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Vintage ‘Cheesecake’ Postcards for Your Shop

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 7:15am


Years ago I visited a well-know tool collector and was completely charmed by a series of 1910 postcards that adorned his stairwell. Each postcard featured a modestly dressed woman posing with a tool. The surface of each postcard featured some low-level pun: “Its perfectly plane that I love you.” (Yes, they made a grammatical error there.)

At the bottom of each postcard was written: Copyright 1910 by F. Bluh.

The tool collector had amassed the postcards during many years of searching (before eBay existed). I thought these postcards would make a nice shop decoration and made a note to search some out.

Then life got in the way. John and I had started Lost Art Press, then I quit my job and forgot about the postcards. Earlier this year, Suzanne Ellison stumbled on one of them, she sent it to me and it reignited my desire to collect them.

I now have 13 of them (there are more, but 13 is enough for me). I’m going to frame them this week and decided that you might like to have them for your shop as well. So I scanned each at 300 dpi, did some mild repair and sharpening and have bundled them in the following .zip file that you can download.


These images are entirely in the public domain. Feel free to print them on photo paper and hang them in your shop or stairwell.

Of the postcards, I have two favorites. The oil can postcard and the handscrew postcard. The oil can postcard says: “If sympathy can’t soothe you, perhaps oil can. What.” What does “what” mean? “What” the heck? The handscrew postcard is just creepy. The woman has a half-lidded “Ringu” expression on her face and the text reads: “I like to be squeezed.”

— Christopher Schwarz, editor, Lost Art Press
Personal site: christophermschwarz.com

Filed under: Personal Favorites, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

At 16:23 Marc Spagnuolo claims he’s not the best person to talk...

Giant Cypress - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 6:58am

At 16:23 Marc Spagnuolo claims he’s not the best person to talk about Japanese saws, and then does a nice job talking about pros and cons of Japanese saws. Video game controllers are also referenced. Completely worth watching.

He also gives me a shout out. Thanks, Marc!

Hay is for Horses

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 4:38am

Just as the Lost Art Press Horse Garage has been nearing completion, this happened.



Hay field on a gray late-autumn day


Whenever my sister or I said “Hey” as children, at least within earshot of our local grandma (the other grandma lived far away, in New York), we were gently nudged in a more genteel direction. “Hay is for horses,” she’d say.

But European art suggests that hay and gentility have not always been at odds.

Twice this week I heard from Suzanne Ellison (a.k.a. Lost Art Press’s saucyindexer). Unbeknownst to me, The Saucy One had turned some images of the hayrake table I made for my book on English Arts & Crafts furniture (forthcoming in June 2018 from Popular Woodworking) into a framework for a collage of women using traditional hay rakes.

Hayrake collage jpg

“I thought if a woman builds a Hayrake Table than she should probably have a collage combining her table and women using a hay rake (apparently, men scythed and women raked and fluffed),” wrote Suzanne.

Judging by their attire, most of these women are peasants (as were my grandma’s forebears), but a couple look far more refined. Please tell me that Rosina (center row, right) was not really going to rake and fluff hay in high heels and a ribboned bonnet. And what about that corseted lady in the middle of the top row?

I’m grateful to Suzanne for applying her erudition in the cause of fun. And I chuckled when I read how she addressed me in the last message: “Hey Nancy.”


Suzanne has provided the following Information about the images:

Top row (from the left): Jean-Francois Millet, a watercolor from a mid-Victorian** friendship book, Winslow Homer.

Middle left: Peter Breugel.  Middle right: Rosina is dated 12 May 1794 by Laurie & Whittle, London (no other info), but much earlier than the mid-Vic watercolor in the top row.

Bottom row: Camille Pissarro, Maud Mullen by John Gast, after J.G. Brown, ‘Sweet Memories’ a postcard from around 1905, Leon-Augustin Lhermitte.

Center portion: butterfly from your table, a Shaker hay rake from Hancock Shaker Village in Massachusetts, hayrake from an original table (your photo), hayrake from your table.

The frame, as you know, is constructed from your table.

**Here is a link to the mid-Victorian watercolor in the top row, it is for sale (£28.00):



Filed under: Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Cyber Monday: Take 10% Off Our Storewide 50% Sale!

