is not just a fear among hand-tool users who avoid electricity. I’ve met guys who will use an unguarded shaper with […]

The post Tool Troubles? Get Thee to the Grinder appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

Happy Friday, from Giant Cypress.

Giant Cypress - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 3:06pm


Happy Friday, from Giant Cypress.

Making an infill plane from scratch 8, front knob and wands

Mulesaw - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 2:55pm
There's not much to be said about the continuation of the build today except that it involved a little bit of filing, and a lot of sanding.
The sanding was done with grit 60 emery cloth, so the surface is not perfect yet, but like the base of the plane, there is no need to make a show surface and risk destroying it while riveting the plane together.
The front knob looks a bit big, but I think it is because the rest of the plane is not yet filled. I made it a bit longer than the base of the plane, so I'll have to trim that when it is riveted in place.

Now that I have gained a bit of experience with the Bubinga, I am going to try to make the aft infill and later the rear tote.

There was a discussion going on in the comment section of one of the earlier posts in this series regarding which type of wand that is best for a woodworker.

I am not saying that the wands from Olivanders' made out of ebony or holly with Phoenix feathers or griffins teeth etc. aren't good, but for woodworking my old time favourite is without any doubt pallet wood with a bit of hair from a Newfoundland dog.

If there should be any sorcerers amongst the readers of this blog, please feel free to comment on your personal favourite wand composition.

Front knob in place.

View from the other side.

Dipped in water to give a bit of shine.
Categories: Hand Tools

Shop Update 9/29/17: Announcement of Upcoming Events

The Renaissance Woodworker - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 10:39am

Some Live Events Coming in October

perch stoolLast January I built a bookcase live on my YouTube channel using Chris Schwarz’s book the Anarchist Design Book as my model. This October 14th I will be doing the same thing but following Chris’ lead again and building a staked piece of furniture. Or really I like to think of it as a Windsor Stool or often referred to as a Perch. That will start at noon on 10/14 and I’ll be as usual taking questions as I build.

Next Thursday, 10/5/17, at 6:30 PM EDT is RWW Live. Its another open Q&A opportunity to bring your questions about hand tools and hand tool techniques. I’m open to answer and demonstrate anything so I hope to see you there. I will also be starting up an Auction to benefit hurricane relief in partnership with Ernie Stephenson of Grandpaslittlefarm.com. Ernie will be putting up a fully restored Jack plane and 3 blade kit and a 3 blade kit for those who already have a Jack plane. I will be throwing in a semester of choice to the winning bidders as well.

New Lesson From The Hand Tool School Vault

If you have ever wondered or struggled with creating parallel edges or duplicate sized parts by hand then this 20 minute lesson may be just the trick to get you making your parts identical with a hand plane.
Categories: Hand Tools

‘Carving the Acanthus Leaf’ Now in Store

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 5:19am

CTA_mockup_1000

You can now place a pre-publication order for Mary May’s “Carving the Acanthus Leaf” in the Lost Art Press online store. The book is $49, which includes free shipping in the United States and Canada.

Customers who place a pre-publication order will receive a free and immediate pdf download of the book. The book is expected to ship in late November. You can download a sample chapter of the book here.

For customers outside the United States, we will offer this book to all our international retailers (a list of retailers is here). It is the decision of the retailer as to whether they carry this book or not.

“Carving the Acanthus Leaf” is May’s first book and is the result of three years of intense work. It is a deep exploration into this iconic leaf, which has been a cornerstone of Western ornamentation for thousands of years. May, a professional carver and instructor, starts her book at the beginning. She covers carving tools and sharpening with the efficiency of someone who has taught for years. Then she plunges the reader directly into the work.

It begins with a simple leaf that requires just a few tools. The book then progresses through 13 variations of leaves up to the highly ornate Renaissance and Rococo forms. Each lesson builds on the earlier ones as the complexity slowly increases.

One remarkable aspect of the book is how May has structured each chapter. Each chapter begins with a short discussion of how this particular leaf appears in architecture or the decorative arts, with photos May has taken from her travels around the world. Then you learn how to draw the leaf from scratch. Though you are provided with a full-size or scaled drawing of each leaf, May insists that drawing the leaf makes it easier to carve it. Each step of the drawing process is illustrated in detail.

As May explains how to carve the leaf, she augments each step with multiple photos and illustrations that show where and how each tool should move through the work. The result is that each leaf can have as many as 100 photos and illustrations of each step of the carving process.

In addition to the intense instruction, May also provides a short essay between every chapter that illustrates her journey from a young pumpkin carver to the world-renowned carver she is today. The overall effect is like apprenticing with a master carver, with both the demanding instruction and the personal experiences that make woodworking such a rich craft.

