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Accidental Woodworker

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The daily dribble from my workshopRalph J Boumenothttps://plus.google.com/108625500333697903727noreply@blogger.comBlogger2789125
Updated: 1 hour 45 min ago

Miles's toolbox pt II........

12 hours 8 min ago
Today's part is all about measuring and layout tools. I lumped these together because they go hand in hand. You use the two of  them together just as much as you would use them separately. This part of the herd is pretty much done but if something catches my eye I'll snag it for Miles.

square till
The toolbox, the saw, and square tills, all were painted with an exterior paint. After that I applied 4 coats of shellac. The shellac allows me to brush the boxes clean when they get covered with shop dust. If they were just painted, I would have to wash them to clean them.

good selection of squares
The big square on the left is 15" on the inside and 17" on the outside. The right one is 12" on the inside and 14" on the outside. The only quibble I have with them is they were made to be square on the inside only from the manufacturer.  The inside part of the wooden leg has a brass strip but not on the outside. However, I played with these until I got the outside to be square also. Just my opinion, but a square that only reads it on the inside is limited.

What I want to add to the square till
I've been looking for a 4" Starrett but I have only come across one in my hunting. I saw it on one of my tool sites but I lost that to someone else. Lee Valley has free shipping until Wednesday so I might buy their 4" combo square. A brand new Starrett is $74.

most of the layout/measuring stuff is in the top two tills

measuring stuff
I got him Paul Seller's marking knife of which I am a recent convert to. Other then the knife, everything else measures in imperial. The hook rule at the bottom left is imperial and metric. The black box at the top is a fractional reading caliper. I got one for him because I found mine to be a handy tool to have. It will also read decimal but I don't use that.

I got hooked on the Lee Valley sliding square and it gets a lot of use in my shop. I traded a 6" Delta jointer for it. I think I got the better part of that deal. The only thing I gave him that I don't use much myself anymore is the 24" centering rule.

6" rule
This size is handy and I use mine mostly in laying out dovetails.

3 marking gauges
I am hunting for a couple of more but Miles will be able to get by with these even if I don't add anymore to his herd. From the top to the bottom - Stanley 65 oval head, single pin marking gauge. The other two are the same style gauge - the middle one is a Stanley #72 and the bottom one is a Stanley #71.

both are single pin with dual beams
I gave him these because they can serve a dual purpose. Between the two of them they can hold 4 different settings. Or they can be used as a mortise gauge. One thing I've found with the Stanley marking gauges are the scales are dead nuts on.

the only difference
The Stanley #72 has a brass wear plate under the marking pins where the #71 doesn't.

he'll be getting one of these for sure
This marking gauge can be used to gauge a line on curved work. These have suddenly become scarcer than frog hair blankets. I used to see these offered up all the time when I didn't want one and now I can't remember the last time I saw one for sale.

3" mortise gauge
This is a Stanley #73 and I love the size of this mortise gauge. This is another gauge that I want to add to Miles's herd. This one is even scarcer then the Stanley round work gauge ( mine is marked Stanley but it has no model number).

has long length, sharp pins
If I can't find another one of these I will probably buy or give him one my mortise gauges. He will probably inherit this one.

the final part of the layout and measuring herd
Pencils and magic markers are usually overlooked but they are essential parts of a tool kit. I am not that anal to include them now but I can supply them when they are actually needed.

first drawer bottom installed
I glued it in the front groove with hide glue and screwed it to the back with 3 screws, no glue. I did this with a rabbet bit in my electric router. Plywood is too hard on plane irons. I still had to plane it to fit the groove and the slips.

#5 primed
I removed 99.99% of the japanning from the frog so I opted to prime it. I got the sole of the plane sanded to 80 grit but I still have to do the sides.

The previous owner of this saw fit to put a big back bevel on this iron. It looks like a knife edge and not a plane iron edge. It is almost a 1/16th of inch from the edge so I'll lose a lot grinding it off. I'm not sure that I'll be able to sharpen this as I have zero experience with a back bevels - ala 'ruler trick'. It is hard trying to flatten the back because of it.

another problem
The business end of the iron is flat but the back end is drunk. I'm pushing down there and the bevel is over a 1/8" off the plywood.

it's now a C bend
It was bent in a S shape at this end. I was able to kind of beat the S into a C but not flatten it. I'm not sure if the lever cap and chipbreaker will be able to flatten this out. I didn't road test it before I started rehabbing it so I don't know how or if it made shavings.

prepping the stock for the second drawer
I need to find a home for this
I have only used brown rouge on both wheels and they blacker than the edge of space. Why?

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a qubit in Quantum Computing is a two state unit of quantum information?

Miles's toolbox......

Fri, 02/16/2018 - 11:44pm
This is an update on my grandson's toolbox. I think I am pretty close to being done with it. I know of a couple more toys I want to add to the herd before I call it done. This will be the first of 4 or maybe 5 posts I'll do on this. This one is on the toolbox and the saw till. The others will follow suit. While this is going on I'll be working on the tool cabinet and finishing the rehabbing of the #5.

Feel free to chime in on anything you think I need to add or maybe take away. I am not shooting for getting every toy available but a decent starting set for him to learn and grow with. He can add/subtract as he wants if it keeps up with it.

Miles's toolbox and tills
The big toolbox wasn't big enough to put all the tools in it. The long rectangular box is the saw till and the box on top is the till for his squares. I definitely did not want the squares to be banging around loose in the toolbox.

the big toolbox
I had made this a few years ago and I added one big till and two smaller ones. I thought of making a bigger toolbox but I am staying with this. That will keep my purchases to a minimum and hopefully just what is needed.

it's on a rolling dolly
My thanx to the Valley Woodworker (Bob) for making this suggestion. It is a huge back saver and something I will do again.

the saw till
I'll be putting the coping saw in the lid
the backsaws
From the top on down - rip tenon saw, crosscut carcass saw, and a dovetail saw. These should do for any joinery he'll do. He may have to wait a while to grow into them though.

rip and crosscut panel saws
All of these saws have been cleaned, the totes refinished, and all have been sharpened. The coping saw did not need any of this but I do have to fix the handle on it. It is loose and has an annoying habit of separating itself from the saw frame while using it. I'll epoxy it as a first fix.

I think I'm set on saws for Miles. He should be able to build whatever he wants with this set. A couple of things I want to add to the saw till is a saw set and some files so he can sharpen these. He can make his own saw vise as a shop project.

tote screw and a carbide bit to drill holes
One of the totes was loose and I was going to replace one of the saw nuts but both totes are now tight. And I don't remember which one was loose. There is absolutely nothing loose on either of them. I will keep these in this saw till for just in case.

the coping saw holder from my saw till
I am going to reuse this to hold the coping saw in Miles's saw till box.

corners were too tight
I had to rasp the corners back some to give a wee bit more to slip the coping on and off of this.

screws punched through
The lid panel is only 6mm plywood which is less than a 1/4" thick. I didn't want to glue the holder on to the inside of the lid but I may not have a choice. I'll leave it screwed on for now but if I have to I'll glue in on with hide glue.

room for another saw
The coping saw stayed in the holder through several open and close cycles of the lid which surprised me. I was going to put a toggle stick on the holder but I don't think I need to now.

Tomorrow I'll post about the measuring do-dads I stuffed in the toolbox.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Great White Shark is the largest predatory fish in the world?

jack rehab.......

Fri, 02/16/2018 - 12:40am
I did quick look up for the type of jack I have. It has a corrugated sole but that really doesn't have anything to do with the type. It has two patent dates in front of the tote but not the arched doo hickey thing between the two circular screw holes for the frog. The type ten ushered in the adjustable frog and the screw which is absent from my plane. I think it is a type 9 or maybe a type ten that didn't get the frog adjustment treatment. I read Patrick's plane study and it kind of fits inbetween the 9 and 10. It has some of the DNA from both. No matter, I'm rehabbing a corrugated sole #5.

starting to rust on the back

two patent dates and a rusting frog area
I will wire brush this tomorrow and clean it with acetone. Once I'm satisfied the rust is gone I'll apply the stripper.

small parts out of the EvapoRust
rinsed and blown dry
I have done my derusting with a few different agents. The last one I tried was citric acid and I've made the circle back to EvapoRust. This stuff works the best. It is safe to touch and dump down the household drain and it works at derusting.  I also like the finish on the parts after they come out of the bath. It is also reusable a boatload of times. What's not to like about it?

buffer work
 I was able to raise a decent shine on the barrel nuts. I was going to buy a replacement set but I think I'll use these. The slots aren't chewed up and I do like shiny things.

came pretty clean with Krud Kutter and a blue scrubbie
inside doesn't look the same
I haven't been able to clean the inside of any knob I've done with any cleaner. Even Bar Keeps needs help with a wire brush to get clean and shiny.

sandpaper always works
Even using sandpaper is still tough, especially getting my fat fingers in there to work it.

this knob has had the snot beat out of it
I had a hard time turning this off of the stud around the half way point. Maybe the previous owner didn't think to clean the threads and instead used a pipe wrench to turn it.

shined on the buffer
It didn't look like this when I got done buffing it. It was black and I had to wipe the knob with a rag to get the shine. The buffing wheel is black too but I had cleaned the knob before I buffed it. I'll have to read up on this and see if there is something I'm doing wrong.

Lee Valley sent another one
fits, but.......
I don't want to sound ungrateful but I think that this should sit down a wee bit more. It works and holds the bit securely so maybe I'm quibbling about nothing.

road tested my chamfer brace bit
I could only get the chamfer to work to about the 1/3 point. I leaned on the brace and pressed down on it but I could not get the chamfer any larger than this.

filed it some

easier to make the chamfers
 Still couldn't go past the half way point but they appear to be a bit cleaner looking.

did a better job of filing it
far left hole is toast
The bit didn't want to make the left one any larger than what it is. The other two holes weren't a problem. What I can't understand is why it won't go any deeper. The cutting edge is sharp and shiny from the top to the bottom so it should a make a chamfer right up to the top.

tried it in pine
Easier to do than the DF but still only to about half way. It looks like this will be good for #6 screws and maybe #8's.

sticky 80 grit
It is wide enough to do the jack and I don't have any clamps to get in the way.

it's pretty close to flat
I like using the PSA sandpaper over the 6x48 sanding belts. The biggie is no clamps in the way leaving the whole runway open. I can go from one end to the other and overshoot .