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Mon, 11/27/2017 - 1:01am
Cyber Monday 2017

Folks, I got word from our marketing team that you can use our Cyber Monday coupon code, MONDAY10, on top of our 50% sale through Midnight Mountain Time! You’ll see all stock that is eligible for discount marked down 50% over at ShopWoodworking.com and you can add the MONDAY10 coupon code when you are checking out. Hand Tool Basics Woodworking Tools & How to Use Them By Steve Branam This […]

The post Cyber Monday: Take 10% Off Our Storewide 50% Sale! appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Online Translation - University Of Michigan

Toolemera - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 9:18pm

University Of Michigan Library Diderot Online


For your reading pleasure, The University Of Michigan has kindly hosted an ongoing French to English translation of the famous Diderot & d'Alembert Encyclopedia of EveryThing Known To Man (sic). I recommend using the Browse By Plates until you are comfortable with the deep search functions.

UMich Diderot Browse By Plates

Categories: Hand Tools

Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 4: Rivierre Nails

Chris Schwarz's Pop Wood Blog - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 4:25pm

The wire nails at the home center stink for making furniture. Don’t even think of them as nails. They are more like greased straws than they are fasteners. Once you try Rivierre forged nails, I think you’ll develop a deep respect for the nail that has Roman DNA. Nails built this country. At one point in the 19th century, the sale of nails was a significant amount of the country’s […]

The post Anarchist’s 2017 Gift Guide, Day 4: Rivierre Nails appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: Hand Tools

saw till et al.........

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 3:00pm
Most of the day was spent on the saw till but in the early AM I did a few other things.  I had gone to the shop at oh dark 45 but I didn't do much beyond giving a lot things some really good goofy looks. My wife slept in late so I couldn't run the bandsaw which is want I wanted to use. I put the time to good use surfing the net and buying a few xmas presents. This is the first year in a long time I am not done with my xmas shopping by thanksgiving. I'll probably be done by the 1st so Santa can cross me off the list then.

this I could do at oh dark 45
I steel wooled the both of them and put on the final coat of shellac.

2nd oh dark 45 thing
I was going to oil the iron and chipbreaker when I noticed that I didn't finish the flattening of the back. All I did was the 80 grit runway but I like going up to 8k and putting a shine on the back.

I placed this piece of 6mm plywood at the end of the iron and I applied pressure to it with my palm. It speeds up the flattening by a factor of 100 over using my fingers. The best advantage of using was it saves my fingers. If I had done all the flattening with my fingers they would singing arias now and I would be way laid.

better shine and I can see the bottle reflection in it
something I've not seen before
This design makes more sense then the studs and barrel nuts. I had to double triple check the #3 these came off to make sure it was a Stanley and it was. I'm pretty sure it is a WWII plane based on the thickness of the plane's walls. So maybe this is a war time substitution because of the prohibitions on brass.

the japanning is almost 100%
I got this #3 from Ken Hatch for my grandson's toolbox but I already had given him one. With the pre-blessing from Ken, I'll rehab this and pass it on to someone who needs it. A little shining of the brass adjuster knob and the plane sole is all that is needed on this. It shouldn't take me more than an hour or two at most.

wife finally got up
I got all the slots sawn again and then I sawed off the part to the right of the oak strip.

slipped on without a whimper
I had a difficult time pulling this handle off and I was expecting the same fun putting it back on. No problems putting it on at all. Slipped on like it was greased and no problems moving it around to line up the holes.

shellac filled in the holes
The screws won't fit in the holes.

punched out the shellac build up
still won't fit
I was trying not to hammer this Cro Magnon style. I was barely doing love taps on it because it shouldn't need to be hammered home.

next punch size up is too large
found my problem
I was delusional because I thought all saw nuts were the same thread size. Turns out it isn't so. I was also operating under the assumption that I had kept the saw nuts for each saw together and separate. It seems that I didn't do that neither.

I will have to buy some saw nuts and a drill bit for drilling the holes for them. I was able to screw the handles on but 2 of them are spinning. The handle isn't loose but it is only a matter of use and time before it will be.

I think this will work well and I have to make the till to fit it
two squares mark the max length
almost 29" for the ID
Add a 1 1/2" for the OD and a few for wiggle room and I'm getting close to the 3 foot mark.