“Carving the Acanthus Leaf” is manufactured to survive many hours of use in the shop. The heavy paper is both glued and sewn so the book will lie flat on your benchtop without the pages coming loose. The pages are protected by cloth-covered hardboards and a tear-resistant dust jacket to protect its contents. This is a permanent book – produced and printed entirely in the United States.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com


Filed under: Carve the Acanthus with Mary May, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

got one done

Accidental Woodworker - Fri, 09/29/2017 - 1:23am
It feels like summer has made a U-turn. It didn't feel hot and it didn't feel humid neither.  But once I started working in the shop, the sweat just pored out of me. It was like someone had opened a faucet. The effects of global warming maybe? The accident I had to endure last night, my wife got caught in one on route 10 at the same exit tonight. She didn't see the vehicles involved but she had to to wait a while to get through it. That sucked because she was bringing dinner home and she was late. Not that I am a raving anal nut job if dinner is late.

it looks pretty good
I nixed this detail this morning during my second cup of mojo at work. I like the look but I don't think it is going to work for the donkeys.

stock stop
I thought I would use it as a stock stop for pushing against as I sawed. Then I thought about it some more and maybe having this on both uprights would/could be a potential problem. Being clever I thought I would make a rounded 'U' shaped piece of wood that I could slip over the top bearer and make it flat and straight across the top. Then I got a headache because I couldn't figure out how and where to stow the 'U' shaped thing when it wasn't be used. Then I decided to make it flat just like my 4x4 donkeys.


I had to take a look at this way
It's a half inch down from the top here. I got one more idea for a spacer here that might work. A 1/2" thick piece of stock held in place with a couple of dowels. Then I could take it off, use the stop, and put the spacer back on. No storage problems.

this is leading in the polls
This may be done or the idea above may be done. It'll be a seat of the pants decision when it comes time to chop the mortises for bearers. I like having the bearer fully housed in a mortise. Making the top flush I would have to make a haunch or a stopped dado.

I'm really liking this for fixing bevels

5 strokes
This is an A2 LN chisel and these few strokes removed the 3 bevels I had and made it one again. It's almost done and it took a few more strokes before I felt a burr on the back.

awesome
I don't plug many things or at least I don't think that I do. These are one of greatest things ever invented. I would put them right after popcorn, ice cubes, and sliced white bread. I have used a square to bring lines around a corner but this wins hands down. I used them together tonight to bring my mortise lines around from the top to the bottom.

this one brings the top line to the side
I placed the other one on this and that brings the top line onto the bottom. No fuss, no muss, and although I'm pretty good with a square at transferring the lines, I occasionally miss it. I do much better making tic marks with a marking knife than using a pencil.


ready to chop my first through mortise
Hopefully I am not being cocky here, but I am going to chop the mortise without using the Paul Sellers jig.  Keeping the chisel straight and plumb is something I feel comfortable doing. Fingers crossed on that not biting me on the arse.

1/2 way - time to flip and repeat
this is the reason I made the jig
I want to use the jig to smooth the walls of the mortise and make that flat, straight, and clean. I had to cut it down because it was too long. I sawed it off at the top of the back piece.

it's a 1/2"
It's a snug trip from one end of the mortise to the other but it's a 1/2" wide trip nonetheless.


this end of the mortise is ok
I used a 6" ruler and laid it on the end of the mortise to see if it rocked. It didn't so I don't have a hump on this one.

got a hump on the opposite end
I could see the hump looking down the end of the mortise. I have the ruler pushed down on the left side and I have a big gap on the right side. It took a few swipes coming from both the top and bottom to flatten it out.

all four walls are square
They aren't all perfectly square but I think they are awfully good for a glued and pinned M/T.

I wish this was an inch longer
The blade is short of the 3" depth of the mortise. It didn't matter here as I read square from the top and bottom.

cleanest mortise I've ever made in Douglas Fir

the other cheek wall looks just as good


sometimes you have to just walk away
I am slowly getting over my urges to trim just a wee bit more here or there.  It is only 1630 and I had time to chop another mortise but my wife had told me she was going to be home before 1645 (that didn't happen). Maybe tomorrow night I'll get two of them chopped.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Where is the oldest seaside resort in the US?
answer - Cape May, New Jersey

Three

The Furniture Record - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 9:16pm

It always interests me that often on those rare occasions I go out looking at furniture I will find very similar items. Similar but not the same.

First I found this:

Continental Victorian Burled Sideboard

Description: Circa 1860, choice burl wood veneers, ebonized highlights, oak secondary, three part form, backsplash featuring a central cartouche with relief carved nuts and fruit, mirrored back, base with two upper side by side drawers above two paneled cabinet doors, flanked by rounded cabinet doors, on suppressed bun feet.

Size: 72 x 65 x 23 in.

Condition: Likely later mirror; top with several shrinkage cracks including one long crack; wear and paint loss to ebonized edge highlights, shrinkage crack to left cabinet door panel; other imperfections from age and use.