Krud Kutter cut the crud
that is some nasty looking grunge
This is ten strokes on 80 grit. This side was pitted, not deeply, but still pitted. This quick dance step removed most of them. I don't think I'll have any problems getting the cheeks shiny.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a kazoo is classified as a membranophone?

not myself........

Thu, 02/15/2018 - 12:34am
I did not want to get out of my bed this morning. Usually as soon as I wake up, I'm out of the rack. I'm rearing and ready to go and I don't need anything else to get my motor warmed up. I felt tired and blah feeling all day at work. I'm glad that I didn't have a lot of work to do, I don't remember feeling this out of it from first colonoscopy.

might as well
I believe I have stepped over the "....you might as well" line in the sand. I cleaned this with Zep and Krud Kutter to compare them and I went a wee bit further. I scraped two rusty spots and then scraped the body. I would estimate I easily removed 85-90% of the japanning. I hadn't planned on rehabbing any more planes until next month but I don't a choice now. This will flash rust in a couple of days without a primer coat on it.

I won't be stripping it today but maybe tomorrow I'll do it. Now that I am doing it I can't wait to see how this one comes out. This plane has some pitting on the cheek walls and I want to see if I can lap them out. This will be my first time doing something like that.

started the rehabbing last night
I am getting rid of the Zep and using Krud Kutter from now on. But I didn't want to shitcan what Zep I had left so I let the parts soak in it overnight. Before I tossed them in this bath I had sanded and wire brushed as much of the crud and grunge off the parts I could.

one last scrubbing
These will be going in EvapoRust next and I want to make I got all of the grime and crud off of them.

they are a lot cleaner
The Zep was a light, see through lime green color before I did the overnight bath trick. I took all the parts upstairs and rinsed them all with hot water.

these parts will be ready tomorrow
the frog
I wasn't going to put the frog in the EvapoRust but I had no choice. It is already flash rusting on the seat that won't be painted.

the frog side
Both sides at the bottom were orange with rust. I sanded these two places to bare metal and a few other rust spots too. After that I tossed them into the EvapoRust.

got a reply from Lee Valley
They are sending me another one and LV said that it had been tested to ensure 1/4" hex bits fit in it. They said I could do what ever I wanted with this one.

metric reading
I don't know what the tolerances for this would be but a 6mm hex bit should fit it this but maybe on the loose side?

undersized for a 1/4" (0.250) hex bit
phillips hex bit
I measured 6 bits and they were all around the same give or take a thousandth or two.

needle files
I didn't have a file that matched the width of the flats but a spear point kind of fit. I tried filing with that but the hex bit still wouldn't fit. It was worth a try now that I have a replacement coming.

finishing screwing the drawer
Last night after dinner I came to the shop looking for drawer slides screws and found a bunch of them. I put some in the slide that attaches to the drawer side and tonight I did the cabinet slides.

needed some help
I used my birdcage awl to make pilot holes before driving them home. I couldn't fully seat the screws with the ratcheting driver. I had to finish them with the hand screwdriver. Driving screws in plywood is never easy due to all the cross banding of the veneers.

marking the bottom
5/16" over
Which is the depth of the groove in the front of the drawer. This should be flush with the back of the drawer or just a hair proud.

1/2 a frog hair wide
This is as far as I dare to take this tonight. I am not 100% mentally with it, and I don't want an oops to happen to me here. If I feel better tomorrow, I'll make my 3 rabbets and fit it.

funny looking counter bore
I am going to try and drill a hole with this.

the other counter bore
Bad pic of this but the cutting edges look to be wicked sharp on this one. This has been recently sharpened too from the looks of it.

it worked
This is a scrap piece of Douglas Fir and it drilled the hole. No burning, no chattering, and it didn't stall as I applied even downward pressure. This wasn't what I expecting. I thought it wouldn't cut wet paper.

1" diameter
This counter bore drilled a very clean hole in this DF. It hard to get cleanly drilled holes in this wood but this did it. The circumference is very smooth and clean except for one small spot and the bottom is smooth and even. I don't need or use these very often but they are handy when you do need them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that mendacious means not telling the truth, lying?

drawer fitted.......

Wed, 02/14/2018 - 12:34am
I did some work last night after dinner because I had to stay up due to the toilet trot races.  I also got some work done before I left to go to the hospital. I knew that once I got home from that I would be restricted in what I could do. Anesthesia does funny things to you for hours after it is stopped. I tried a few things that I thought didn't require any undue dexterity or overtaxing my limited mental faculties.

last night
After supper I rasped this cutout to the line and sanded it smooth. I glued 3 toothpicks into the bottom to help hold it together. The bottom is 5/16" thick and I don't have any screws small enough for this. The toothpicks should be more adequate for holding it together. I couldn't do the other side because I just epoxied it together before supper.

the following morning at oh dark thirty five
This is what the inside of the repair on this end looked like after I removed the tape.

curve rasped and the end cap sanded smooth
front of the curve
I can see where the break is at the top and bottom of the curve. A quick glance brings nothing and I'll leave this as is and call it a pitch pocket.

inside sanded smooth
The dark streak is from me sanding this with a finger sander that I had used previously to sand lever caps. This is why I want a set for woodworking and a set for metal. I had to sand this again with some clean 150 grit paper.

toothpick nails
I can get all 3 'nails' out of one toothpick. I chiseled off the pointed end and then divided what was left roughly in three. The toothpick is very close to a 1/16" diameter.

angled the two end 'nails' and the middle one went in at 90°
drilling pilot holes for a #6 screw
smallest driver
This one works well with #6 on down screws. I'm still having luck with keeping the blade in the slot as I drive them.

I am not going to put a clear finish on this nor am I going to paint it. The other tool cabinets and drawers don't have a finish so I'll keep this the same as them.

I can use the driver to open and close the drawer
It doesn't stick out that far and the brief time I worked at the bench, it wasn't a problem.

I will have to rehab this now (back from the hospital)
this part was easy
The gears look good with no chips, breaks, cracks, or missing teeth. It is dirty but I can clean it and paint it.

I'll need a spanner wrench
I have a lot of tools but I don't have even one spanner wrench. I have 3 different sized snap ring pliers but they won't work for this.

This pin is for the bottom bevel gear and the shaft that the drill chuck threads on.

had to search for the top pin
I saw this pin on the handle's ferrule but I thought it was a dimple for holding it on. I was looking for a pin around the bevel gear itself. I still don't understand how the shaft for the top bevel gear works. The top of the shaft, at the handle, is pinned but what is keeping the bottom of the shaft, below the bevel gear, in place?

installing the drawer slides
 I don't know if this is right or wrong, but it is the way I do them. I like to put the drawer slides down close to the bottom edge. It makes sense to me that this would be the obvious place to put them.

I have both parts of slide together. The spacer will leave a 1/4" above the top of the drawer.

left side slide going in

I'm glad that I got a hex adapter for the Craftsman driver because the Stanley 131 is too long to fit inside the cabinet. I set the front end of the slide a 1/4" from the front of the cabinet.

it was the anesthesia that made me do this
I put the drawer side slides on backwards. On good point is the front is flush with the sides of the cabinet.

The closed end of the drawer side slide should be at the front of the drawer, not the back like I did it here.

the anesthesia is still playing with my head
I got the drawer slides swapped the correct way but now the drawer is proud.

why it is proud
I put the 1/4" from the end at the back of the drawer when it should have been at the front.

got my 1/4" clearance at the top of the drawer
I will duplicate this clearance between the two drawers.

it is working both ways
It is driving the screws into the pine like a dream. What I found surprising is it is also driving the screws out too and all the way.

The drawers only come with 8 screws. That means only two screws for each part of the drawer slides. I will be adding at least 2 more for each slide part. If I don't have any screws I think Lowes sells them.

I think I got it right this time
Three times is the charm for drawer slides too.

drawer closed and it is flush
The stock for the new drawer has stickered for a few days. I will rough cut the new drawer parts tomorrow and let them sticker for a day before dovetailing them. I stopped working on anything involving woodworking here. I invoked my two mistake rule and stopped any further woodworking.

one of the hardest spots to clean and degrease
the back of the frog is another spot
using Zep on the front and Krud Kutter at the back
the Zep is filthy
I cleaned this first with a nylon brush (at the top right) and then scrubbed it with the wire brush.

Krudd Kutter did better at the back
Both of these worked in cleaning but I think the Krud Kutter was several frog hairs better than the Zep at it. And the Krud Kutter is biodegradable while the Zep isn't.

Krud Kutter gets the brass ring
 I noticed that the rag for the Krud Kutter was noticeably more dirty and darker than the Zep one.  I'm liking the Krud stuff a lot more than the Zep.

got some new toys
All I wanted was the countersink for the brace but the S/H for it was more than the brace. I saw the two counter bores being offered for $10 each so I got them. Brand new they are a lot more then the price I paid. The top one will work in wood but the bottom one I'm not sure. The wings are flat with a slight bevel to them. I think this one was made to counter bore in metal. I'll try it on wood to see if I'm right or not.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a UK Duke or Duchess is addressed as "your grace"?

it is my turn........

Tue, 02/13/2018 - 2:19am
This morning when I left for work it was 55°F (13°C) and when I got to work it was almost 58°F (14.4°C). T shirt weather but wait, there is more. About 90 minutes later I had to go to my truck to get my k-cups and the temp had dropped to 47°F (8.3°C). Still not to bad of a temp for the second week of February, but a wee bit on the screwy side. Tonight it will dip into the low 20's F (-6.6°C). The temps will be on a roller coaster until later on in the week.

can we guess what this is?
Tomorrow morning I will have a colonoscopy. These pills and the Gatorade are the prep work I have to do tonight. At 2000, I have to drink another bottle of this stuff mixed with some powder. I'm glad all this only happens on one day.

holder set up
According the instructions I got from the hospital, I could have anywhere from 20 minutes to hours before I start the toilet trots. I tried to squeeze in what I could before that race started.

it is nose heavy
I think this is ok as is but if not I can add a circular holder at the nose later.

why it is nose heavy
There are two 'stops' on the screwdriver that these supports are on. They keep the screwdriver from shifting left/right.

flushed the back brace
I had to do something with the square look of this. A circular cutout will look better.

piece of cardboard
I used this to make a template so the two ends would be the same.

should have done this before I glued them on
But I didn't so I had to use the coping saw. This didn't go off so well because the saw is big, this is small, I had a hell of time clamping it so I could saw it, and one of the holders was in the way. Did I mention that I don't have a lot of practice with a coping saw? After the fact I realized that I should have turned the blade away from 90.