I'll have to make a new intermediate holder - the slots are offset
don't have to make a new one
I sawed the width wrong and when I tried to line it up on the edge it threw it off from the other two.

everything is lined up straight now
I glued the holders in place with hide glue. I didn't want to do that but I decided to do it for strength. After the glue had been clamped for a few hours I put some screws in them.

time to put the keepers on
1/4" set up bars
I used the bars to set the reveal around the lid. Once I was happy with that look, I penciled the four corners on the lid.

don't need much and I penciled these in lightly
1/2" set up bars
The bars are 2. 0457112394572383 frog hairs thicker than the stock. I laid the 1/2" bars on the pencil lines and marked them with pencil.

1/2" lines are just inside of the ends
The keepers I shot to be so that the pencil lines were just visible at the ends and the outside.

nailed partly
I still have to remove this to erase my pencil lines and sand the inside. The keepers are secured good enough to check the fit.

it fits this way
The fit is loose both side to side and top to bottom which is what I was shooting for. The side to side shouldn't change but the top to bottom might even though this is only 1/2" thick and less than 6" wide.

fits the same way flipped 180
For my use I wouldn't put a knob or handle on this. But this is going to be a xmas present so I think I should put one on it. I've got time to think of something.

one spot of hide glue in the middle
small bit of twist
I have never liked sanding things like this to level the feet. I have yet to be lucky and not rip the sandpaper or have it last without ripping before I was done. Planing out the twist is easy and there is nothing to rip.

making tiny dovetails
I tried to make a small tray to fit inside the box. It is deep and this will help divide up the space. My tails look like crap and I would bet a lung that they would be gappy enough to drive a truck through.

sawed tails with the LV saw and the LN carcass saw
I think  I was able to saw this with those two saws because it is maple.

the zona saw still gives me fits -  my tails are proof
First problem with the zona was seeing the cut line. Second problem was trying to keep it going straight. Third problem was the plate would buckle on me. The problem 4 to 10 were I couldn't see the cut line.

I had tried switching the plate around so that it cut on the push stroke but that made the problems worse. Especially the buckling. The zona did not like sawing on the push stroke. I set this aside for now but I think I'll try it again but I'll use the LV dovetail saw.

prepping the stock for the saw till
That mark is the maximum height I need on the inside. I did the same to get the length.

made a change in plans
I am going to use most of the width of the stock. The lid can be used to stow saws too that may be acquired in the future. I will saw off that red knot because it will be nothing but trouble.

a tiny bit left - but it's solid
raised a sweat
It's been a little while since I ripped this much wood.

flattening the stock
There is a small bow and cup in this. All I plan on doing it removing that and making one face flat and straight. This board isn't rocking at the corners so I know it isn't twisted.

board #2 had less bow and cup
I didn't think this would have any twist but it did. After the planing the rocking corners twice and still not removing it, I checked it with the sticks until it was gone.

ends squared and shot to length
ditto with the long sides
dovetail story pole
I made this for two reasons. The first was to see where the tails/pins are in relation to the groove for the top and bottom panels. I can bury the groove in one of them and I'll have to chop the groove in the other.

The other reason is to see where the lid cut off will fall on the line of tails and pins. I like the number and spacing on the dovetails on this board but I don't like where the lid cutoff is.

made a second dovetail story board
I increased the the spacing and decreased the number of tails/pins. The cutoff line isn't carved in stone other than I want it above the center of the height. I'm not overly thrilled with story board #2 but between the two I'll come up with something.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What was Red's inmate number in the Shawshank Redemption Movie?
answer - 30265

The Impractical Guitar Maker - Wedged Joints

Brokeoff Mountain Luthierie - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 12:51pm
Examination of the interior revealed the junction block used to connect the neck and body. The sides are slotted into the end block and held in place by wedges.

From A Detailed Description of an Early 17th Century Italian Five-Course Guitar

Tom and Mary Anne Evans, Guitars - From Renaissance to Rock, 1977

In making the body and neck of a classical guitar, the most complicated joint used is a scarf joint. The scarf joint is used to connect the headstock to the neck shaft, some makers use a more complicated "V" joint to connect the headstock to the shaft. Miter and butt joints are used on the bindings, but this is purely for decoration, bindings are used to cover simple joints. The guitar sides usually fit into slots cut into the heel block, I like to cut a wider, angled slot and use wedges to hold the sides in the heel block.