DSC_7938

This lot has sold for $320.

DSC_7939

Dovetailed drawers mean quality construction.

The French are very fond of the knife hinge.

DSC_7941

The use of knife hinges require some additional clearance in for the back of the door.

s-l1600

The knife hinge.

And this one has the cutest little bun feet:

DSC_7950

Maybe not so little.

A consignment shop in Raleigh has this similar piece:

IMG_2342

1860 Louis Philippe Mahogany Buffet, France, $3650.

Again, dovetailed drawers:

IMG_1893

A different take on tails but dovetails, nonetheless.

This one has hinged drawers:

IMG_1891

Another use of the knife hinge.

This buffet also has the lock with two bolts used on many pieces of French furniture:

IMG_2339

The centrally located lock has two bolts. One goes low into the right drawer, the other bolt goes high into the mortise on the left drawer.

If any of you know the name of this lock or where I can buy one, please share.

This buffet also has some really great pulls:

IMG_1895

Ebonized pull with mahogany rosette. Very attractive.

Last and by far the least, this poor sad thing found at a mall furniture store:

IMG_3641

Kensington Buffet, Blue Stone Buffet Top. List $2,999. On sale for $1,999.

IMG_3642

Hinged drawers also using the knife hinge. No dovetails.

IMG_3644

Buffet doors use typical butt hinges.

Now vote:

DSC_7938

One.

IMG_2342

Two.

or

IMG_3641

Three.

 


How to Cut Wide Tenons

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 6:29pm
Wide-Tenons-1

FIG. 1. WIDE TENONS WHICH ARE AWKWARD TO SAW It would be difficult to keep the saw to the line over so wide a rail. The planing method outlined here is generally followed in the trade.


This is an excerpt from “The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years: Volume III” published by Lost Art Press. 

A reader has been making a piece of work which has involved the use of a tenoned rail some 12 ins. wide, and tells us that he has had difficulty in sawing the tenons. Whilst it is possible to saw the tenons, we should not advise it. It would take too long, and it would be difficult to keep the saw true across so wide a tenon. We give here the simplest method.

We show a wide rail in Fig. 1, the cutting of the double tenons of which is a typical example of the process to be followed. A similar case of even wider tenons is that of, say, a table top with clamped ends, the last named being mortised for tenons cut at the ends of the top.

Mark out the joint in the usual way, squaring in the shoulders and marking the tenons with the mortise gauge. The chisel is used for marking the shoulders, and a shallow sloping groove is cut on the waste side as at X, Fig. 2. This forms a convenient channel in which the saw can run when cutting the shoulders, the next operation. The tenon saw can be used for this. Saw down to a fraction short of the gauge line, and be careful to keep the saw square.

Wide-Tenons-2

FIG. 2. CHOPPING WASTE AFTER SAWING SHOULDERS. This can be done only when the grain is straight.

Assuming that the grain is reasonably straight, chop away the cheeks with a chisel as at B, Fig. 2. Do not attempt to remove all the waste in a single cut, but start the chisel about halfway down, and finally take it to within about 1/8 in. of the line. Of course, the grain must be watched. If it tends to run downwards the chisel cannot be used so close to the line. If it runs upwards, it can be taken almost on to it. A fairly wide chisel is desirable for this work.

Wide-Tenons-3

FIG. 3. PRELIMINARY USE OF THE REBATE PLANE. The shoulder acts as a fence for the plane.

Now take the rebate plane and work across the grain, the side of the plane pressed against the shoulder as in Fig. 3. If you have the metal type of rebate plane you can set the depth gauge so that the plane ceases to cut when the tenon is reduced nearly to the gauge line. Be sure that the cutter does not project on the shoulder side as this will damage the latter. At the near side the grain is sure to splinter a bit, but this does not matter. It cannot splinter on the shoulder side as it has already been cut with the saw.

Wide-Tenons-4

FIG. 4. FINAL REDUCTION WITH JACK PLANE. Work the plane inwards from each end.

To finish off use the jack or any other bench plane as in Fig. 4. Carried out in this way the reduction of the wood is quite rapid, certainly quicker than when the saw is used throughout, and it enables the tenon to be trimmed to within fine limits. The remainder of the work, that of cutting the separate tenons and the haunches, is as in normal tenoning.

Meghan Bates


Filed under: Charles H. Hayward at The Woodworker
Categories: Hand Tools

Folding Campaign Bookshelves in 1 Minute

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Thu, 09/28/2017 - 5:55pm

For the December 2017 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine I built a pair of folding campaign bookshelves based on a 19th-century pattern. Long-time readers of this blog know that I love mechanical furniture that folds up into tiny spaces and is durable. So 19th-century British campaign furniture is right up my alley. These examples have a Gothic look to them, but you could alter the profiles of the folding end […]

The post Folding Campaign Bookshelves in 1 Minute appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

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