I had to use very short strokes
This side didn't come out that bad. I was off the line on top half of it and removed it on the bottom half.

It was very awkward sawing this end as it shows. Being in a hurry was a major contributor to this boo -boo also. Since I don't want to make another one, I'll fix this somehow.

flushed the drawer slips
Worked on this while I thought of how to fix the screw up I did with the coping saw.

epoxy and sawdust to the rescue
blue tape
This piece of tape will keep the epoxy and sawdust from oozing on through.

packed it with epoxy/sawdust mixture
I will let this set up and tomorrow I'll evaluate it as to whether or not I'll leave it as is and apply a clear finish. If it looks like crap, I'll paint it. I had to quit here because the race started.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know in liquid beer measures that a firkin equals 9.8 gallons?

drawer glued up.......

Mon, 02/12/2018 - 12:25am
Got the first drawer glued up and maybe tomorrow I'll be fitting the bottom on or in it. That depends upon how my spatial thinking is working at the time. I used hide glue on the drawer and the temps are cooperating. It's been raining all day but it is a bit on the warm side for this time of the year. It hit 51°F (10.5°C) today and the rest of week is looking to have mild temps in the 40's. Spring isn't too far away now. I have been hearing the birds singing every time I went outside today. That is another good sign for an early spring.

found my braces
I was very disappointed that the Lee Valley brace adapter is toast. It fits in all 6 of the braces I have but none of the hex bits will fit in it.

nice piece of chrome
pretty looking but useless
It is too light weight to repurpose as a paperweight. I'll email LV on this on monday and see what the solution is.

metric ball driver
I thought that since this was metric, the shank was metric too. It isn't (it's a 1/4") and it doesn't fit either.

hex driver fits
Not exactly what I was looking for here but in the interim it will do. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that LV can fix this.

hex adapter from LV fits
the phillips driver that came with the screwdriver
I wasn't sure that LV would have an adapter for this since it is a Craftsman. I measured the shaft of the phillips and it was 7mm. LV sells a 7mm adapter and it fits this perfectly.

drawer glued up
I used clamps on this to draw up the tails and pin tight. I had to fuss with the clamps for a bit to get the drawer square. With a square it looked good but the diagonals were off an 1/8".

diagonals re best
Charles Hayward advises not to use a square to check a carcass. Diagonals aren't influenced by bows and dips in the carcass. Both diagonals are dead nuts on.

front internal corner
the other front corner
I am now convinced that my gappy corners were caused by me moving the knife wall when I chopped the waste. I have done 4-5 dovetails now being careful not to move my knife walls and the results are better.

shined it a bit more
used this wheel
Had no problems with this wheel working. I couldn't stall this one no matter how hard I tried. Both wheels have the same buffing compound on them as I don't think I'll be using two different rouges.

this wheel stalls the motor, why?
I don't understand why one wheel buffs away and the other one will stall. It is the same motor and shaft driving both wheels.

found the problem
This nut was loose. Not fall off loose but a few threads shy of being tight. I tightened it and tried to stall the buffer again.

working now
I couldn't stall the motor after I tightened the nut on the shaft. It looks like I don't have a HF piece of crappola. I know nothing about buffing wheels but I saw a wider one at HF when I bought this. Makes sense to me that a wider wheel would probably buff a wide lever cap better than this thin one does?

thought I had only made one mistake
the first mistake
I sawed the back to width and since I had the front there too, I sawed it to the same width. Except the front did not have to be ripped to the same width as the back. I found both mistakes when I was starting to mark the baselines with my knife.

my second mistake is the pencil line is toast
I cut further down then I should have.

I used the drawer slip to mark the pencil line
but the wrong way
If I make a new back I still have the tails being over cut. Everyone of them is over cut by a 1/4". Using them may make the drawer weaker not to mention it will look like crap.

stopped at home depot
I had to go to BJ's warehouse to get my coffee k-cups but it wasn't open yet so I killed 20 minutes wandering around HD. I went looking for the rem oil again but came up dry on that but I saw this. Bob just blogged about using this on his drill rehab so I grabbed a bottle to try. I like that it is biodegradable and won't make me glow in the dark.

2 points for Krud  Kutter to 1 point for Zep
 It's made by Rustoleum who makes the primer and topcoat paint I use.

new drawer stock
This is the board I bought saturday and I'll be using it to make a new drawer.

I'll make this one wider
I'll let this sticker for a day or two,

fitting the first drawer slip
back end fitted around the back
gluing them in with hide glue
1/4" brass set up bar
Used this to keep the front aligned while I put on the clamps.

used one at the back too
slips glued and clamped
holder prototyping
put it here
or underneath the drawer
drilled some pilot holes
road tested my new hex adapter
sweet action - better then using a drill
this is out
In order for this work I will have to hang it down fairly low so I can take it out and put it back.

this is the winning spot
making dadoes
routed to depth
made a notch for the back brace
glued up
I think I may promote this from prototype to user status. I'll make the final decision on that tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Five Kingdoms of Living Things are Animals, Fungi, Monera, Plants, and  Protists?

first drawer started.......

Sun, 02/11/2018 - 2:33am
On the way home from OT I stopped at Lowes to pick up some supplies. I like stopping here on saturday because there is zero traffic and almost no one out and about. Lowes is pretty much empty too. The only quibble I have with is this Lowes is laid out differently then the Lowes I usually go to. One of the guys working there said it laid out the same but I beg to differ with him. Maybe the major departments are the same but all the goodies aren't in the same holes.

Lowes goodies
Double balls steel wool for the Tru-oil, 1x12 for drawer fronts, and a 2'x4'x 1/2" piece of plywood for the drawer bottoms.

already cupping
Hasn't been in the shop for an hour yet and it is already doing stupid wood tricks. This was flat at Lowes because I checked it with a framing square.

backup 1x12
This is a sweet piece of EWP that I would rather not use for drawer parts. If I have to I will. It depends on how much wood I have to remove to get the Lowes board flat.

sometimes you get lucky
I got these boards from the same Lowes I got the new 1x12 from. These have been sawn to rough length and width and they are all still flat, straight, and not cupped. Even the squirrely grain one that I thought for sure would head south on me. I will be making drawers today with this stock.

1/2" oak plywood
The drawers will be roughly 2 foot square which means they are big. I think they are too big for 1/4" plywood bottoms. My first choice was 3/8 ply but every single piece at Lowes was bowed or cupped. Oak is cheaper then birch so I bought that. The 1/2" will make for a strong and stiff drawer along with the 3/4" drawer parts.

5 coats
I have one more to spray on and these will be done.

practice tote
The plan is to use this tote that was broken and I screwed up gluing it back together. nhfortyeight sent me a couple of pics of stock finished with Tru-oil. One was a tote and the other a tiger maple frame. Wow is all I can say and I can't wait to see if I can duplicate what he did. I tried to copy and paste the tote pic but I couldn't figure out how to do it. Which is ok because in my haste to do that I didn't get the ok from him to do that.

ratcheting screwdrivers
I think I got all the sizes and they all work flawlessly. Now that I have had them a while I have realized that they aren't a replacement for a drill, powered by batteries or a cord. Now that I know their limitations, I can work around them because I still love using these things.

The smallest one is delicate. It came with 3 flat blades and I got a hex adapter to increase it's versatility. I haven't any problems with driving screws with the flat blades. Go figure on that. I was sure that I would be doing the hop and bounce dance steps with it for sure. Nope. The only problem I have had with driving slotted screws is getting the blade in the slot.

my driver collection
The three bits on the lower left I can't use in any of ratcheting drivers because they have round shanks. All the rest fit in the hex adapters.

the 3 flat blades
I didn't think I would use these but I have several times. I have a boatload of small slotted brass screws - from #3 up to a #6 . I can get one of these to fit well with that screw selection I have.

one hiccup
I got these mostly to drive screws, be it in or out. They all do that but not well. I use spax screws and they don't require a pilot hole to be drilled first. The two biggest drivers struggled to do that sans the pilot hole. The smallest one said no mas, no mas. It wouldn't drive it even with a pilot hole.

With a pilot hole, the two biggest ones work well driving them in but not so well driving them out. That I can understand was there is no pressure exerted on the screw backing them out with these. The small one worked with a pilot hole with #6 and #5 screws. It struggled without success trying a #8 spax screw.

I like using these because in spite of my arthritis, these don't hurt to use. Sometimes I get twinges in my wrist and fingers when I use my battery drills. They are good addition to my shop.

I keep the two small ones in here
The big Stanley won't fit in this drawer. I may revisit the holder idea I had for putting on the front of my drawer. I like having all 3 of these right by the bench.

it's home for now
 Until I think of something else, I'll keep it with my go to herd of bench planes.

drawer stock prep
After I checked and corrected each board for twist, I planed the two faces smooth just removing the machine marks. I didn't go nutso and plane to thickness. I just want to get the boards reasonably flat, twist free, and smooth..

the one board with the squirrely grain
This board had the most twist. Not cupped at all but it took 4 planing trips and checking before I declared it twist free.

squared up one end
I then marked the length on one board and knifed my line. I used that board to mark all the other boards.  Two boards I could plane to the line on the other two I sawed most of the waste off first. Theses are the fronts and backs. I did a wash, rinse, and repeat for the sides.

just fits between the slides
the two drawers are ready for dovetailing
the 4 1/2 spitting out even shavings R/M/L
they all look a wee bit better
#4 needs a home
The 5 1/2, 4 1/2, 10 1/2, and the woodie are my go to planes. I keep them here at the left corner of the bench ready to grab and use. The #4 is the one I'm taking to my class in june and I don't have any other place for it to call home. I'll keep it here for the time being.

marking the pins
Had a choice of doing both drawers at the same time or one at a time. Since I don't a clock to punch on this I went with one at a time.

drawer slips
I am using 3/4" stock for the sides so I could plow grooves in them without any problems but I'm going to use slips. That is why the bottom doesn't have a half pin - so the bottom can be slid in.

this part still revs my motor - will it fit?
yes and no
No it didn't fit off the saw and yes it did after a wee bit of fitting and trimming and cursing and repeating the trimming and fitting. It has been a while since I have dovetailed in 3/4" stock. It seems I've done a boatload of them in 1/2" stock lately. The drawer is a 16th off on the diagonals here.

a frog hair from being tight between the slides
setting the depth
Using the Record 044 to make sure it is still functioning as it should. I set the depth and then checked all the screws were tight and the fence was parallel to the skate. Plowed the groove in the front with no hiccups.

stock for the drawer slips
I used the straightest grained off cut to make the drawer slips. I squared both edges because I will get two slips out of each board.

it's working
I checked the depth shoe after each groove along with all the other thumbscrews. The plow is working and it will be a good plane for Miles to have. I don't think or anticipate any more speed bumps with this plow.