Anyone who has made a classical guitar with the help of the book, Making Master Guitars, by Roy Courtnall, should recognize this wedged joint. In Making Master Guitars the joint is touted by the master guitar maker, Jose Romanillos, he used this joint and a variation of it until he retired from making guitars.

I began using this joint early on in my journey in guitar making, it made sense. It is a strong joint and unlike cutting a narrow slot, it allows me some wiggle room in fixing how the side fits against the heel and the wedge against the side.

The wider slot allows me to clean up the saw cut that will be seen once the side is attached with a sanding stick, there is no need to see a gap between the side and the heel!

Once the wedge is cut, I put it in the slot with a "dummy"piece of wood that is the same thickness as the side. I then start to cut a kerf where the wedge and the heel block meet...

and continue to "saw kerf joint" the surfaces until...

I have a nice looking joint!

When the side is ready to be attached to the guitar top, all I need to do is to trim the wedge a little short so when I hammer it in the endow the wedge will be just shy of seating against the top. There is no need to glue the wedge in, it is a strong joint and the wedge won't go anywhere. If the wedge is glued then the joint is not reversible, a consideration if the guitar needs to be repaired!

Categories: Luthiery

8" dovetail saw Karelian Masur Birch - 200mm Zinkensäge Karelische Maserbike

Two Lawyers Toolworks - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 7:42am
Dovatail saw karelian masur birch 8" long shy 1 3/4 deep 17 TPI Zinkensäge Karelische Maserbirke 200mm lang 43mm tief 17 tpi Pedderhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12692353908068506678noreply@blogger.com0
Categories: Hand Tools

carrying saw till started.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sun, 11/26/2017 - 1:44am
The cart may have been put in front of the horse but it actually helped this time. I got some stock to make the saw till and instead of making the box first, I decided to mock up the holders for the saws. Doing the mock up helped me to discard my original rough till measurements. I would have been a very unhappy ex sailor boy if I had made the till first. The holders are going to require a bigger till to hold them in it. I'm glad I thought of doing a mock up first.

dry fit of the base before the till starts
The corners look good. They are even on the top and one is off on the bottom. I'll plane the bottom after the glue has set. I can't see the outside face but the tops and inside all look consistent.

the box fits
I'll take this because I thought I was going to glue the base around the box. This end here has a slight gap. I can clamp it out but it bows this and I don't want it pulling the miters apart.

turned the box 180
Another surprise with the box fitting in the base both ways. The gap is gone on the right and now it's on the left which means it's the box and not the base. I'll live with it as is and put it with the gap on the right.

sized the joints
While the glue was soaking in I went upstairs and balanced my check book.

box and base glued up
It's a wee bit on the warm side today and the furnace hasn't kicked in yet. It's supposed to get cold tonight so I will leave this be until tomorrow.

stock for the saw till
I still think I can get one side and one end out one board. That leaves the last one for the lid or an  extra if I use the 6mm plywood for the top and bottom.

something is wrong
I have both of the bench saws handles together. I want them to be on opposite ends. That way I don't need as much width and I can better take the saws in and out.

I made all the kerfs for the saws on the bandsaw with a fence. The only one that would not fit in it was the crosscut panel saw. I had to widen the kerf for that saw.

the holder mock up done
The width of the holders is about 7 1/2" and it was because of the unknown width that I decided to make the mock first. My rough measurement I guess-ta-mated was 5" for the saws with a couple more for the holders. I could make this thinner but I would rather have more room between the saws then less.

I've got to work on lowering the height
I can make a notch for the spines in the holder and that will drop it down some.

the dovetail saw is way too high
dropped over an inch
I can drop this one some more
the final layout
I need to get the handles for the panel saws done and back on before I do anything else. I need them to get a final height and length. The length is going to drive how far apart the two outside holders will be.

I was going to make another set of holders out of 3/4" plywood but I am going to use these. I plan on cutting some off the bottom to further drop the height more. Before I do that I have to beef up the holders because of the grain direction.

happy with this height
I can lower this another 1/2" to 3/4"
plan the same drop with this one too
back holder
One of the slots broke off and the other 3 are ready to do too. This wood is what is left from my old kitchen cabinets. I am going to glue a piece of 1/4" plywood to this to stiffen it and keep it from breaking off.

the last slot is cracked too
I'll glue the plywood on and cut the slots after it has set
I glued a piece of oak at the bottom where I plan on shortening the height. The slot cut will extend about a 1/4" into the oak. The front holder with a lot of kerfs will get oak glued on both sides and the back holder I think will be ok with one along with the plywood.

the base isn't long enough in the length
I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood oversized and I'll get the final length tomorrow. I will screw the base to the bottom of the holders. I don't want to glue it in case I change the number of saws or I have to fix it.

one coat of clear shellac
the walnut handle
This finish is coming off with hardly any effort at all. The scrapings are turning to dust and nothing is being stubborn.

ready for finish
Scraped and sanded with 80, 120, and 220.

I was going to finish both handles with lacquer but I switched to shellac. The lacquer was stinking up the whole shop. I had to open a window and use a fan to remove the odor. Shellac doesn't stink or at least not like the lacquer does.

keepers are ready to fit
I found a chewed up and gnarly looking piece of walnut to use as the keepers. A few minutes with a plane and they were done. There isn't any need for high precision on these two so I didn't go nutso on them. I'll try and get to this tomorrow.

fingers crossed - looks like someone flattened the back already
looked promising
I have a high spot in the middle to remove.

15 minutes later
I'm getting there and I just have to get the upper left corner. There is some pitting there and I'm hoping that it'll lap out as I finish flattening the back.

road testing my my new strops
The new strop is 12" long and the old ones are 8" long. The longer length helped with me not digging in on the return when stropping. I stropped a chisel, an iron, and a chipbreaker on this new strop and I like it.

needs a clamping strip
My old short strops have a rabbet on both long edges and that allowed me to set them in the vise level. This strip will be held in the vise and the wings will rest on top to the vise jaws, level and ready to use.

The strop was in the vise at a slight angle. I could tell because one corner of the plane iron was digging in more on one side than the other.

Called it a day here and shut the lights out. But before I left, I put another of shellac on the handles.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
What is the official 'bug' of the state of Delaware?
answer - the ladybug

Irwin Auger Bit Company How To Select, Use, And Care For Bits 1939

Toolemera - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 10:09pm

Booklet: HOW TO SELECT, USE AND CARE FOR BITS. 1939. The Irwin Auger Bit Company. Excellent coverage of the Irwin line plus tips on care. Check out a few of the lesser known types of auger bits.

Download IrwinhowtoPAM

Irwinhowtobits0 copy

Categories: Hand Tools

W. O. Hickok Manufacturers of Book Binding Tools and Machinery. Trade catalog and Letterhead

Toolemera - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 10:03pm

Hickok Bookbinders' Machinery: Bookbinders' Tools. Catalogue No. 88. The W. O. Hickock Manufacturing Company, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, U.S.A. c1920. From the famous Hickok Mfg. company, makers of bookbinding equpment since 1844, comes a rare catalog. Judging by the early electric tools, I'm guessing at a c1920 date, but it could be a bit earlier. Nearly out of business at this point, their products remain sought after by bookbinders.

Download HickokCatc1920 (1)


Letterhead: W. O. HICKOCK. Eagle Works, Improved Book Binders Machinery, iron and Brass Foundries, Wood Turning, Ruling Machines, Steam and Gas Fitters Supplies, General Machine Works, Keystone Cider Mills, Keystone Feed Cutters. Harrisburg, Pa, U. S. A., April 16, 1886.

To: New Urbana Wine Co... "Gentlemen: Have you old Dry Catawba wines and at what price per two or three dozen quarts." Apparently this was a thirsty bunch. W.O. Hickock is still in business as a machinery manufacturer.