 4 slips
test piece
I made a test piece out of some scrap to ensure that I wouldn't be proud of the bottom. Close, but not proud. If I had been I would plane a bevel and leave a space between the bottom of the top drawer and the top of the second drawer.

a saturday UPS delivery
This was totally unexpected. This is my Lee Valley free shipping order and I have never gotten a saturday UPS delivery from them before. Top left going to the right, a 3/4" cup and washer magnet set. Big stick of brown rouge and another set of 3/4" cup and washer magnets. Bottom left is a 1/4" adapter for a brace, hex adapter for my Craftsmen ratcheting screwdriver, and my Blue Tooth transmitter doggle. The BT was mentioned only because it is in the pic.

I tried the adapter in my brace and got a big disappointment. None of my 1/4" hex stuff will fit in the brace adapter. I'll have to email Lee Valley about that one.

3/4 inch washer and cup magnets
I got these to maybe use on the drawers for the tool cabinet. They are a lot stronger than the 1/2" and 3/8" magnets I used to hold the squares in my square till box. I think that they may be too big to use on the tool cabinet drawers. I'll have to wait and see how that shakes out a bit further on down the line.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that 6 wickets and one wooden stake are used in tournament croquet?

out for dinner.....

Sat, 02/10/2018 - 12:18am
I didn't have fish n' chips this time. My wife asked me if I was having heart attack when I ordered a steak for dinner. Sometimes you have to throw a curve to keep everyone guessing. I got a baked potato with broccoli and I washed it down with a Sam Adams lager. I don't drink often but I do like a beer now and then, usually with fish n' chips or in this case, a steak.

4 1/2 tote and knob
I nixed the Tru- oil for these two. I read the instructions and it says to wait 24 hours between applications and that would mean 4-5 days before they would be done. Shellac I can spray on a bazillion in a couple of hours. That is why I went with it. I already have two coats sprayed on and I'll be using the 4 1/2 this weekend.

Another point with the Tru-oil is it says to wipe it down between coats with 00 (double zero) steel wool. All I have in the shop is 4-0. That means a trip to Wally World but I don't remember seeing any steel wool my last time in there. Wally World just got done with their *^@((%@!$%&*# lets move and rearrange everything. People have gotten used to where things are so it's time to change stock locations. So I'm not even sure that Wally World still sells it. They don't sell shellac anymore, be it quarts or rattle cans. And they cut way back on the sandpaper they used to sell.

don't like this wild grain
This is from the board that is giving up the two fronts. The other part of this board has straight grain but around the 1/2 way point it went on a bender. It is still flat and straight after almost a week in the shop. And it didn't move when I cut it to width so maybe I'm worrying about it for nothing. If it is still flat tomorrow I'll use it when I make the drawers. If not, I have a 1x12 cutoff that I can get a drawer front from.

the sides
I used the two boards with the straightest grain for the sides. It is important that these boards stay flat and straight.

the drawer slides
The drawer slides drove the side stock selection. I only have a 32nd of leeway with the width. If the stock cups, I'm screwed. If it does that it could stop the slides from opening/closing freely. They could bind and say I ain't opening at all. It isn't much of a problem if I was using plywood but I'm not.

my last time using drawer slides
This is a filing cabinet I made for my wife a few years ago.

the last time I used the Leigh Jig to make dovetails too
These slides have the same 32nd tolerance that the ones I'm using now have. Rather them make myself nutso, I made the drawer width an 1/8 over. If I had made the width too narrow I would have been screwed and had to make a new drawer. Being oversized, I planed the sides until it fit within the 32nd tolerance.

put a pencil drawer in the top one
My wife didn't want both drawers to hold files so I had some freedom here.

bottom drawer
She doesn't use it to keep files anymore. It has become her pocketbook drawer now. Did you notice that I swapped the tails and pins over what I did on the top drawer? I have no finish on any of the three drawers and they are still flat and cup free years later. Putting finish on drawers is another myth I don't buy into.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the maximum circumference of a standard bowling can not exceed 27.002 inches?

How I rehab planes......

Fri, 02/09/2018 - 12:47am
I got a comment from Andrew about my painting technique so I decided to expand on it. I will give a brief overview of how I rehab a plane. I am not a purist, or a collector. Any planes that I rehab are done with respect to get that plane to user status first and foremost. Lately my anal side took over and I've been going nutso getting the planes to look as good and shiny as possible. If you are interested in keeping patina then don't read any further.  I will take shiny and good looking over patina everyday of the week 24/365.

still straight and cup free
I will let this sticker for one more day.

primer I use
The steps I do now are the level of rehabbing I have grow to. I have learned and improved a bit more with each plane I've done but I think I have finally reached the top of things that can be done. I use spray primer only because I haven't found a can of it yet. I would rather brush this on vice spraying. I use this primer because I use Rustoleum enamel paint as my topcoat.

the plane interior
This is the only area I spray primer on. I tape off the sides and bottom and spray away. Another reason I chose this spray primer is that I can spray at any angle. That helps when trying to spray into the corners of the vertical surfaces.

Before I spray the primer I scrape and clean the body with degreaser. I then apply the stripper. After I strip the interior I scrape and sand it as best I can. Sandblasting it would be the best choice here.  Before I spray on the primer, I clean the body one last time with acetone.

Rustoleum oil based black enamel
I put on two coats of black enamel and I haven't had to use more than two on any plane I've done so far. I have used this brush on every rehab that I have painted and it is still working ok. I use oil based enamel because one it is shiny and will stay this way. And two, this is a durable paint that once it has set shouldn't chip readily. It should provide protection and shine for this plane for a whole lot of years.

My reasoning for going nutso on the sole is that doing it this way will make it slick and easier to push. There should be less friction between the stock and the sole. I sand starting with 80 grit but that depends on the condition of the sole and I may jump up to a higher grit to start with. After 80 I use 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, and finish with 600. I could go further but this is shiny enough for me here. The last step for the sole and the cheeks is to apply Autosol. The Autosol imparts a little more shine but it protects the plane for several months.

you decide
Patina from age or shine from a little time and muscle?

made big improvements with the frogs
When I first started rehabbing I avoided the frog because I was intimidated by it. I was fearful of breaking something so I basically left them alone. I don't prime them before painting them but I do remove as much japanning as I can. I follow that up with a good cleaning with acetone and then two topcoats.

One thing I do now is remove the yoke. It is a simple matter of punching out the pin that holds it. It's just as easy to replace. I haven't gotten up the courage to try and remove the lateral adjust lever. I read a couple of blogs where they remove the lateral adjust and pin it again and peen it over. I may buy a frog to practice on because that would make painting the frog even easier to do.

frog face
 I was just sanding this until it was flat. If it got smooth that was bonus but getting it flat was the number one reason for sanding it. Now I'm getting it flat and then shining it up to 600 grit and I like that look.. I start with 150, then 220, 320, 400, and stop at 600. I use Autosol on the face only as my final step.

lever caps
The left cap is from a #4 I rehabbed several years ago. I concentrated my efforts then mostly to remove rust and I didn't try shining this up. I only discovered that I could shine these up by accident. One cap had a scratch on the face and I tried to sand it out and noticed that it was getting shiny. I am sanding the lever caps with the same grits as the frog faces.

frog from a rehabbed #4
Usually the sides of the sides are rough and bumpy. I'm sure that this is the way they came from being cast and this surface didn't get any love. Filing the sides of the frog I found is very easy to do. I now file the frog sides smooth removing the bumps and rough casting marks.

4 1/2 frog
This was rougher than the #4 frog up above before I filed and painted it.

spray painted on the left  and brushed on the right
I no longer spray the topcoat because it is a PITA. I like brushing. I am a good painter and I enjoy painting the top coat. More importantly I think the results are better than what I got spraying it. The sprayed coat is an Engine paint if I remember. That is what was recommended but it is dull and listless looking. When I go back and rehab this #3 again, painting it and the frog with the enamel paint will perk it up a lot.

4 1/2 on up have toe screws on the totes
I replace the steel toe screws with a brass ones. I get them from Bill Rittner here. He also makes replacement totes and knobs. I have been finishing the knobs and totes with shellac but I am going to try using Tru-oil instead.

Stanley barrel nuts
The ones on the left were used first by Stanley and then switched to the style on the left. Or maybe it was the other way around. Here's my take on them - the ones on the left I don't like and I don't use. I like the solid barrel nuts but these being brass they usually have the snot beat out of the slot. Bill Rittner sells replacements.

These are Bill Rittner replacement nuts
I can't tell the difference between Bill's barrel nuts and the original ones. Like all brass, the shine doesn't last.

the small parts
I remove all loose rust, clean, and degrease all the small parts first. I clean the threads with the wire brush and the dental pick. I then give them an EvapoRust bath. Out of the bath I'll sand the flats where I can and the stud barrels.

oiling the small parts is next
I only use the oil on the steel parts. No oil on any of the brass parts.

almost forgot about the adjuster knob
I've been cleaning and shining up the knob with this. You can get this at any grocery store or Wally World. This is the best stuff I've used to clean up the adjuster knobs. Even the filthy, grungy, dirty ones too.

tale of two knobs
The knob on the bottom left was cleaned and shined with Bar Keeps and then I used Autosol on it. The knob on the right is from the #4 I just got done rehabbing. That knob was only done with Bar Keeps and it is shiny but the Autosol knob is 3 frog hairs shinier. And it has a nice soft luster to it that the Bar Keeps one doesn't have.  I'll keep using the Bar Keeps and finishing them with Autosol. I can see a difference in the two that I couldn't capture with this pic.

this is a must
You will need a container of some kind to keep the parts together after you take the plane down to parade rest. This is a cereal container and I have boatload of them. Another choice would a chinese take out container. Always a good thing to have a few of them in the shop.

finger sanders
I got these from Lowes and if I remember correctly they are made by Shop Smith? They are flexible and conform nicely to the shape of the lever cap. Huge improvement in sanding with these over holding the sandpaper in your fingers. I'll be buying another set just for woodworking and I'll keep these dirty ones for metal work.

sanding blocks
I don't know how I did all the sanding before without these. They are various sized blocks of wood that I glued 1/4" thick cork to. I was doing the sanding by hand but no more - these sanding blocks are worth their weight in gold as far as I'm concerned..

needs some wood
This is basically how I now rehab a plane. This 4 1/2 is a daily user for  me and one that I am doing the rehab over on. I painted the body and the frog. I shined the lever cap and frog and once the tote and knob get some finish, this will take it's place at the top left corner of my bench.

I haven't given up on this yet
Lee Valley started their free shipping for orders over $40 and my order this morning came to $40.60. I bought some brown rouge that I hope will work on these wheels. I want to try them with the LV rouge before I buy another buffing wheel.

bought an adapter for the Craftsman ratcheting screwdriver
I bought the hex adapter for this and one for my braces. I am looking to get a 5 or 6 inch sweep brace that I can use to drive big blots or screws. I rounded out my order from LV with a set of cup and washer magnet sets that I might use on the rolling tool cabinet.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that the Japanese Nintendo Company made playing cards before it made computer games?

drawer prep......

Thu, 02/08/2018 - 1:00am
I was hoping to get the 4 1/2 together sans the knob and tote but it didn't happen. I started to do it but noticed a paint boo boo that I had to touch up. Tomorrow I should be able to get it put together without the wooden parts. The knob and tote still need to stripped and sanded so I can put a finish on them.

came in today
I'm thinking of using this on the 4 1/2 tote and knob. The only problem I see with it is that I've used shellac on every one of the other rehabs so far. I if put on this one it will stick out like the red headed stuttering step child. I've been thinking about it since I put it on the bench on which way to go with it. I think I'll put it on the 4 1/2 and if I like it, the 5 1/2 will get it too. It has shellac which I can easily strip off.

600 grit shine
Right below my baby finger is a patch on the lever cap. The sanding up to 600 grit blended it into the lever cap and made it noticeably less visible. I spent a few extra minutes sanding it more but I don't think I'll get it any better than this. I thought of buying another lever cap but I am going to keep this one.

the paint boo boo
I got this when I scraped the seats down here. I also have another one on both cheek walls and up by the upper frog seats. I got the ones here from sanded the frog seats.

drawer stock 1x8 - actually 7 1/2"

48 inches long
If I am lucky I could get two boards out of each about 3 1/2 inches wide. If I go this way I can get one drawer out of one board. That isn't always the case though. Straightening out one edge can eat up a lot of width if it is bowed or wonky in any other way. I don't have good luck with planing multiple boards to the same width and that is where I tend to lose a lot of width.

I bought 4 boards because my original intent was to use two boards to make one drawer. I am going to stick to that because I want the drawers to be 4 1/2 inches deep. Allowing for the groove and bottom will give an interior drawer depth of 4".

brown and red knot
The brown knot is on the side of the board I'll be keeping. After the drawer is done I'll epoxy the brown knot so it won't shrink and fall out.

this brown knot fell out
This knot was there when I brought this home. No matter as it is on the waste side of the board.

the knot board will give up the two backs

some weird grain about 2/3 of the way down
The straightest grained boards will be used for the sides. I don't like the grain swirl in this board so I'll use it for the fronts.

reference edge and face
 I ripped this a 16th over. I will plane the reference face flat before I cross cut out the drawer parts.

they are pretty straight and flat
I was very encouraged after looking at these tonight. I bought them on sunday and before I sawed them out they looked like this. Usually 1x pine from Lowes cups and bows after one day in the shop. Tomorrow I'll flatten one side and remove any twist. I'll let that sit and sticker for another day. I might get to dovetailing by friday.

scraped the front knob
I sanded it after I had scraped all of the finish off.

filed a fresh burr
raising a burr on the knife is very easy to do and it only takes a few seconds. I file the bevel on the sheet rock knife a few strokes. That puts a burr on the opposite side and it usually lasts long enough to scrape the whole knob.

ready for sanding
I can tell I scraped all the finish off because there isn't anything shiny left anywhere on the knob.

My father-in-law is out the ICU and on the regular ward. He may be discharged tomorrow to the rehab unit which is next door to the hospital. It doesn't look like he'll be going home but to a nursing home after rehab.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Henry Stanley of "Dr Livingston, I presume....." fame fought for both the south and the north in the American Civil War?

almost no shop time.......

Wed, 02/07/2018 - 12:26am
My father-in-law is still in ICU and his condition is unchanged. The doctors think that when he fell last week that it was caused by a stroke he suffered then and there. He also has mild dementia and that is getting worse with each passing week. It makes me sad me that he doesn't recognize his wife of almost 70 years anymore. He won't be going home but will going into a nursing home when and if he is discharged. That and this hospitalization, is the only time that he has ever been apart from his wife.

When I got home I could have spent more time in the shop but I didn't. I was thinking of my wife's father and my father. He passed on when he was 69. I could have gone and seen him at the hospital the night he was admitted but my wife's best friend was his nurse and she said he needed to rest and I should come see him the following day. He died the next morning at 0625 and I never got to see him. Not going to see him when I could have is a regret that I still feel over 20 years later.

frog is done
It took me a few minutes to get going here.The sanding broke me out of my funk but I didn't get the plane put back together. No matter as I didn't have much interest in doing that. I got the frog face sanded with 400 and 600 grit. I believe I found another step to add to my rehabbing.

been a while since I posted a blurry pic
What the pic is attempting to show is the comparison between the knob on left with Autosol on it and the knob on the right which was done with Bar Keeps Best Friend. I'll be putting Autosol on the knobs from now on. I will clean them first with Bar Keeps and use Autosol on them. The Autosol imparts a much higher shine and regular readers know how much I like shiny things.

Autosol on the frog
The pic doesn't show it that well but this frog looks great. I can still see a few scratch lines here and there but the face is shiny. I think I could shave with this because I can see myself in it. This may seem like a wasted step because who will see it? Me, and I will know that I have done it. I think it is just one step in the whole of making the plane look as good as I possibly can.

rough looking heel ends
I tried to sand this with the 150 grit sanding stick and it just laughed at me. It barely sanded a bit on the top and bottom edge. I reached for file because Ive found it is quick and easy to file any parts of the plane.

less then a minute on each side
The roughness is gone and there is bit of shine. I sanded it with the 150 grit sandpaper and it looks better now. Not as shiny smooth as the toe but much better than what it looked it.

who knew?
I sanded the lever cap up to 600 grit but the shine isn't as good as the frog face or the plane body. It is better, to my eye, then the patina look it had previously. I have sanded the caps on past rehabs but it was to remove rust, not raise a shine. I finished the plane body sanding too but didn't do the Autosol. Decided to quit here for the night. The sun will still rise tomorrow, I think.

tote 80% ready, knob 0%
Looking at these two pieces of wood made me think of what would happen to them if my dance ticket got punched tonight? Would someone even bother to put the 4 1/2 back together? Would they even know what these are for? While I was eating dinner I realized that it wouldn't mean diddly squat to me. But as long as my dance card is still active it will.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Brazilian jockey Jorge Ricardo recently tied record holder Canadian jockey Russell Blaze with 12,488 wins?

closing in on the 4 1/2......

Tue, 02/06/2018 - 1:17am
I have noticed a few issues with rehabbing so many tools lately. Doing this generates a lot of dirty, fine metallic dust. And I mean a lot of it. I have had 4 eye infections doing these and I'm sure it was from having dust on my fingers and wiping my nose or forehead. I said that I would wear gloves and dust mask but I wasn't very diligent in doing that. Another problem was getting the dust on my clothes and bringing it upstairs. That wasn't to bad of a problem but one plane I did, the dust it generated had a stench to it that would make a buzzard gag. So when I resume rehabbing in a few weeks I'll try to remember to use gloves, a dust mask, and wear a work apron.

from coat #1
Before I put on the second and final coat, I removed this from the sole.

ten seconds with 400 grit - you don't need a heavy grit
the body will be ready tomorrow
the frog is 99% done
I scraped the paint from the edges and sanded it with a 150 grit sandpaper stick.

trying toothpaste
I sanded this just enough to remove the paint. I am curious to see how toothpaste will work. I put it on the left side only so I could compare it to the right side.

I don't see an improvement
Both sides had scratches from the 150 grit I just used and the toothpaste didn't touch them. I also don't see a difference in shine between the two sides. I'm not giving up this yet and I'll try another brand of toothpaste. I am thinking maybe this sensitive toothpaste doesn't have much abrasive in it. I'll stop a Wally World and get a cleaning, whiting brand. That should have some abrasive in it.

 I didn't use Bar Keeps first but went right to the Autosol. The shine I got here is 10 times better than what I can get with Bar Keeps. I will try it on the rest of the knob and see how shines that up.

tote scraped and sanded to 120 grit
The tote and knob will hold up getting the 4 1/2 back together. I still have to scrape and sand the knob and spray on a few coats of shellac. I may hold off on the shellac because I bought some Tru-Oil and I should have it by thursday. Steve said that is what he uses on his tote and knobs so I may try it on this plane.

Stopped here because I got an email from my wife telling me that her father is in the ICU. The doctors said he had a stroke and has bleeding on the brain. We won't know anything for few days but it seems things aren't as serious as it seems. My fingers on crossed on this.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that baseball pitching great Sandy Koufax won a college athletic scholarship for basketball?

tire saga......

Mon, 02/05/2018 - 12:45am
The start of this blog will be a multiple rant all related to a tire. I'm sure that it will have a lot that appeal to all who read this keyboard diarrhea I output. Last week on wednesday as I was leaving for the day I couldn't because I had a flat tire. A tire that I had just bought and had less then two weeks of ownership on was sitting on the rim. I went today to get it plugged at Firestone because they have sunday hours.