Categories: Hand Tools

S. Hills and F. Richards, Planemakers of Norwich, Massachusetts. 1833 Price List

Toolemera - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 9:53pm

Price List : Catalogue and Invoice Prices of Carpenters' Bench, and Moulding Planes, Manufactured by S. Hills, and F. Richards, Norwich, Mass. Jan. 23, 1833. Before there were bound trade catalogs, the typical catalog was a single sheet price list of goods offered. Before the single sheet price list, the trade card often served... but I don't have one of those early ones to show you. Yet.

This is the earliest price list/catalog in my personal collection. It's of particular interest in that it's a plane makers price list from a lesser known maker of Massachusetts. To add to the interest, it was sent not in an envelope, but by itself. Before postage stamps were the norm, the sender folded up a piece of paper to a given size, wrote the 'To' and 'From' on the outside and paid for the service. In some cases, the recipient had to pay for the service.

This price list/catalog was issued by Hills & Richards, one of the many partnerships of the Hills bros', Samuel and Hervey of Amherst, Springfield and Norwich, Massachusetts. The Hills worked during the early part of the 19th C. Frederick Richards has been listed as a planemaker, toolmaker and hardware dealer. In the 1850 Census, he was listed as employed by H. Chapin as a toolmaker.

From the primary resource for wooden planes of the United States, A Guide to the Makers of American Wooden Planes, we have a brief review of these makers:

  • Samuel Hills: Amherst & Springfield, MA: 1830
  • Samuel and Hervey Hills, succeeding Hills & Wolcott: Amherst, MA: 1829-1830
  • Hills & Richards: Norwich, MA: 1833 (date now known from this catalog)
  • Hills & Winship (William Winship worked for H. Chapin, 1826-1832): Springfield, MA: 1832
  • Hills & Wolcott (possibly Gideon Wolcott, a planemaker who worked for Leonard Kennedy): So. Amherst, MA: 1829
  • Frederick Richards: Springfield, MA: 1833-1850



Categories: Hand Tools

Countdown on the Horse Garage

Lost Art Press: Chris Schwarz - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 5:39pm


Thanks entirely to Megan Fitzpatrick and Brendan Gaffney, the machine room for my workshop is on schedule to be complete by the end of the year.

It feels incredibly good to be typing those words.

When we bought the storefront 26 months ago, I almost lost heart at the closing. Lucy and I had fought like hell to buy the property – it took six months of wrangling with real estate agents and lawyers to simply pay the asking price for the property and be done with it.

Anyway, on the day of the closing, Lucy and I went to Left Bank Coffeehouse before signing the papers, and I went completely numb. Suddenly it seemed like buying a half-derelict lesbian bar in downtown Covington wasn’t such a good idea. Perhaps the building was even worse than the inspection had revealed (it was). Perhaps we would have to spend tens of thousands of dollars more to get it livable (we did).


Despite my sudden malaise, Lucy pushed me forward through the closing. At the end, I received a Captain Morgan’s Rum necklace filled with keys to the bar. Lucy went off to work, and I went to the bar.

I unlocked the front door and walked around, convinced I had made a huge mistake. There was so much work to do, I didn’t even know where to start. So I left the bar, locked the front door and went home for two weeks, refusing to even drive by the place or think about it.

When I finally came to my senses, I decided to measure the bar’s rooms so I could create a floorplan. I walked up to the front door of the bar to unlock it.

The door was unlocked and swung open.

Suspicious, I tiptoed into the bar and looked around. No one was in the bar. Nothing had been stolen or disturbed.

Curious, I began fiddling with the lock to the front door and realized that I had left it sitting unlocked and wide open for two whole weeks.

At that moment, for some reason, I fell in love with the neighborhood and the building. Since then I have been helped by old friends and new to demolish the beer-soaked interior and create a beautiful and traditional working space.


It’s been a hell of a lot harder than I thought it would be. But today, as we hung the first two doors to the machine room, I felt like maybe buying the lesbian bar wasn’t such a bad idea. With good friends and the neighborly people of Covington, it was starting to feel like home.

— Christopher Schwarz

Filed under: Lost Art Press Storefront, Uncategorized
Categories: Hand Tools

Moving Out, Moving On!

Paul Sellers - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 6:07am

It seemed a little strange this past week or two but progress is after all progress. I’ve spent last few weeks dismantling nearly two year’s of work with the woodworking school and then the garage workshop experiment too. Both have been part of our ongoing success in that for every hammer blow striking the nail […]

Read the full post Moving Out, Moving On! on Paul Sellers' Blog.

Categories: Hand Tools


Peter Follansbee, joiner's notes - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 5:05am
red oak

Here in America, we just celebrated a holiday called Thanksgiving. It used to be about over-eating, now it’s mostly about shopping for mass-produced stuff. I try to stay out of it. The other day I was reading the blog from Mortise & Tenon magazine, in which they asked the rhetorical question “Why would you labor at something you don’t love?” – I realize there are many of us who do just that, for various reasons….I’ve done it myself. Making a living sometimes requires that we spend time doing things we’d rather not do…

shop doors


above the bench

I am especially aware how lucky I am to work the way I do & make my living that way. I have great friends who have helped me along the way, a wife who doesn’t need all the latest gadgets and baubles (my kids would like them, though!), readers of this blog & IG, clients, and students in my classes who all help support my work. I appreciate it all, and am eternally thankful. I am unbelievably lucky to spend my days the way I do. Thanks, all.

I went out this morning, lit the fire, filled the bird feeders and took some photos. Now for breakfast, then I get to go to work.

“WS”chest frame test fitted


“WS” chest frame, mitered M&T shop from the riverbank


down river


from the riverbank light frost


Podgers or framing pins, a blog about timber framing and a place for handmade tools.

Mulesaw - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 4:10am
First of all, thank you to Sylvain for providing me with a link to a blog where you could see a drawbore pin for timber framing in use (a podger).

Second, I am sorry for the long headline, but I couldn't really sum up all this information in a shorter sentence.

Now back to some meaningful writing:

The link that Sylvain kindly found for me is for a blog of a company called Castle Ring Oak Frame. In one of their posts they had pictures where you could see the large drawbore pins that they call podgers. I instantly got exited and wanted to get some of those so I can start a new timber frame project at home.
Before going all wild in searching for those podgers, I thought that I'd take some time and browse through the blog.
I often find that when a company has got a blog it is mostly advertising in a poorly written form. This blog was completely different though. It is written in a cheerful way and to me it feels a lot more like someone who are so proud of their job that they would like to say: I might not be a self-made millionaire or a sports star, but I make timber frames that can last for hundreds of years - and I am having a great time doing it.
Oh - and they are using Roman numerals to mark the joints :-)

I doubt that I will be using their services to erect a timber frame, because I would like to do that myself, but I am pretty sure that I will read their blog and continue to be inspired by someone making timber frames for a living.

The name podger was new to me, and given that all the podgers used by the timber framing company looked the same, I thought that maybe they were available from new somewhere.
A quick search on Google, and I landed on another dangerous site.
Not the kind of site that will get you in trouble with the police mind you, but one of those sites that could potentially be the source of birthday and Christmas presents for years to come.

There I discovered the podgers (or framing pins) I was looking for, offset prickers, froes axes etc. all handmade.
The offset prickers I can make myself on the lathe, but I think that I will order a couple of podgers for Christmas.

For sake of good order, I am not affiliated with any of the companies, they don't know me and I don't know them, so I don't get any discounts or free stuff etc from them for this blog post.
But I like a well written blog as much as the next person, and I would think that there might be a person or two reading this blog that are willing to admit that they don't mind looking at a homepage with nice tools on it.

Categories: Hand Tools

French Workbench vs. IKEA TV Stand

Popular Woodworking Editors Blog - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 2:00am

Editor’s note: Eric first shared this post on reddit.com/r/woodworking and I asked him to write a follow-up article on how he chose his workbench from Workbenches Revised Edition: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use By Christopher Schwarz. (Which is 50% off at the time of this writing!) – David Lyell  My first workbench was an Ikea TV stand that we had put in our garage to save space in […]

The post French Workbench vs. IKEA TV Stand appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.

Categories: General Woodworking

xmas madness has commenced.......

Accidental Woodworker - Sat, 11/25/2017 - 12:32am

The radio station I listen to in the shop started playing  xmas songs 24/7 starting on T-day. Less then 2 hours after I got to the shop I shut the radio off. I must have heard the Christmas song 35 times in the period. I like that song a lot but playing the same song that many times by different artists is too much. And they never seem to play what I consider the more 'holy' songs. Such as Silent Night or Oh Holy Night and my favorite xmas song, The Little Drummer Boy. It seems like their song list only has 10-12 songs and I get tired of them after an hour or so.