I checked on line and it said they opened at 0800 so I was there waiting at 0755. Did they open at 0800? No they didn't. In fact, the place was empty with no one inside still at 0810. No lights were on but the open sign was well lit. I left at 0815 with no one there yet and went to two other tire stores. Both of them were closed on sunday so I headed back to Firestone.

I get back there at 0840 and the same guy that was there waiting the first time I was there, was still outside waiting. He told that they weren't open until 0900. There were people inside standing around drinking coffee and talking. Here's a customer service tip Firestone. If you change your hours, post them. That means change the hours on the front door. And here is a biggie, change them on the website too. One last tip, shut off the &;#@^()(%@^*#!!)&p;*$ bright red lit OPEN sign when you are closed.

I went home and called another Firestone and they were open so I went there. They told me it would be 3-4 hours before it was done. I said ok and my wife picked me up and we went grocery shopping. While we were shopping Firestone (roughly 20 minutes had passed) called and said the truck would be ready in 30 minutes. They said I needed a new air filter because the one I had was ripped. Here's another thought. I brought my truck in for a tire problem, why is my engine hood open? How did you know I needed an air filter and why did you check my battery too?

The upstroke was that I was told I needed a new tire. They said the one I bought in could be plugged but it may develop a bubble. A new tire from them was $195 plus tax and a tire disposal fee. I didn't get the new tire and it cost me $59 for a new air filter and plugging one tire.

The last part of the rant is this. I asked them to put the tire they swapped on the right front back in the spare holder under the truck. The plugged tire has the sensor that will shut off the idiot light on the dashboard. Where did they put the spare tire? In the bed of the pickup. I'll make an appointment at the shop that did the tires a couple of weeks ago and get a replacement for the 'bubble' tire. At least all four tires will be the same and maybe they will figure out how to get the spare tire back into it's holder. Rant done and I will resume my regularly scheduled blog.

Air Gunnery, model AG-3  brown portable, collapsible spray booth
This is brown wrapping paper from Lee Valley and I use it to contain the over spray. I sprayed the primer on the 4 1/2 saturday night after dinner.

have some scraping to do
I put the screws in the holes and sprayed away. I meant to put some wax on the frog seats first but that didn't happen.

frog looks good
I got a tip on trying toothpaste to remove scratches and shine metal. If I remember I'll give that a try on this tomorrow.

I try to paint within the lines
large spills need a razor blade
For smudges I would just sand them off. I could also do that on these bigger ones but it clogs the sandpaper. I scrape them off first and then sand.

it should sand this without clogging
cleans up easily
This needs one more coat and tomorrow I'll repeat these dance steps and the frog will be done.

oil based Rustoleum black enamel
With all the tools I've done so far, I have only used about a 1/4 of this. A little bit goes a very long way.

small detail brush
If I am careful and take my time, I can paint all around the frog seat areas without getting paint on them. If I'm not, it is easy to scrape off but the key is to do it as soon as possible. The longer you wait and the longer it gets to set up, the harder it is to scrape off.

I can't use this one
I was toying with gluing and screwing this to the end here. I am going to put a big front on this and I need some meat to be able to attach it to.

why I'm saving this
This is perfectly sized for what the drawer front needs to be to fit between the drawer slides.

the drawer and sliding tray front stock
I am going to use this plywood to make the drawer and sliding tray fronts continuous. It is something that I don't think I have ever tried to do.

this is encouraging
It just missing the Lee Valley rabbet plane box. The tray is fully extended and it isn't tipping over. I was a little concerned about having to deal with that in the finished product.

plenty of room for a LV plane box
I will also have to make room for a brace of some king for the tray front. As of now I can only attach it at the bottom and opening and closing it would put a lot of stress on it.

made a change in plans
The blue tape is the height of the boxes plus a few inches. I did this to get an idea of the space available above the sliding tray when it is loaded up.

I have about 10 inches to play with
I decided on two drawers instead of one. I will have extra room in each drawer for future additions. It will also give me a lot more freedom with what goes where and how.

made a Lowes run after the tire rant
I bought a 20" drawer guide and some 1x8 stock for making the two drawers.

1/2" stock
This was my first choice for the drawers but I can't use it. The instructions in the drawer slides state that the sides of the drawer have to be a minimum of 5/8" thick. I'll let the 1x stock sticker for a few days before I do anything with it.

found this cleaning up
The #5 at the back will become my new Jack. The one in the front I'll give to Miles. He has a 5 1/4 right now but he'll be able to grow into this one. I had bought the Jack in the back to be a spare but I like the feel of the tote and knob on it better than the forefront one.

it has a corrugate sole
Not a deal breaker because of the knob and tote.

lots of pitting on this side
This was derusted at some point previous to me getting it. I'm not sure how this will shine up but I'll find out. I know I said that I was taking a break from rehabbing but I feel the tug for getting this done to see what it will look like.

what is the dimple for?
This plane has a drop dead gorgeous front mushroom knob. Was the dimple an errant hang hole drilled in the wrong spot?

the clincher
It has no frog adjust which I think is unnecessary for a plane. And of course, I will be replacing the tote toe screw with a brass one.

Moving this off and on the sawhorses is not easy to do. The weight of it isn't the problem, it is trying to hold it and moving it. I'll be glad when it's done and under the workbench.

planing the top
I didn't see this yesterday when I planed the bottom proud. The top is proud also but not as much as the bottom was. The jack made short work of getting it flush.

this is how Frank
Frank had asked how the cabinet was sitting on the saw horses. This spacer goes in between the ends to fill in the space. It is normally stowed on the lower rail.

a wee bit over the top of the round
I thought I had more over the top then a wee bit. The idea was to have the spacers above the round so whatever was placed on them wouldn't touch the tops of the rounds and flatten them. I'll have to put this on the shop maintenance list in column K, heading #2, subparagraph 56b, line e-1.3 so I don't forget it.

adding a nailer to the front
This is a 1/2 piece of scrap poplar that I sawed to fit underneath the tray. I had to chisel a few pockets to fit over the screws and tabs.

pocket to fit over the tab
the screwing in trio
I like this ratcheting screwdriver a lot but I'm finding that it has it's limits. It did ok on this but it wasn't a smooth operation. I should have used the bigger craftsman ratcheting driver but I don't have an adapter for it yet.

it's too snug
The poplar fills the spacer in and gives me solid wood to glue and screw into. I planed the poplar down a bit to give it some room to clear.

putting one at the back
I was surprised by how stiff the tray became with just the front filler. I put on at the back and the tray feels even stiffer. This should help with keeping the tray from bowing across it's width. If it does that, it'll be hard to open and close it.

cut and fitted a diagonal brace
went with one brace
I thought of making an x brace but I only had one piece of scrap. I glued and screwed this to the bottom. It is a lot stronger and stiffer now with these 3 additions. It definitely has a more substantial feel to it now over just a plain piece of 1/2 plywood.

my springs came in on saturday
I could have bought a spool of wire (900 feet long and the same diameter as the springs) for about $8 less than what I paid for all of these.  This company has a $25 minimum order so I bought a lot of similar sized but different types of springs. A few of them I'll have to cut to get the length to match the existing springs.

new spring on the bottom - old one on top
they don't compress that much
I tried to get the three jaws to come together but it wasn't happening. All the springs I bought fit in the holes of the chuck pieces but none closed up on them. Even accounting for the springs being over length, it wasn't happening.

It dawned me after looking at the inside of the chuck that the bottom doesn't close up. It is the top that closes in and comes together. As the chuck is tightened, the jaws move upwards and close around the bit. The bottom of the jaws ride the bottom taper of the inside of the chuck which is wider then the top where the bit is being pinched. The bottom flares outward and the springs keep the jaws from falling apart.

The existing springs have little or no resistance to being compressed so I'll pick the closest spring of the ones I bought. I'll snip it to match the length of the one good existing spring I have and go from there.  I'll be rehabbing this drill later than sooner.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know Coca Cola was originally billed as an "Esteemed Brain Tonic and Intellectual Beverage" in 1886?

did some woodworking.....

Sun, 02/04/2018 - 2:29am
I sawed up some plywood so that counts as woodworking. It felt good to play with wood and not metal even though it didn't last the whole day long. In the end I went back to rehabbing the 4 1/2 but only because it is a daily user for me. The #3 will have to wait and it will probably get done next month, maybe. I ran into something that gets put at the head of the line over it. I'll get to what that is later on.

10 1/2 is redone
It took a lot of dance steps to get the frog set at the right spot. I didn't have this much trouble the first time but I also didn't take note of where the frog was on the seat. I had it set too far forward initially and I had to keep tapping it backwards. I didn't want the mouth to be tight so I did it in small increments and that is why it took so long.

I got the left, middle, right shavings set and the last step was to shoot a rabbet. This plane could also be a smoother but I use it just for rabbeting.

port side
aft, starboard quarter
This is ready to go back to the herd.

marking the proud
Working on the roll around tool cabinet. I had purposely left this proud so I could plane it after the glue set to whatever way the box ended up. I marked both sides and used a ruler to connect them.

no wonder I needed a break
There are 14 tools here and there are more but I couldn't fit them all in one pic. With the exception of 3 hand planes, all of these were done within the last 4-5 months with the bulk in last 2.

2 #4 Stanleys
Why didn't I pick up on this and do the lever caps back then? Even though the shine on them doesn't wow me, what shine there is looks better than the previous one. At least I am improving on what I am doing. And no, I'm not a patina fan.

10 1/2 on the left and #3 on the right
These two are about the same size but the 10 1/2 looks better. I did a good job on rehabbing the #3 but the new extra steps I added to my plane rehabbing shows. Rather then do the #3 under the workbench I'll be doing these first.

Two #6s
The left #6 is mine and the right one is Miles's. Re-doing the rehab on his will be quick and relatively painless. All I have to do is the lever cap to bring it up to level of mine.

the last 3
These bring the tool total up to 17. The 4 1/2 I'm doing now will make 18. I'll redo the ones from Miles's toolbox but I won't count them again. The router plane, Record 044 plow, and the Stanley 78 rabbet plane, are the only tools that I made boxes to keep them in.