I like listening to songs from the 60's and early 70's but those play stations are getting hard to find now. My favorite station recently shifted from these decades to the 80's. It is ok but some of the songs I don't like mostly because I can't understand the words. That is what I like about the 60's music, I can understand 99% of it. I'll have to find my CD player and play CDs until xmas has passed.

part of my Geek stash
I got two comments about salvaging the magnets from hard drives so I'm giving it a go. I have no shortage of them and this is just one pile of many. I am going to try and get the magnets out of the top drive which is a 80G Western Digital.

really teeny torx bit
I don't know the size of this but it is small. So small I can't read the size on the bit. The toolchest in the background is my electronics kit. This is what I used when I was fixing blood chemistry medical equipment. Customers were impressed when I came into the lab with it.

the hard drive controller board
I have swapped these boards out before and that was the extent of what I did with repairing hard drives.

lid won't come off
it was screwed onto the read/write arm
I have a lot of Western Digital drives and I'll remember this.

there are two magnets
The shiny half lunar looking things are the magnets. They feel stronger than the 1/2" round ones I used too.

no problem holding a 9oz hammer in the air.
I have the two magnets together and I picked the hammer up with them. I am impressed with the strength of these. Just wish that they weren't lunar shaped.

read/write arm
The Geek in me had to look at this.Those fine lines in the bent 'U' shape get a current induced in them from the two magnets as the arm moves back and forth across the platter. This is the first time I've taken a hard drive apart and looked under the hood.

what I'll use them for now
All these screws go to what is left over from the piano hinge I used on the square till. I stuck this on the hinge to keep it all together. That lunar shape would be hard to recess in wood for the squares.

bottom has set up
The 6mm plywood doesn't look that bad. If this was going to stay in the shop I would stop here and use it. Instead I'll use the standard angle block plane to hog most of the proud off and flush it with the low angle block plane.

how the lid will go on
I will put two pieces of wood (what I'm calling keepers and not these) on either end. They will be slightly less then the width and close to the ends. The lid has a 1/4" overhang all around so I have a bit of room to fudge with the lid fit.

mitering the base pieces

rabbet pieces
I found some scraps and I ran them through the table saw so that they were square. Due to the small size I didn't want to waste time scratching my butt figuring out which side fit where.

two in each corner and one in the middle on each side
this is a wonderful tool
This is so nice having a tool that saws a perfect 45 (on either side). The only gripe I have with it is the roughness of the face after it has been cut.

it is not happening

This appeared to be a good idea yesterday but in execution it was turning out to be a royal PITA. I've got 3 of the pieces mitered and fitted and I just needed to fit the last one. That requires gluing the blocks in the rabbets and waiting for it to set up first. I'm not happy with the fit of the blocks in the rabbets so I'm tossing this and starting over. It is doable but I don't want to expend the calories on it right now. I have to get this done sooner than later.

this is the way I should have done it
I have a lot of scraps  and this is 3/4" thick pine that I used. I ripped it to width and then made the rabbet. The last step was to run the molding plane on the edge.

easier to miter and fit this way
layout for a cutout on the base to lighten it up
lots of circles to pick
I picked the circle that came closest to my layout lines.

got one cleaned up before I had to kill the lights
I'll finish the moldings and the box this weekend and I'll start on the saw till.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
Who was William Henry McCarty, jr?
answer - the birth name of William H Bonney, aka Billy the Kid

18th Century Ligatures: Everything you might possibly have wanted to know. Or not.

Toolemera - Fri, 11/24/2017 - 6:26pm

Ligatures. The word strikes fear in the hearts of authors, proof readers, editors and printers. For those of us whose brains live in the past, ligatures are our daily bread.


Luckily for us, David Manthey published an excellent work on 18th century ligatures and fonts: 


The html version is less than satisfactory. Mr. Manthey has generously provided a downloadable pdf on that page. You may also download it from this post:

Download Ligature

If you pass this pdf along to others, please be sure to give David Manthey full credit for his work.

Till next, Gary

Categories: Hand Tools


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