I forgot about a #3 I rehabbed around christmas. Ken Hatch sent me a #3 for Miles's toolbox but I already had #3 for Miles. So with Ken's blessing, I rehabbed it and sent it across the big pond to someone else. The revised total is 19.

no room to hang it from here, my first choice
The #6 plane gets stowed here and the tote would be in the way.

hanging spot #2
This would have worked here. It's below the ledge for the tool trays and it fits. However, I had to rearrange how the planes were stowed and this free space went away. A #4 plane now lays up against this end taking away the hanging space.

back to planing to the knife line
had a hump on the first check

I'm still square at the front and back
a frog hair off on the side to side
It is ever so slightly tighter at the front then the back. It is maybe the thickness of a piece of paper.

the same here too
Drawers slides need to be 0 to + 1/32" off front to back on parallel. Before I sawed out the plywood tray I wanted to see what I was up against. I'm good and within specs.

3rd time was the charm
I started with the plywood tray being a strong 16th over in the width. It was too tight and the slides wouldn't operate. The 2nd trim helped some but it was too stiff going in/out for my liking. On the third shave I got the fit just right. It slides in/out smoothly with no binding or hold ups along the length of travel.

why did we stop using this?
I like the positive control I have with this. I have found it (so far) to be impossible to over drive a screw. That is very easy to do with a hand drill (battery type).

still working nicely
I have the tray screwed to the drawer slide and it still works in/out smoothly. I don't have a lot of experience with installing these and I tend to be over cautious and double triple check myself throughout the installation.

I have in past installs got the tray screwed on and that made it tight. It is usually because a screw(s) is throwing the slides out of parallel. Now that the tray is ok I will screw the slides to sides of the cabinet. I only put in two screws, one at the front and one at the rear, and check the operation.

still working smoothly with two screws
still working - drawer front or a door?
I got full extension slides and with it fully extended, the cabinet is still laying on the saw horses. I don't know how it will be once I have the tool boxes loaded in here.

I need to push the slides back
allowance for adjustment
I put the screws in the elongated slots first for this purpose. It is a simple matter of loosening the screws and pushing the slide back. If I didn't have enough backwards movement, I would put the screw in the next elongated slot and start over.

I have the tray extended a little past 1/2 way and it isn't causing the cabinet to trip forward. Maybe I will be able to fully extend it when the cabinet is done. I haven't forgotten that I need to make a new box for the LV rabbet plane.

time to use your imagination
The area to the left within the blue tape is the interior of the top drawer. I thought of making two drawers but I think I'll go with one. I don't have that many chisels that I need two drawers for them. I'm using this to figure out the layout for chisels going in the drawer.

a lot of chisels to be stowed
I have 6 sets of chisels spread out around the shop. This is the main purpose of the tool cabinet - to give all my chisels one place to call home.

I have an idea - I know this because I have a headache
One big deep drawer. Chisels that I use most of the time on top and the infrequent use ones in the bottom. Now I have flesh that out and see if it is feasible.

first bottom layout
top layout
I was thinking of reusing the box for the AI chisels and the board for the LN chisels. In order to get access to the bottom stuff I will have to lift either one of these out first. That would be a bit of a PITA to do. I think a better choice is two sliding tills that I can move R/L to get access to what is underneath.

I wanted to use these because I wouldn't have to make anything. I might be able to use the AI box and make something similar for the LN chisels. Either way, just the AI and LN chisels will be topside.

it will slide
I will put dividers on the bottom to not only separate the chisels but also to give the topside tills something to slide on.

possible storage for the big AI chisels
layout #2
The AI and Buck paring chisels are dictating how and what goes where.

proposed dividers
I am now thinking of putting all the chisels in place with dividers. No other holding gadgets for  any of the chisels, even the big AI ones.

I may keep the angled thing for AI chisels
I don't want the bottom drawer dividers to be higher than 2". That is the width of the largest AI chisel and with a holder the OAH (over all height) will exceed that. Something to sleep on as nothing is carved in stone yet.

back to the 4 1/2 to finish the shop day
I want to get this stripped, cleaned, and the primer sprayed on. I also wanted to paint the yoke and the frog.

I don't have any shavings to clean up the stripper so I used the sawdust generated by the tablesaw.

stripper box
The sawdust worked a lot better than the shavings. I did it in this box so it wouldn't get all over the workbench and the shop. The sawdust acted like a sponge soaking up water. It got almost all of the stripper and clumped up like kitty litter. The shavings are history and the lead off batter from now on will be sawdust.

almost ready for primer
Almost every bit of the japanning came off with the first application of the stripper. After the sawdust soaked up the stripper, I washed and rinsed the plane and blew it dry. I sanded the heel with 100 grit sandpaper and this is what I ended up with. I did the rest of the plane and cleaned it with acetone.  After dinner I came back to the shop, cleaned it again with acetone and sprayed the primer on.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know on the Professional Golf Association tour that a player is only allotted 45 seconds for each shot?

I'm reaching my limit.......

Sat, 02/03/2018 - 12:17am
I lost count on how many tools I've rehabbed in the past few months. It is about all I've done with very little woodworking happening.  I think I've rehabbed 8 and I have 4 more that I'm doing. Two of them are definite with the third being 50-50 and the 4th one ain't happening anytime soon. I've had enough of rehabbing and I want to get back to woodworking before I forget how to do it.

2nd coat of paint on
This is close to the distance I saw the bumpy edges yesterday before I filed them. Today the sides look pretty good. Smooth, shiny, and flat looking along all the edges. I will be checking and doing all my future frogs this way.

I said wow this time
I can't put the frog on until tomorrow but I could sand and Autosol some parts. I said wow this time when I got done with the lever cap. The plane body isn't too shabby looking neither.

It says on the tube this does brass and the adjuster knob is brass. I put  some on and I will definitely keep an eye on this to see how well it keeps the brass shiny. If it works, I'll go back and Autosol all the other adjuster knobs.

the 4 1/2 before pic
This is the definite rehab one and it could be the last one for a while. The lever cap is what I was doing with them back then. I cleaned it with degreaser and that was it. I'll try to sand a shine up on it. I tried to buff the barrel nuts on the buffer after putting some Autosol on them. It kind of shined them up but I know I can raise a better shine sanding them with 400 grit sandpaper.

the Autosol protection
Not quite as shiny but the Autosol on the 4 1/2 was last applied about 3-4 months ago. In that time the 4 1/2 has been my daily user along with the 5 1/2. I keep the both of them on the bench at the top left corner ready to go.

first time I've noticed this writing
I scratched the bald spot for a few minutes but it didn't help. I still don't have a clue as to what the writing means. And I won't be preserving it for future generations to look at.

filed the side
This wasn't as bumpy as the 10 1/2 frog but it is now smoother than what it was. Repeated it for the other side.

filed the lateral adjust lever edge
This was pitted and I had sanded it but it didn't do much for it. The file knocked off 99% of it and I sanded it again to remove the filing marks.

I'll be flattening the 10 1/2 iron again
I have a couple of low spots and I don't have a consistent look side to side. Not getting anything up under the chipbreaker but I'm still going to flatten it again.

consistent side to side after a few minutes on 100 grit sandpaper
I'll finish working up through my stones but I'll do that tomorrow. My fingers started protesting half way through th100 grit.

the #3 that has a 50-50 chance
I did this plane  couple of years ago. The body had been sanded up to 600 grit but it has had no Autosol applied at all.

I think I sprayed painted the body
After I take this apart I'll check out the body. If it has been done, I might finish this to my new standards. The hardest part is done and what is left isn't that difficult to complete.

#7 - this was the first or second plane I rehabbed
Sanded up to ??? - I don't remember. I know that this have never seen Autosol and this what the plane has weathered to since I rehabbed it. Cherry knob and tote made by Bill Rittner.

the sole
I don't use this plane anywhere near how much I use the 4 1/2 or the 5 1/2. This is what it looks like after being sanded post 3+ years and with out ever having Autosol. This one will take a bit more rehab calories to get it up to the new standards. One biggie on this plane will be stripping and painting the body and the frog.

my #8

This plane got the body sanded and a Bill Rittner cherry knob and tote to replace a painted hardwood set. My favorite Stanleys are the type 11's on down. This #8 is a type 15-16 if I remember right. I decided that I'm not going to invest the calories in rehabbing a plane type I don't like. I will sell this one and buy a #8 type that I like.

So this is what is going on in my world. I will finish the 10 1/2 and do the 4 1/2. The #3 may or may not get done. It may because the #3 is a plane that I use a lot more than the #7 and the #8. The rest of the planes in the herd will be done as I feel like doing them.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that St Louis, Missouri, was the first US city to host the Olympics in 1904?

5 1/2 done again......

Fri, 02/02/2018 - 12:36am
I finished the 5 1/2 (again) and I blame it on my increasing skill in rehabbing planes. I was happy with what I did the first time but some things change for the better. I think that taking the 5 1/2 a couple of more steps paid off. Now, not only do I have a plane that still works like a dream, it is pretty darn good looking too. I am hoping that I don't find something else I can add to the rehabbing steps with future ones because I want these to stay done.

After I completed the 5 1/2 I started back on the 10 1/2. I thought it would have been a simple follow up rehab and it would have been done tonight too. Instead I took a left turn and upped the ante. I don't remember all that I did on the first rehab but there were a few steps that I am doing now that I didn't do then. It'll be this weekend before I will be able to put a check mark in the done column for the 10 1/2.

up to 400 grit
I'm still not getting a wow shine on the lever cap. But it is an improvement over my previous doings. I went from just cleaning and degreasing, to sanding to remove rust, to trying to shine them. Not very shiny but shinier than what I got from just a clean and degreasing.

10 1/2 on the left   5 1/2 on the right
 The 5 1/2 cleaned up pretty good with the Bar Keeps. The 10 1/2 knob will need a bit more help to bring up a 100% shine.

before and after brushes
A brand new brass brush on the left and what it looks like after cleaning two adjuster knobs with Bar Keeps.

still not a wow
I used Autosol on the lever cap and I can see a slight difference. It cleaned it some and raised a bit of a shine. I think I'll have to be content with the shine level and go with the protection it affords.

put on the frog too
I put it on mostly for the protection factor.

back together
It only took a few dance steps to get my shavings spitting out correctly. Same width and thickness on the left, the middle, and the right. The 5 1/2 is done and has rejoined the herd.

the before and after
The 5 1/2 looked similar to the 4 1/2 before I rehabbed it for the second time.

stern view comparison
this is a sweet looking daily user
the shine on the lever cap looks good on the bow shot
the before pic
I thought this looked ok for a daily user before I went down this rabbit hole. I remembered to take a before pic of this one but not the 10 1/2.

found an ugly spot - 10 1/2 frog
The sideswere bare in a few spots before I painted it yesterday. I lightly sanded it tonight to see if I could remove the bumps along the edges. I couldn't and I don't like the rough textured look on this sides. This and the other side of the frog will be visible on the finished plane. I used the file on this to smooth it out.

filed and smoothed
I didn't go nutso on this - I just wanted to remove the bumpy look along the edges.

the other side
This side was sanded and I totally forgot to snap a pic of it after I filed it smooth.

didn't forget to get a pic of it painted
It looks better than the paint job from yesterday.

the other side painted
used a small brush to paint the area around the lateral adjust
Wally World brushes
I got these in the art department at Walmart. 10 brushes for less than $10. I thought if I got one use out of each of them I got my money back on them So far I have used only 3 and the same three for all the tools I have painted. So far they are holding up with all the painting and cleanings. The third brush from the left is the one that I use 99% of the time.

knob and tote for the 10 1/2
I sprayed 3 coats on the two and they look a lot better than what I started with. Most of the 10 1/2 is rehabbed. The frog will have to get a second coat and that will hold up finishing this plane until this weekend.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know a golden set in tennis is where the score is 6-0, with the winner not losing a single point?

troubles come in threes.......

Thu, 02/01/2018 - 12:23am
Maybe it is an old wives tale and maybe it's just total crappola. But I have had two troubles with the third happening today. When I left work to come home, I had the fun of having a flat tire to deal with. There was no mistaking the tire was flat and sitting on the rim and I wasn't going home right then and there. I have AAA and they responded to my service call in a little over a half an hour. I was thinking maybe the Tire Gods were smiling down at me.

The service guy filled the tire up and he could hear a low hiss of air once he was done. He ran his hand over the tire and found a bolt stuck in it. Cause of the flat found and then I got a real pleasant surprise. My pickup truck had a full sized spare tire. AAA changed the tire and I got the joy of  driving home in the rush hour traffic. Will the fun just stop now and let me off the merry go round?

The tire problems started this morning when I left for work. All four tires were stuck and frozen to the driveway and I had to do some rocking back and forth to break them free. The skid indication on the dashboard went into overdrive and wouldn't shut off until I got to Warwick Ave. The truck was also making a funny noise and was pulling to the right. That was the tire that went flat - right front passenger side.

I thought I had thrown the truck's front alignment off breaking free of the ice. When I got to work I looked at all four tires and they looked ok so I went into work. I figured if I had the same problems going home, I would make an appointment and have the front end checked. With the spare tire on, the pulling to the right disappeared and the rubbing noise was gone too. I'll get the tire plugged and put back on the truck this weekend.

the 10 1/2 frog
It was 1645 before I got down to the shop. I didn't have any time to do anything but check on what I had done last night. I hit this with a couple swipes of 320 grit and the bottom where the iron sits is high on the left and low on the right. It looks like I'll be adding a few days to getting the 10 1/2 up to the standards of my recent rehabs.

tarnished and not so shiny
I expect this with the brass and I'll hit the both of them again with Bar Keeps Best Friend. I remember in metal shop in Junior High School that anything brass, that was meant to be shiny, we dipped in lacquer to keep it that way. I am thinking of spraying one of them with lacquer to see how it holds up to it.

kind of shiny
I hit this with the HF buffer and it doesn't look that bad. It still didn't make me say wow but maybe with the right rouge it will.

it's in there somewhere
I didn't have a good grip on the brown rouge and the buffer wheel caught it and flung it in here somewhere. I couldn't put more rouge on the wheel to see if it would make me say wow.

5 1/2 frog is done
All I had to do to finish this was sand the face to remove the paint spills.

the backside
I sanded the frog seat and the bottom pads that contact by the mouth. Tomorrow I'll touch up the plane body with 400 and 600 grit and put some Autosol on it. If I get the adjuster knob shiny, I'll put it together and it will be done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that a 6 foot wide shuffleboard court is 52 feet long?

snow et al things.......

Wed, 01/31/2018 - 12:27am
The weather seers were predicting 0-1 inch of snow falling overnight into the morning commute and stopping around noon. They were wrong on both counts. About 2-3 inches fell and it stopped around 0900. The drive into work was an adventure because almost nothing was plowed. All the side streets to Rte 10 were a complete mess and Rte 10 only had one lane clear. Not a problem because once I got on it, I was all alone all the way to work.

Had another problem that came up yesterday. My father-in-law slipped and fell in his kitchen and broke a vertebrae. He went to the ER(?) where an x-ray showed the break and he was sent home. I don't know anymore than that about it. Today he can't get out of bed so my wife is going there to have medicare get a home health aide to come in to help with his daily needs.

Normally my wife's sister, who lives down the street from her parents, would be doing it. But she has the flu and can't be around them. So my wife is leaving tomorrow to get the paperwork started but I think she is in for a surprise because she has never dealt with something like this before.

changed lanes on the 10 1/2
It is illuminating to look at this plane that I already rehabbed and compare it to what I am doing now.  I can see a few differences and this paint job is first. I was surprised by some things I did on this plane that I left as being done as being good also. It seems as my rehab experience has increased, my skill set it doing individual items in the rehab have increased too.

I do like shiny
I don't think that I spray painted too many planes. Maybe 2 or 3 at the most. I like the look of this enamel paint applied by hand. I am going to repaint the 10 1/2 and I won't be doing the wax on and off dance steps.

I think I can get away with one coat
The 5 1/2 should be ready to be put back together tomorrow. The 10 1/2 may take another day as I found a couple of things that needed attention. The frog had to be touched up with paint in few areas. I don't remember painting it back then, It may need a second coat tomorrow. I also will have to sand the frog face because it looks like I never did it.

typical Harbor Freight crappola
The manual says that this can not be stalled. That is total BS. I can not only stall it, I can stop it dead with very little effort. I slowed it down to nothing applying the brown rouge and did the same buffing a lever cap. As long as I keep this in mind, this will work. I don't anticipate this getting a lot of long term work anyway.

10 1/2 lever cap
I sanded it with 120 and then buffed it with the brown rouge. This is the level of shine that I got.

sanded with 220
I got a better shine with the sandpaper than I did with the buffer. Maybe this is a metal that doesn't like to be worked on a buffer.  I will continue my shining efforts with sandpaper and I'll go up to 400 and call it done with that.

casting pits on this flat
got a bigger one on the opposite flat
I won't be able to sand and feather these out. I'll sand and shine them the best I can and I'll have to live with it.

another comparison
10 1/2 tote and knob compared to my just finished 5 1/2 tote and knob. The 10 1/2 is a light colored rosewood which I like. I will spray a couple of coats of shellac on it and see how it compares then.

Another short night in the shop but I have to help my wife get ready for going to upstate New York tomorrow.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know the standard width of a bowling alley is 41 1/2 inches plus or minus a 1/2 inch, excluding the gutters?

feeling like crap......

Tue, 01/30/2018 - 12:27am
I started to get a headache round about noon-ish today. It is one of those annoying ones that hovers on the periphery deciding what it wants to be when it grows up. It would throb a little for a while and then fade away. Off and on all afternoon and when I got home it settled behind my eyes. It almost kept me out of the shop and it did shorten the to do list significantly.

left over 044 parts
I picked out the best ones and put them on the plow I'm giving to Miles.

I had buffed the nickel plating on the fence and the top of the plane yesterday. I didn't make me say wow.  It was more of a humph. The rods I wiped down with 4-0 steel wool and the nickel on the screws and such I'm leaving as is. I don't think I would raise any appreciable shine with the rouge I have. I will make a pit stop at Harbor Freight this weekend and get some rouge and a new buffing wheel.

had to do some rearranging
My submarine training paid off again. I haven't lost my touch with putting 20 pounds of crap into a 5 pound test bag. I don't have any more toolboxes or planes to put in here so this is pretty much carved in stone.

giving both of these to Miles
I was thinking of making holders for the both of these and attaching them to walls in the bottom above the planes. I'm not sure I have the room for that now that I have rearranged things. I will check it out this weekend if I remember it.

the final resting places of all the toys
6 coats of shellac
It darkened up like I expected and obscures most of the grain on the tote (except at the top) and all of the knob.

scraped the primer off the frog seat
bottom came off pretty easy too
I used the Harbor Freight heavy duty scrapper at the bottom.

painting the lettering and numbers
I don't want to have any paint pool in the letters/numbers so I over brushed this area checking for that. I came back and stroked it a bit more with a dry brush after the paint had set up for a few minutes or so.

This will need coat #2 tomorrow but the frog and the yoke will be done. I put the second coat of black on them tonight.

10 1/2
I did a full blown, sand, strip, and paint rehab of this last year or was it the year before? I didn't hand paint the plane, instead I had prayed it. It is has a dull matte look and it needs some shine there. I am not going to repaint and the first step towards shiny will be cleaning it first.

then I'll wax it
I will take the knob and tote off to apply the wax and get rid of the interference when I buff it out. I think this paint has had plenty of time to cure. I shouldn't have any problems applying wax to it now.

another plug for Autosol
I used Autosol on this way back when I finished the rehab. I haven't applied any since and I have used this several times to make rabbets. It still looks good and this is where I ran out of gas for the night.

The plan was to get this waxed and buffed tonight and call it done. The #3 might need some painting. I can't remember how far I went with the rehab on that one. I did it several years ago so I probably didn't strip and paint it. Checking that one out will have to wait until tomorrow or possibly the day after.

Blogger bit me on the arse again. I published two comments, one from Sparks, and another from Steve, and both ended up in a black hole somewhere. I can't access the comments for this blog post at all. It's annoying to me that I don't know what causes the comments to freeze like this and lock me out of them. So my apologies Sparks and Steve, I think they got published but I can't respond to them

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Did you know that Mort Walker drew the Beetle Bailey comic strip for over 50 years? (he passed away today at age 94)